hey guys, just got this hot rod. it has BRAKE ISSUES! here's what the problem is. it has a HARD PEDAL.with no stopping. here's what the brakes are. rear; ford explr. 2 w.d. (drum). front; 12" buick alum. drums. does any body have any ideas, as to why it has a hard pedal, and won't stop. I know there are many threads posted about this, but, I would appreciate some input. thanks!!
What master cyl ? Fire wall or under floor mount ? What kinda car? What master ? Wheels cylinders? Residual valves? Pedal position ? Bell cranks? Tuna sandwich ? As you can see more info and pics will go along way to fixing this for you. A stiff pedal could be anything from wrong parts, seized parts, collapsed rubber lines, bent peddle assy Etc etc etc
You don't need to keep making new threads on the same question. You could have just added info to the questions we asked on your other thread. The front brakes look like repro Lincoln style (the Buick drums won't make much difference in the way it works). Answer all our questions about the wheel and master cylinder Inner diameters, the pedal ratios, and good pics of the screwy master cylinder mount you described before.
Hey guys, thanks for replys. Let's move on to another question? I have the 37 to 48 Ford backing plates. They take 12in by 2 in shoes. They are Bendix type. Does anyone know of a way to put automatic brake Adjusters? It currently has manuals. It's becoming too much of a job to crawl under there to adjust them.
How about you take those hubs apart and have someone predrill them for press in studs. Welding in bolts is no bueno! Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
By the way, when using an apostrophe in place of digits in a year, it is to take the place of the first two digits. For example, 1949 would be abbreviated as '49. The only time that it is to be antecedent to the last two digits is when it is subsequently followed by an s, i.e. the decade including and following 1940 would be denoted as the 40's. In the absence of the aforementioned s, an apostrophe antecedent to a number, or number denotes the unit of linear measure known as a foot, i.e. 49' is forty-nine feet. Your screen name is forty-nine foot bomb! That would make a pretty big explosion.
Just get bendix adjusters. Early to mid 60’s Chevy etc , but and adapt the kit That’s what I did with my 50 Chevy with 54 bendix brakes. Replace your wheel bolts! And what about the rest of your brake issues? If it doesn’t stop, what does the adjustment matter?
correct me if i'am wrong... but, I think what you are reffering to is replacing your HUCK brakes to bendix... as you can see in the photo, I already have a BENDIX style, i'am looking for AUTO. ADJUSTERS. i'am working on replaceing bolts! thanks.
Looks like 12" Buick drum brakes. What was the last year for those, guessing 1965? Look up parts for a '65 Wildcat or Riviera. There are kits but you still need the levers and star wheels. Do your homework!
You are a little bit confused, so let's straighten out a few things. You don't have 37-48 Ford backing plates. You have reproduction Lincoln 40's style backing plates that work like the Bendix style you mention. So if you need parts to replace the stuff you have, buying early Ford will get you nowhere. As mentioned already, some sources for the self adjusters are 60's Chevy brakes, and probably the Buick brakes that the drums came from. You might need to modify the adjuster stuff due to shoe width differences and maybe the actual holes in the shoes being slightly different, but you will be surprised how standardized the parts were across brands. And also as said above, I think the poorly performing brakes due to your messed up sizing/ratio issues will be a much bigger problem than the shoes needing adjustment twice a year (at the most). Why don't you get us some good pics and measurements of the components so we can help fix the big problem, instead of changing the subject. Hint: Don't be so thin skinned, or you won't last here long. Gimpy was just teasing you. Can't you take it? We've all spent time here trying to help you, and a little light heartedness won't hurt nobody. We've probably spent more time answering your questions than you've spent reading (and understanding) them.
No I swapped from huck to bendix THEN , I put self adjusters from a 60’s full size Chevy on them, easy peasy.
if you stick too one thing at a time you may receive help jumping from one thing {hard braking} to self adjusters will I feel get you nowhere there are people here willing to help but if you can not stick to one at a time you will be ignored do not ask about what tire pressure to run on a tire not mounted on a wire wheel rim then come back and ask if it matters left or right
You want it on a sliver platter too?? Your best bet is to give up, you don't have what it takes to research a relatively simple problem, much less fix it.
hey Bob I was having an issue so I put it out there see if somebody could help me. But a guy like you seems to be a real a****** I don't need people like you in my life.
And if I remember right 53-63 or so was the same shoe and spring set but different backing plates, so again . Googles your friend
Where is the rest of the info/pictures everybody has been asking about on this "no stop" brake system? But with the repop Lincoln fronts and the Exploder (hopefully the 10") rear brakes along with the right master cylinder (1" works good), proper pedal ratio (6:1 is a good number) and correct adjustment (including the anchor pin on the fronts) it should stop. So what part on your set-up isn't right? Before you and others condemn the the front hub bolts; take a look and see if the outer flange is threaded; pretty common with aftermarket (and sometimes original hubs) to tap the hub and secure the Buick drum to the hub with tap bolts and then tack them to that steel "washer" on the inside. If for some reason you still think you need to add self adjusters to the front brakes, look at the kits for a late '60's 3/4 ton Dodge; you will also need the hardware kit to get the springs you need. Don't forget to cut another adjuster slot in the left backing plate.
Thank you for a nice reply! ask for the pictures I couldn't get up underneath the dash to take a good one but it is a 90 degree master cylinder mount. There was so many mixed and matched Parts on this braking system. So I was finally able to get a little bit of breaking action out of it. So the next step is I guess I'm going to have to put a booster on it somehow. but I do want to thank all you guys for replying I guess I'm just not sure how you guys operate on here.
Man, do like I do, just stay in solitary confinement where it’s nice and safe, If you go out in the yard in general population your probably gonna get shanked, or worse.... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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