I had a thread. Now I can't find it. Virtual building lessons for my 7 year old grandson. Now close to 10. I wiped off 2 1/2 years of dust today. Finished the templates for cutting out the floor. I had Eaton make a 36.5" X 2 " main leaf. More stability and a better ride. I will use about 4 more 37-40 leafs. I had the 32 Studebaker grille shell stripped of chrome. I will narrow it. About 1/2 " narrower than a 32. Then I will rechrome it and paint it but leave the surround chrome showing. I built a sprint car axle. That's enough typing for tonight. View attachment 5902618 View attachment 5902619 View attachment 5902620 View attachment 5902621 View attachment 5902622 View attachment 5902623 View attachment 5902624 View attachment 5902630 View attachment 5902618 View attachment 5902619 View attachment 5902620 View attachment 5902621 View attachment 5902622 View attachment 5902623 View attachment 5902624 View attachment 5902630
12-6-23. De- arched the Ford leafs to go with the Eaton 36.5" X 2" main leaf. I like the Ford tapered leafs.
Down under we are not allowed to chrome suspension components due to hydrogen embrittlement. But some folks still do and no inspectors say anything.
Progress on the front axle. I won't be using a Panhard bar. KIS. I use a low arch when using the spring for lateral location. I sand and polish the parts before welding. Sure saves a lot of $ on the chroming budget. And does a better job. For the heavy engine 6 degree caster. Level spring front to back.
The frame design dictates the shocks be mounted behind the axle but I like it better that way anyway. Much cleaner view of the front axle. 6.1 degrees caster. I mounted the hairpins inboard over that of a Ford axle to allow for more turning angle before the tires rub the hairpins. In stock 3.5" dropped steering arms. I will be changing to 1.75" dropped arms.
Speedway Motors 1.75" drop steering arms worked out great. I never use a store bought Vega mount. Took many hours to get the box mounted just right. 2 bolt bracket welds to the bottom side of the frame. Now I can gusset the engine mounts with clearance for the U-joint. Will only need a U-joint at the box and at the steering column. Notice how I narrowed the frame rails at the front for radiator clearance.
Almost a roller. 6 pin sprint car hubs for F 150 spindles. Shrink sleeve fit for inner bearing. Stock Ford car outer bearing. Cut back spindle for shorter hub. I found a seal that fits the hub and spindle. Stock Car Products 5 x 5 hat and rotor. Drilled for 3 pins and bored to fit hub. Turned used rotor. Voila, like new. Years of beating on the spinners makes them a little flatter. Work good on the front with narrower wheels.
Nance magnesium 6 pin wheels. 6 kidney bean holes with a gusset in between holes. Beat flat spinner. I will make a polished center cap.
I cut off the upper part of the water pump eliminating the thermostat. Two Aeroquip hoses direct to the radiator. Cools real good on my other hot rods.
Hope to use these 51 Olds 98 tail lights but move them up about 3" from where I mounted the 37 Ford tail lights on my 32 I built about 15 years ago. That is a Gibbon body. The Rats Glass body is LOADED with wood back there. I hope I can pull it off.
Narrowed the 32 Studebaker grille shell 1.250 " at the top and about 2.5" at the bottom. Now the sides are parallel and now it is a little narrower than a 32 Ford grille shell. To the Evaporust tank tomorrow. Then welding.
With 2" grille shell ground clearance on my black 32 I was able to get a 3/4" lower shell than stock. 32's look humped up in front to me. Custom built radiator. The Studebaker shell is shorter so with 2" G C I will be able to get the shell another 1" lower at the top. Much better flow with the top of the cowl.
I see you only running a shackle on passenger side front spring. I know some dirt racers used to do this & eliminates need for panhard bar. Do not remember handling reason for doing this. Nice build
Look close. My P U dead perch. My 32 dead perch [ welded up schakles ] and the obvious sprint car dead perch.
Spent an entire day fabricating headlight/shock mount combo. Headlights too high. Made a new lower mount for shock absorber. Spent another day making this mount. Top of headlight 21" off the floor. Lower than that only makes the grille shell look higher. I don't like the bug eye look. Headlights sticking out in front of the grille shell. Sold the Electroline and the E & J. [ I got to be different ] Will make my bullet headlights about 9" long by sectioning these biggies and using 1/2 " front of 7" diameter Dietz. I built 1 set like that for a BFF and a set of 5.750 " diameter for my Willys. I may use the smaller rare 820D park lamps not the more common larger ones. Not done with shock mount. Needs additional support of the shock itself.
The Jalopy Journal
