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Projects Mid Life Crisis 62 Vette

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by squirrel, May 12, 2023.

  1. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,684

    jaracer
    Member

    Not sure, but I do know that all used Y blocks are 312's.
     
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  2. 41 GMC K-18
    Joined: Jun 27, 2019
    Posts: 4,174

    41 GMC K-18
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "Perfection, cannot be rushed"
     
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  3. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,431

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I have Comp Cams Retro as well. Looking forward to what transpires because I’m really considering putting spacer’s in the lifters to get only .015” of plunger travel for the same reason.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2024
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  4. maybe use teflon paste? Is the boss big enough to drill and tap for 3/4” npt?
     
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  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used paste initially.

    I don't know, it might be. I'm kind of leery of making the boss thinner though, there's not a lot of meat there. I kind of like solutions that don't involve stressing this old manifold any more than necessary :)
     
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  6. miker98038
    Joined: Jan 24, 2011
    Posts: 1,308

    miker98038
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I ran the tap a bit deep in an intake once, and couldn’t stop the leakage. Since it was a Blue Thunder for a Yblock and already polished I sure couldn’t make it worse. Cleaned well and JB weld solved it. A bit of heat will make the epoxy fail (puff of smoke and a horrible smell) if you need to remove it.
     
  7. Any chance of finding a comparable sending unit in 3/8”npt? If so you could use a brass face bushing that will screw in deeper then add the new init
    A7C3C6DD-E124-4217-965B-F169C7A98EA3.jpeg 736C7508-4E37-465E-9CC9-B0E6629F27C1.jpeg
     
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  8. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,001

    tomcat11
    Member

    X3 for JB Weld and just past finger tight. Quickest, cleanest, easily undone.
     
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  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I need to drain it some more and spend some time cleaning....
     
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  10. You thought right!
     
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  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I glued in the temp sender, I guess I'll find out tomorrow if it leaks. Or maybe the next day.
     
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  12. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,871

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Always got .300 out of that trick with a pan to seal the carburetors to the bottom of the hood.
     
  13. Oneball
    Joined: Jul 30, 2023
    Posts: 1,245

    Oneball
    Member

    I’ve always found full roller rockers to be noisy.
     
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  14. That's what SHE said... :eek::eek::eek:
     
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  15. That and a full Krylon rebuild will do it.. :cool:
     
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  16. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 5,476

    bchctybob
    Member

    I was going to suggest epoxying in a bushing like Scotty pictured and going with the smaller sender. Been there, done that.
    Like some other folks mentioned, I’ve been thinking of building up the 327 I have using those heads and a modern hydraulic roller cam. I wanted to get the machine work done before our local machinist retires. Some local guys have similar reactions to their Comp hydraulic rollers, unexpected noise. I’m curious to see if you isolate the noise eventually. I was thinking of using a solid roller. You’re usually an old school guy, did you consider using a solid roller?
     
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  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a solid roller in Almost Funny, way too much racket for me to relax driving it!
     
  18. I have a solid roller in my sbc now but it replaced a regular solid before. So, I guess I must just be used to the racket. I have been playing with hydraulic rollers lately on the blown bbc at work and could get used to that setup too.
     
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  19. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,969

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    No experience with aftermarket rollers, but the factory rollers in the 86 Vette I had didn’t sound any different than a flat tappet cam. This was a L98 350, not an LS base engine.
    Where would the noise come from? As long as the geometry is correct, the lash is correct, there shouldn’t be any valvtrain noise I would think.
     
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  20. [QUOTE="squirrel, post: 15255125, member: 3595"

    I got it all together and went for a drive. I have to do some tuning, and it has some valvetrain noise, which it probably shouldn't with hydraulic lifters [/QUOTE]

    I also have a retro fit hyd roller ready to go back in the car, my research has suggested that the link bar might be the source of the noise. Makes sense.
     
  21. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    that could be. I still have some work to do to get it to run and idle well, then I'll do some listening with a hose and see if I can tell where sounds are coming from.
     
  22. MCjim
    Joined: Jun 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,163

    MCjim
    Member
    from soCal

    I like the sound of my flat tappet solids...
     
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  23. chicken
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 593

    chicken
    Member
    from Kansas

    I get noise from roller rockers on small Fords too, especially on modern cams with more aggressive lobes than the old performance cams had.
     
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  24. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 20,127

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Just tell people that it's the Rhoads lifters.
     
  25. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,574

    badshifter
    Member

    I have two small block Chevy’s with the retrofit comp cams hydraulic rollers, and they both make noise. I went through weeks of phone calls with customer service and swapped out half of them in multiple attempts to get things quiet. In the end I gave up. They are adjusted correctly, and I beat the crap out of them (especially the 302) and have for three years with no issues.
    They sound like solid lifters, not like an out of adjustment hydraulic lifter.
     
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  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's reassuring. Thanks
     
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  27. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did take a quick look, and added some foam on each side of the radiator...there's a pretty wide gap there. Thanks
     
  28. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,424

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I put water in, doesn't leak...yay!

    temp.jpg

    Went for another drive a few miles down the highway. Running pretty good, although I had to adjust the "slow" idle up to keep it from dying. Checked the timing when I got back, it has 20 initial and 34 total, plus vacuum, so I think it's pretty close. It did ping just a little at about 2000 rpm, I might want to add a little more mech advance, and back off initial.

    The valve train noise is there, it's not anything specific, just a sort of mechanical sound all the time. I can live with it, I don't think there's anything that is wrong.

    Feels pretty peppy.

    It only got up to 160 on my test drive, and it was in the high 80s. With the hood off. I put the hood back on after I got home.

    I'm doing some other stuff today, but I'll go for another drive when it gets warmer, supposed to be in the mid 90s.
     
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  29. chicken
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 593

    chicken
    Member
    from Kansas

    Good deal. If it has any vac advance coming in at 2000, might be able to tailor that a bit as well to control ping...if the can is adjustable.
     
  30. Don't know if I missed it but, how did you go about setting cam endplay? I was a little nervous about it so I bought this, I was able to seal up the cover then dial in the endplay with the adjustable cam button in the center of the removable o-ringed cover. This unit would be helpful with an adjustable timing set but I don't have one and my street motor doesn't need it.
    clo-9-221_jy.jpg
     

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