MG Lever shocks

I believe that to top up an MGA rear shock it must be removed from the car. How often do you top them up? If they need topping up, they need repair!

 

Thanks. Seems like if they need oil, they need service. If they were mounted upside down, will it cause a leak, foaming, or valving issues?

 

Worldwide Imports rebuilds these shocks to higher standards than original. They are well known in the industry.

Here is a link with a good comparison of lever shocks:

http://www.nosimport.com/shoxcatalog.htm

In addition to more HAMB friendly, we also have an Austin...




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I ran a set of original Armstrong adjustable rear shocks on my ex SCCA MGB roadster that I raced in historic road racing - they are rare but look cool and offer a small bit of tuning - they are pricey though, I sold a orig set for $1,200.

Check out Worldwide Auto Parts, the owner Peter Caldwell is a great builder and can convert stock Armstrongs to adjustable units, which work very well. I added his link below

www.nosimport.com

 

I used to be into MG's pretty heavily years ago and I used Apple Hydraulics for my shock rebuilding. I can also vouch for the quality of work from MG Limited as they are local to me. Just never knew they offered shock rebuilding. They do a great job on SU carbs, but thats for a different thread.

 

They are similar to a tube shock when it comes to positioning. You can use them to about 90 degrees out of position but they will get air in the pistons if to far out of position, just like a tube shock.

 

I run them on my rpu they work great although in the heat they do soften up so if you have someone rebuild them have them stiffen them up

 

THATS what I was looking for. Thanks.

 

Just came upon this thread. In case this is helpful to anyone, I'll p*** along my experience. Just after high school graduation, 1978, I bought a near-stock '40 Ford coupe (had a 283 bolted to the original drivetrain via Hurst adapter & mounts; advertised in the Staten Island Advance for $1,000; drove it home for $900(!)). It had completely original suspension complete with long-ago seized Houdailles. Once I was able to get those old crusties free of the ch***is, I remembered I'd heard about Armstrong hydraulic lever shocks from the backs of MGs. Wound up finding a rebuilt pair at a swap meet. When I got them home, I was amazed that: (1) when held in place, there were no clearance issues; (2) the lever arms happened to be exactly the right length and offset to place the ends directly above the stock lower link mounting location; (3) each lever arm's tapered hole worked just fine with NOS Ford shock links; (4) the two mounting bolt holes in the shock bodies lined up exactly where the Houdailles had previously been mounted to the frame. By far the cleanest, coolest path to hydraulic shocks I'd ever seen. Pro Tip: Though I never did it, I was told that you could use oil of higher or lower viscosity to tune shock stiffness.

 

Great thread. I've been considering using them on the front of my Model A project, mostly because the way they are mounted on the sides of the frame vs tube shocks keeping all the suspension bits low - as I have been also considering aero-ish fairing(s) on the frame horns that would be as wide as the mounts for the wishbones but would not be any higher than the top of the frame rails. But how much can they be adjusted with internal gizmos or by changing oils? Gary

 

As an insider on the ways of MG shocks (I restore vintage British cars for a living) , I can say that you can indeed put higher viscosity oil on the shocks to help make them stiffer. The right thing to do would be to put heavier valves on the shocks, which are available through a British parts jobber like Moss Motors and use the proper oil. They are very good shocks and last a long time
When I finally get to do a model A truck, that's exactly what I will be doing.

 

^ Thanx, good to know Gary

 

Check for clearances : I was going to use a pair of Armstrong shocks on the front of my stock height 'A-A' truck, but ran into clearance issues with the tie-rod ; the shock body that hangs below the frame was the problem, & I didn't want to rotate the shocks to clear(would have needed to re-drill the frame for mounting holes & to re-clock the arms for correct operation).

 

Never thought I'd see this thread again. I bought the shocks from World Wide, and had Peter fix them to the front end weight of my 32. They are GREAT. The holes line up the same as a stock lever shock. Really happy with them

 

I have used them on certain applications, these are Armstrong. It does make a clean setup.

 

Thanx for the pix, Marty. Safe to ***ume the arms come in different lengths, or not? Gary

 

All MGB rear shocks are the same . MG Midget/AH Sprite rear shocks are smaller in size, and are all the same for all years of Midget. IIRC Sunbeam Alpine rear shocks have a longer arm on them.

 

A word of caution, the ones I have taken apart are filled with fishoil! Like 50 year old fish oil. I cannot describe the odor but it'll empty a shop, don't get any on you as the EPA will come and bag you up for ****ysis. Just sayin.

 

Use them, love them and love the linear look(no big shock going against the grain on the front)
always used 5w hyd oil

 

How do you get the lever arms of these little critters?

 

Adjustable version.

 

Has anybody ever taken one apart? I've been trying to get the arms off one so's I can go thru it, polish the case etc bit I can't get the 'dadgummed' arms off! I called a rebuilder and thye want over $100 just to rebuild one! I've had the top off - watch the fish oil, horrific stuff that - and can see the 2 pistons etc, looks pretty simple if you can get it apart.

 

Hmmm...Just the thing to plastic bag up and send to them. (with automatic opening when received!)
Those guys need some 'specimens'.

 

Im also interested to know if the arm can be removed and clocked?

 

I wanted to have the levers chromed, they're staked to the splined shaft and even after grinding the staking I never was successful in getting them off. Maybe I needed to grind more of the staking from the face of the lever, they no doubt can be removed for rebuilding the shocks but I gave up after numerous attempts

 

I have some in the shed going for s****. I should get one out and give it a look see.

 

The levers do come off reasonably well.

You do have to grind, or mill, off a decent amount. I used a mill to get a nice finish.

Then I bought some bicycle seat post tube binders from a bicycle frame building supplier.
I TIG welded them on and cut a slit in the arms.

I can now slide the arms on and off and tighten the pinch bolt once the arms are on where I want them.

 

I have a couple of spare sets off a TR6. I presume they’d work as well?

 

No comments guys?

 

TR6 may be of the same design but a little larger.