Just put together my HF bead roller and I think it is gonna be fun! I built a large wheel to replace the crank handle and I can see where the flex is gonna be an issue, I'll have to brace it up but other than that seems like a decent tool. Rolled a bead in a piece of scrap and it seemed to do a decent job. Now my question, what gauge material should I use to replace the floors in my shoebox? The roller says it can handle an 18 gauge capacity, would that be sufficient? I would like to go lighter if I could as I don/t really want to max out the tool but dont know if that would be prudent...thanks-
I used 18 gauge in my F-100. But you could probably get away with 20 gauge. I probably wouldn't go much lighter than that for a driver. You'll hve to have a seat brace for the front and back seats. Either the original or fabbed up from???. I used 1x12x18 channel for my front seat brace, and then built some 2" high stands from 18 gauge for the seats to sit on.
Just used the same tool to do pans for the 39. Use 18 guage. Mine have a bit of "oil can" after the beads were rolled and they are 18 guage. The seat mount stiffening is a must. I test fit my seat stands and with just the floor sheeting, the seat moves around alot. Be sure to brace the HF roller, its junk without it on 18 guage. You'll be beading everything thats not nailed down once you get the hang of it!!!
I think I have an idea for a triangulated brace that'll stiffen it up, I need to build it and let you know how it works. I have one of the kids in shop designing it right now-
[ QUOTE ] Mine have a bit of "oil can" after the beads were rolled and they are 18 guage. [/ QUOTE ] I kept having that same problem. Then I figured it out. I was tightening the dies down too much and stretching the metal with the flat parts. You can solve this problem by putting very little pressure on the dies. You will find that it still makes beautiful beads and you get a nice straight panel. FWIW....
so can I tighten the dies down until just before the flat surfaces contact the metal?? When laying out my beads, would the middle of the die be where the bead is going to start?? Sorry if these questions are obvious but I have only played around with the roller for about 15 minutes and don't have it here with me right now... I may have the kids make some door panels for the '29, what would be an okay gauge to use for those?
Dan, The required amount of pressure is sort of a intuitive type thing. I can't really explain other than to say, if you are warping the panel, there is too much pressure. Do a couple of test pieces and get the feel for it. Tighten one down too much to see what it will do. Barely put any pressure on another and see what that does.... As far as where the bead starts....Yeah, the middle of the die is the start of the bead. As far a guages go...I like 20 ga. but I have used 18 ga. as well. 18 is easier to weld because its a little heavier. 20 ga. is of course lighter and thinner. It goes through the roller easier. Hope this info helps.
You'll think I'm odd, but old computer cases are great sources of good floor material. I'd guesstimate they're between 16-18 gauge. Some thick stuff. The good old heavy cases, not the newer POS's.
I just got the new HF catalog in tonight and I think I will spend lunch there tomorrow..there is several things I think I am going to pick up tomorrow. Metal Chop saw for half price, crimpers $3.. and some electric shears for a good price.. since I am not going to use them alot they should be perfect for me...
[ QUOTE ] Harbor Freight has them on sale right now again for $89 bucks....haven't had any problems with mine [/ QUOTE ] I'm there first thing tomorrow. When I went to their website to find the SKU # for this roller I noticed that they also have their air saws on sale for $19.99 (ITEM 113-2VGA). I bought two of them about a year ago and haven't been able to break the first one yet...cuts finer than a cutoff wheel with no sparks!
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