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Metal Stamping/drawing

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Feb 22, 2011.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
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    Yeah!!! That's a really great example of what can be done for little money for precision forming at home or in the shop. Thanks for sharing!!
     
  2. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,980

    Dyce
    Member

    Some good information posted. I see simple curves in the peice with exception of the inside corners where you have alot of stretch. It help to make the inside radius of the die set smaller to compensate for springback.
     
  3. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,477

    budd
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    Attached Files:

  4. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
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    Good tip! I was thinking it was better to have the larger radius, but I could see how that could be a problem, now. Noted! Thanks!

    Budd: I just happen to have a BUNCH of old Hemi valve springs! Hmmm.... :rolleyes::D
     
  5. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,943

    CoolHand
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    I have done this in the past as well.

    Honda four banger valve springs work very well, because they are less than 1" in OD, so they drop right into a 1" counterbore.
     
  6. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
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    That's some pretty awesome input from Badshifter. Talk about good feedback on the whole point of this thread. Very, very cool.
     
  7. Dyce
    Joined: Sep 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,980

    Dyce
    Member

    Scott another way to get the area inside where the stretch has to be to tighten up on the die. You could clamp the peice in the press with the male die on top and a peice of hardwood on the bottom. Then make a corking tool out of plastic or wood and go over the peice while it is clamped in place.
     
  8. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,651

    badshifter
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    Trying to make up for being a **** to FNG Rat Rodders!
     
  9. Toner283
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,325

    Toner283
    Member

    You will probably have to play with the shape of the steel blank to get the best forming with the least folding/wrinkling. When you make the parts in stainless you will have to experiment with changing the blank shape again, stainless flows through a die differently than mild steel in my experience.
     
  10. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Thanks to everyone for all your input! What an awesome thread this turned out to be!
     
  11. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Ryan -
    I can see what I am looking at is well done, but I'm still not exactly clear on how your die set works. I went to the thread you have linked to this post and I'm still not getting it. Do you have a pick of the dies and the just the sheetmetal with the die detail? In the pic above I see the sheetmetal ***embled to the ****on housing. Is that correct? :confused:
     
  12. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,943

    CoolHand
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    Female die on bottom, middle plate on top of that clamps the sheet in place, male die comes from above (through middle plate) and makes the form. It's a drawing operation, just not much of one (less than 1/4" of relief).

    And yes, what you see in that pic is the formed panel with a ****on housing dropped into the hole and secured with its nut. I didn't have a pic with just the finished panel, and I was too lazy to go make another panel and take one.

    I punch the thru hole to the correct size in a second operation in another die set I made.
     

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