I did a search , but didnt really find what I was looking for. Ive got 40' ford up front and a mid 70's gm 10 bolt out back. I need to get a master and the associated hardware ,residual valves (if needed), lines, hoses, Ect... So help me out, what size master, year/ make, r/valves?? line size? ECT. Id post a picture of my pile but I cant figure it out, HAHA. Maybe someone can post a couple for me? I knew I could count on you.... Thanks
10 lb res valve IF the master is lower than the wheel cyl. 1" drum/drum mustang or chevelle master 3/16 line is fine most important is what pedal setup you want for your "pile" lots of kits, eci, walton, or search for ansen pedals
i agree with what 53 said, and would like to add some ideas. buy a dual master cylinder! i am right now building brakes on my project, i am using a frame mount non boosted dual MC, disc/drum setup, so i am running a 2lb residual pressure valve up front (disc), and a 10lb RPV for the rear(drum) and an adjustable proportioning valve, but if youre running drum/drum, you shouldnt need this. (anyone, is this correct?) hope this helps! oh yeah, dont forget a brake light switch! (dont ask!)
Thanks for the info guys,I think Ill be ok. as for the pedal I was thinking of going with the swing setup that the hotrod company sells, The price is in my budget. waddaya think? Mike
josh is correct you dont need any valve with a drum/drum m/cyl they are built in the m/c ever see a 10lb. valve on a 40 ford or a 54 ghevy?
Not necessarily so. The front brakes do the majority of stopping and therefore need to have some method of supplying additional braking force there. Factory drum/drum setups accomplish this a couple different ways - one way is by using the approproiately sized wheel cylinders (bigger in front - smaller in rear) to achieve this brake bias other ways might include different sized drums etc etc. So to simply say you don't need a proportioning valve with drums brakes - is kinda right but also kinda wrong - probably better stated that IF you use the right combination of wheels cylinders matched with the appropriate drum brake set up (single servo - dual servo) then you CAN get by without a proportioning valve as the factory did so for a number of years. Simply saying you don't need one - is making LOTS of other assumptions. Brakes are really as simple or complex as you care to make or understand them. Actually they're simple but you really need to understand how each part works together with the rest of the system. Short of that you can get by by coping a factory setup, but you had better make sure you copy EVERYTHING. Brakes are one of those funny topics - some guys will swear they grabbed some junk laying around from seven different cars and when assembled will rival the best efforts from any of the big three - these guys must be way luckier than I am.
The old ford drum brakes are not self energiging....the rear are ... self energizing brakes plot a curve on the graph of pedal pressuree to braking to the road... ...the amount of brake force will be different unles you change to a lincoln or f 1 set up or econoline fronts ... to keep the rears from locking up you will probably need an adj prop valve
Just posted this up on another semi-similar thread. Call these guys, ask for Pat @ ex. 207 and explain to him what you are trying to do. http://www.mpbrakes.com/index.cfm
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