Yes, it's an O T question by virtue of the year. My Son and a Buddy of his have been doing a re-wiring job on his car, and I gave him an ultimatum on making some progress on it. All of the wiring seems well, ( and I don't know wiring!!!!), 'cept for when we try to start it. It goes to the "crank" mode when the"run" position is selected on the ignition switch. Yep, it's firing and trying to start, except for the switch position thing, so to disengage the starter, you have to switch it off. They used a Painless harness, and I don't know of their dealings with them, (consultation wise)............I just know of their dealings( my Son and his Buddy), with ME! My question is: What do the positions on the back of the switch, ( terminal locations), correspond to, and where should those wires be routed to? The vehicle is a 67 Fairlane, and the wiring diagram he has is VERY hard to interpret! Looking at the back of the switch, there are 3 terminals and a center post arranged inside of the "bakelite" looking housing( which is "Y" shaped), and 1 terminal outside of the "Y", at the 4:00 position. Anyone had these symptoms before? Help a Brother out! I need his junk moved, so my junk can move IN! Plus, he being the Baby, I gotta' try and keep Mama happy as well..........A FINE balancing act to say the least Thank you much in adavance!
Do you have a test light or VOM? Should take a minute or two to quickly diagnose the switch/harness I can't remember crap anymore, but the center one "might" be the start term...
Nope, CRS strikes again... It is one of the outboard terminals of the group of three together Should have a "S" marking it The others should have an "A" & "B"
Check you wires at the solenoid. The two small terminals are marked s and i. If you have them reversed, it will turn over as soon as you turn the key on. The s is the starter wire that engages the starter. The i terminal supplys a full 12 volts to the coil bypassing the resistor to start the car, and disengages when you let off the starter. Same goes at the switch itself, s goes to starter, i to ignition. You can use a meter or light to check which wire goes where....
Thanks Gang....................We'll scope it out this morning before I go to work this afternoon.........If I can get his tired ass out of bed . As for the ignition switch, no letters or numerals on the terminal end of it. On the starter relay, it's the original one, and it works, but it has no markings on the small terminals either...................But THOSE wires are the first thing we swapped, and then we got nothing after switching those 2. Any other input , please? I'll have him on it with an ohm meter shortly!
" Resistor"...............Does / should this thing be sporting a ballast resistor, or a resistor wire? Yes, it's still the points type distributor. "Too many cooks ,spoil the broth".....................I have seen no ballast resistor, and as stated, they are using a Painless harness with about 9 million UN needed circuits!!!!!!.......................GRRRRrrrrrrrr! I hate wiring!
Update: V O M testing shows that the switch was tits up in the crank position, ( no continuity), so we dig a junk one we had from a different model Ford, ( of same era), it checks out O K in all the positions. Call the local N A P A to get a new switch: "Yep, we got one". My son goes and picks it up, and is swapping the cylinder into the new switch............The back, ( plastic / bakelite looking part), FALLS OFF IN HIS HAND!!! Thinking back, that's was caused the original burned up harness originally, is the "crimp" comes loose where the switch housing and plastic part are mated. Dammit! Off to N A P A tomorrow!
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