Once again, I ask for your help & suggestions....I want to convert my 1936 Ford Pickup (Model 67) from Mechanical to disc brakes. Any suggestions as to a decent conversion kit and wether a firewall mount or under cab mount is best for the new master cylinder. While I'm at it...also, should I keep the old pedal assembly (for the under cab version) or get a new swing pedal for the firewall version. Comments?!?!
For a good kit that doesn't break the bank, IMO, the brake kits from ECI are top quality at a good price. hotrodbrake@sbcglobal.net. 860-872-7056
I agree with using ECI. Never steered me wrong. If you want keep a stock look, mount the M/C under the floor. Probably can use the old pedal, just mount the M/C so it will work.
I would sit down and figure out what you want at the end of the build. Then I'd make sure everything works together. Once the whole plan is fully researched, I'd have a pretty good idea what is out there and make sure the places I bought from had after sale service. Since you are here, I'd suggest looking through the alliance members and seeing what they have to offer. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?page_id=176
You understand that you’ll probably need to change wheels too. I doubt there are any kits for the wide five bolt pattern. Make sure your kit also fits 36 spindles as they are a one year only dimension. But it is easy to swap to 40 spindles which most kits will fit.
Call Pete and Jakes Great people! They have what you need and offer sound advice. What alchemy said too.... What are you wanting on the rear? This is a stock/original pickup?
I would take the easy way out and run the reproduction Lincoln brakes. You could probably even get the original wheels to fit. I would keep the master cylinder on the floor. Charlie Stephens
The disc brake kits work with 37-41 or 42-48 spindles, easiest way would be to swap a set of those on. For pedals, you can use a 39 Ford pedal assembly.
Your question doesn't mention what you intend to do about the rear brakes or if you want to retain the wide 5 wheels. The previous suggestion to use Boling Bros repop Lincoln brakes is a pretty good one; a set with 1-3/4" shoes on the front and rear with '37-'39 drums up front and the existing '36 rear drums out back would be a pretty good set of brakes and retain the wide 5 wheels. Also as mentioned a set of '39 pedals drop in pretty easy and 3 to 2 bolt adapter will connect a modern master cylinder.
As long as you don't mind changing to floater type hubs, if you use the old bolt on spindles disc brake oval tracks form the 70's to certain modern hub will go on early Ford axles. Most modern oval track parts are still based on the early Ford and Timken 3/4 ton floater that was used by Ford and Studebaker. I believe modern northeast Modifieds still run the same diameter and length axle kingpins as early Fords. . My bolt spindle set up, however I am sticking with drums on my vintage stock car build. The 10 Spline (full size) Q.C. is based on the old Timken rear. The rear on the top shelf is an early Q.C. using to left side Timken side bells The middle rear is a stock Timken rear (likely set up for oval track rear) The bottom is a Q.C. with modern aluminum side bells with steel tubes note the aluminum side bells are copies of the old Timken. "Modern" Oval track cars run aluminum axle tubes.
This is why I said to plan first. Mechanical to disc can mean adapting to original axles front and rear to stuff like the beautiful HAMB era rears shown to later race or rod stuff. What is the plan on the parts the caliper bolts to, and what wheel selection are you going with? How do they relate to the drivetrain and ride height? All of this changes what brake parts are used.
I assumed the OP was rather inexperienced based on the question. There’s a million different ways to do the conversion, and he probably shouldn’t be lead down a complex path. Guys who are new to old Fords should be taught the best and easiest methods before they spread their wings on complex designs.
I'm just gonna say this, discs on the back and power brakes too. That is really over-kill for a stock truck. Keep things simple as much as possible. Converting the front to discs is probably a good way to go, but you still need to convert the rear to hydraulics as well.
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