Projects Messing Around With an 8BA Flathead

Breezy point, Mn vs Florida Keys, tough choice.

 

It might be the lighting on #3 but look at the 4:00 position on the inlet valve pocket on #6...

Mid you, you have to enlarge the pic a lot.

 

Yeah,,,,,that is where I was looking at too .
I could be wrong but I really think it is just where some carbon has flaked off before.
Besides,,,,he needs to clean the deck area good before he puts the heads back on anyway.
I hope it turns out good for him .

Tommy

 

real men have the distributor stickin out the front of they're flatheads. it gives you more space too because the belts and pulleys are further out front to clear that funny lookin dizzy

 

Like this???? I picked this motor up a couple weeks ago. I’ll get to this one in a few months hopefully. Right now I want to get the 8ba running.





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I really hope not. Ughhh.


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Careful there, flatheads like hemi's can be addictive.
-Dave

 

Ha ha. Too late. I think I’ve already caught the bug. I keep pulling up videos of running flatheads & I just love how they sound. I could care less that they only have 85 to 100 hp.


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What happens if you have a crack from the valve to the cylinder if you don’t repair it. Improper combustion????


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You end up buying lots of "Stop Leak" and drive it for several years until it grenades. When I was in college in the early sixties I had a '52 that started burning copious amounts of oil. I pulled it apart, and it had a couple of broken pistons. I found a set of 7 new pistons at the local engine rebuilder that fit (they had been taken out of an engine they had just rebuilt when the eighth piston broke for some reason.) I found a matching piston at Carmichel's Junk Yard, and got a set of rings and gaskets from Sears. I honed the cylinders and put it back together. It got me through my last couple of years of college and I sold it to a friend for his little brother to use, after which I lost track of it.

That engine had 7 cylinder to valve pocket cracks. I did buy a lot of Stop Leak and STP during those two years. Flatheads can be very tolerant to this sort of maintenance.

 

Be very careful. In just a few years you can go from dragging home one flathead, to having a pile of iron that weighs a few tons.

 

Depends on how bad it is, but it'll keep you adding coolant, stop leak or both. If you leave it sit long enough it may seize up that cylinder due to coolant rusting the rings to the cylinder and corroding the aluminum piston. One thing is for sure. You'll have minimal carbon buildup in that cylinder, because water leaking into a cylinder and being turned to steam is a pretty effective way to remove carbon deposits.

 

Let’s not get too excited yet .
The guy hasn’t even got the decks clean yet ,,,and already being told he has a cracked block .

I just don’t see it,,,I’m sorry,,,,,but I’m gonna stay positive for now .

Tommy

 

Thanks Desoto. I’ll be home from work on Tuesday & s****e the decks with a razor blade (unless there’s a better way to get them cleaned up) I’ll also look for cracks, which I’m hoping there aren’t any. I know that’s asking a lot from an old flat head. I’ll also take some more pics to show everyone too.


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Yeah I know. Their hard to p*** up if you get them for the right price & their close. My wife gave me the eye roll when I told her I was going to get another old motor. Ha ha.


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When I had an old time automotive machinist look at the 8ba that I ended up rebuilding for my '39 p/u he used a small piece of crocus cloth that he used to check for cracks before I sent it out to be magged and sonic tested.

 

Got the decks cleaned up yesterday. It looks pretty good from my eyes. Might be a crack on #5. I honestly can’t tell though. If it is a crack it’s really small.


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Like I said before. I’m just going to run it how it is for now, so that being said should I clean up the pistons & valves to get as much carbon off as possible??? If so what would be a good way to clean it? Steel wool???
Thanks.


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I don’t really see it ,,,,I think you will be fine .
Try it and see how it goes,,,,,you just might come out fine .

Tommy

 

Well now that you've cleaned off the gunk it seems to have disappeared in both locations. Do a little more s****ing on #5 and look around the 5:00 position. I hope you don't have a crack...

 

Should I try to clean up the valves & pistons??? Or does that cause issues? Would it be a bad idea to run some sand paper across the decks???


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Since you said your plans were to put this motor into an AV8 Roadster, here is what I would do. I would be careful and remove the pistons and rods, clean them and reuse everything there. I would remove the crank and clean out the oil p***ages (on mine they were completely plugged up). Clean and reuse all the rod and crank bearings. Roll the block over and blow out and clean all the water p***ages (s****ing them with a wire helps a lot). Clean the oil pump and screen. That's the minimum I would do if it were mine. I'd take everything apart and clean it. It takes more time and you may ruin a few things getting it apart, but at least you will know it will run for a while and not burn up due to lack of oil flowing. I'd reuse everything possible to keep cost down, just clean it up thoroughly.

 

you can order a 3 part chemical crack checker, and check it yourself. Dynaflux crack check, non destructive crack checking. What does the valley look like? how much gunk in it?? and just what do you want out of the engine?

 

I would get that valve seat crack taken care of if you can. Get it pinned. I'm also concerned about that piston cylinder.

 

Do you absolutely see a crack? Because I don’t.


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I was looking at the original pictures and didn't notice that you cleaned the surface. But the block does need work done on it.
Spend the money to get the block baked and tumbled to get rid of the rust/scale.
But DO NOT take it Wayne's in Riverside. You just don't know what you'll get back from them.

 

If you're looking for a shop I used BMS Machine Services in San Bernardino.
1904 Riverview Dr # 101, San Bernardino, CA 92408
(909) 799-7770
Dave knows flatheads. Only trouble about having say just a crack fixed, where do you stop? Maybe ring and bearing it and surfacing the heads or block? New cam bearings and adjustable lifters? The cost can begin to add up in a hurry.

 

So after further investigation. I can 100% say that it is not a crack. It’s actually a small nick in the metal. I can’t see any cracks in any of the areas between the valves & pistons. The inside of the valley under the intake is actually very clean. No rats nests, no sludge, nothing.
What can I use to clean inside the valley??? I was thinking if I were to spray some kerosene or diesel fuel in there to clean it & then let it drain into the oil pan. After I could use a small Dremel to knock down any rough edges in the casting that would slow the oil down from draining in to the pan. Maybe do the same thing to the water p***ages???? What do you guys think????


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Thanks for this info. I’m sure it will eventually come in handy. I might give him a call tomorrow just to get prices on different things. Honestly at this point I don’t think I want to get too crazy into the motor. I don’t even have my frame yet to start building the thing. I might just keep tinkering around on it with the kids & have them help me get it to fire up on a stand. I’ll probably get the block upside down blow out the water p***ages as best I can as well as pull the pan & clean up the crank & oil screen like suggested earlier for sure. Eventually I’ll get a full rebuild done.


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No grinding please as you don't want any debris getting inside that you can't get out without a full tear down to wash everything out. Good luck!