May 2011 Banger Meet Spring has sprung now drive'm

Oh man! That's good news, congrats!

 

Bypass the coil...... your mag no longer makes spark but the rotor and points still work Please read my post again.... or ask your Mag man to show you. I will only take him a couple mins

 

Whoops, even when I typed it "bypass" didn't spark in the ol' brain compartment.
What you said makes sense to me now.

Nevermind.

 

and now i have legal plates and insurance
yeah
tk

 

Is there a banger photo thread so that I can look at pictures of other builds? I did a few searches and didn't come up with one.

 

T rear spring with two leaves removed will get you "3 of drop in the rear. The T spring is "2 spring so you will have to add a "1/4 spacer to the inside side of the each shackle.

I bought my T Spring for $25 in Berthoud from a Model T guy there, Steve at Bert's model A has his contact info if you need it.

Check out my roadster thread on the HAMB for details.

Tex

 

Stovebolt
I imagine it should be set at 10 deg advance static, have some cloth covered HT wire coming, when it arrives I will set one up in my A and put the timing light on it. I have tracked down that full advance should be about 28 deg. I should be able to put a taco on the distributor and check the advance at various RPM. There are a couple of settings on the spring connection to the weights which I can try. I suspect I will need full advance at about 2000 rpm. I don’t have access to a test machine so I will give it the trial and error method.
I picked up no1 at the Bendigo swap $50, the other 2 at a swap in the Dandenong’s, $5 the pair, it easy to identify the right ones once you have one. I will keep an eye out for one for you.
Regards
Brendan

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=591239


.

 

Wow!!! $50 is a litle dear, as Fred Reugrok (splg) sells them for $40, but 2 for $5 - you really got a great deal.

I appreciate your gesture of looking out for one for me.

Mark

 

Check it out!

http://rides.webshots.com/album/90404002GZNDAk

 

I’m trying to do a little research on building a hopped up banger to drive on the road, hit the local cruise ins, etc. What I have is for a starting point is an almost fresh engine that is pretty much stock: Babbit bearings, .030 over, head and deck cut enough to clean up, and the ports cleaned up, but not hogged out, B model carburetor.
What I have in mind is to split the exhaust manifold, and build an intake so that I can run dual “B” carbs.I know I need to bump the compression and change the cam, but there are so many choices that I am seeking some suggestions.
Currently the car has the stock running gear, w/ 7.50-16’s on the rear, but I plan to get the closed driveline adaptor from CrazyDaddyO and put the t-5 behind it, and lighten / change the flywheel at the same time.
Is there still someone re-popping the Super Winfield head? I’ve seen Winfields for sale, even one that says its 8:1, but the pic of the chamber doesn’t appear to be the heart – shaped one. I don’t think I want the compression that high on this motor, but had some thoughts about unshrouding the valves and contouring the shape to play with the flow, all of which is going to take away some of that staitic compression.
As far as the cam goes…I don’t mind if the idle is a little rough, but not crazy. I know that the more duration and overlap the farther up the RPM range moves, at the expense of bottom end torque. How much is too much? If I move it too much, it takes away some of the advantage of the OD. The truck weighs about 2300 lbs, empty. I know some of you have played with multiple cams, just looking for opinions on what you liked on the street.
Thanks in advance
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I picked up my first banger powered vehicle a month back, and had it on the road yesterday for the first time. Had a ball.

 

Okay, this is for all of you guys always asking about jetting your 94's. Go to todays A Ford Barn and scroll down to dual carburetor thread. A couple of guys that have done it have posted some jet and power valve sizes.

 

Is amazing how much fun you can have with 40hp

I think it was some one on the HAMB that said
"Is more fun to go fast in a slow car then it is to go slow in a fast car "

 

I have a banger. do as I say........ or else

 

Okay, I'll take a shot at it. First, I wouldn't split the original manifold as I remember hearing one years ago and it sounded like a John Deere tractor. That particular modification probably had more to do with creating the term "Banger" than anything else. If you want a lot of noise go for it. Your choice though.
Dual "B" carbs would be trick and probably enough on a warmed over engine.
If you plan on running the 750's you should probably shop for some 4.11's. They work great with an overdrive trans although 1 st is pretty low. Ask CDO regarding ratio's.
As to the head, call Jim Gordon at Antique Automotive Industries. PM me for his number if you can't find it. He is/was the source for the repop Winfield heads. My choice would be a " Crows Foot". No need to worry about the "flow" just bolt it on.
I would contact Jim Brierley on this forum for advice as to a suitable cam. I personally would suggest one of his SU1R or possible a SU1A grinds, which is what I'm currently running. At this point, if you make all of these modifications, you might want to consider a pair of Winfield "B"' updrafts.
You didn't mention the ignition. I would suggest a "B" distributor as a minimum starting point or go to a FS. Top mounting magnetos usually will loosen up in an Aluminum head as they are pretty soft.

 

Thanks Bill. My idea for splitting the manifold and fabbing up an intake was to have the backyard buildup look. I know the T-5 kind of knocks that in the head, but 75% of people looking at it wont know the difference. I'd say at least half call it a T-model.
I have the B carbs, just need to get busy on the manifold. I think the Winfields are probably worth more than I'm willing to give.
Currently I'm running the stock A distributor, but I changed the plate to run late model points. I'm going to have to skin my ignorance here, I dont know the difference in the B dist, or why I should want one? I dont know the term FS. either.
Thanks for the info on the head. If I cant find it w/ a search, I'll shoot you a PM.
I dont think I'm ready to call Jim Brierly yet, he's gonna ask me questions I dont know the answers to! LOL.

 

^^^^
FS is a electronic
The B distributor has mechanical advance and a better cam for the points to ride on.
You can use the B dist. cam in your A to give a little better spark.
When you have your head and intake call Jim B. he will do the rest

 

.Rex A Lott

The FS is an after market dist. I would consider a Mitchell overdrive instead of a 5 speed. The overdrive will give you a six speeds. The cost is about the same. The narrow power band of the model "A" will be improved with more gearing. The big diesel over the road trucks have a maximum rpm around 2500. They have 18 speed transmissions so you always have the right gear for going down the interstate or driving up pikes peak. The Mitchell is a bolt in with not much work and it looks like it belongs in an"A". Mitchell also has transmissions that are synchronized and are available with different gear ratios. I plan to go with both the transmission and the overdrive unit on my "A".

 

FS distributes electronic conversion kits and new electronic distributors
The advantage of a "B" distributor or a FS is that they have a centrifugal or mechanical advance. FS will recurve the "B" for a better advance curve. They will also install their electronic ignition components in a "B" distributor or sell you a new distributor with all the bells and whistles. With the "B" distributor you can use the stock wing cap and fake them out. The "B" distributor in the thumbnail is a completely stock unit with the exception of weaker springs and slots filed out for maybe a little more advance

 

Just Plain Bill...
That's one really sweet looking engine ya got there.
What is that round thing just to the left of the rear 'wing' of the distributor cap? I thought at first it was the coil, but now i'm not so sure.
Thanks,
Mike

 

That is an electric fuel pressure sending unit. After I bought and installed it and when I complained they told me it wouldn't register accurately below 5 lb.

 

I left out another distributor that would make a good choice and that would be a Mallory. Sometimes you can find one cheap. Just make sure it is all there. You can buy a kit with springs and technical advice to sorta recurve them your self. The later ones, 25 or 23, came/come with a timing key to set the advance. This same timing tool comes in the recurve kit. I bought my last kit from Summit.

 

Thanks Bill.

Mike

 

STURGIS, I'm unfamiliar with the Mitchell overdrive- where should I be looking for one?

 

The mitchell is only synchro in 2nd and 3rd though so two of the gears are only useful from a standstill....a choice. Then you will have an effective 5 speed up and four down changes to use on the road. Depending on the overdrive ratio chosen, you may or may not have a complicated shifting pattern to keep the ratios in order . I.e The final gearing in first or second high may well be higher than second or third low .
Also does the extra unsprung weight of the overdrive in the torque tube affect handling? Won't matter to a resto I suppose, but with a hot rod I would rather have the T5 ...Mitchel trans uses some T5 parts anyway.
Address for Mitchell and more info found here
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23622

 

I'm not a big fan of torque tubes.

But unsprung weight? Ford handle? You gotta be kidding

Only thing old Fords have to do with handl'g is opening the doors!!

OH And closing them.......

I had a 35 Ford PU with a 327. Ford box, Zephyr gears and an open drive- line ..... this used truck driveline bits. So long ago don't remember more about the source. I am sure more than one of you guys do.

 

Ha ha, Hot rods were invented so that us poor boys could beat you
rich kids with sports cars !!
Everything is relative , I figure it is a challenge to get best handling, performance etc from basically stock configuration....i.e banger and buggy springs.

 

I only 'got rich' by beatin' guys that thought their cars handled........

Open driveline ...... single leaf springs and coil over shocks aren't expensive as long as the leaf spring doesn't break!

I've had that happen! Pucker factor and tuck-n-roll seat were better than a seat belt

 

well yesterday was the first day i could take the tub out for a real ride. (if you remembember last month it was smoking like crazy...still is) i drove it probably 50 miles. it runs real strong(even for it smoking) gps says 66 mph with plenty of pedal to go...... off to a picnic today with the wife and kid.
Also i installed a seat belt and pulled my helmit out of storage for the hunnert car heads up in 2 weeks
tk