Mig welder settings.

I'm doing patch panels spot welding and I'm not happy with my results. What speed setting and what voltage adjustment is recommended?

 

What gauge is the metal panels?

 

boy... THATS a hard question to answer.
Each make of welder has different settings.
My buddy runs a company where they build fertilizer spreaders. SHip them all over the U.S. These big kind you drive, and tow behind a tractor. You can guess LOTS of welding going on there.
I asked this SAME question of one of their welders... THEIR welder was set on '26',.. and he said for 16 gauge metal I should use about 19.

My problem is my HIGHEST setting is only 12... so obviously that info was of no help.
I saw a Miller welder and it's highest seting was 60 or so.

SO be careful who answers the question,.. and make sure you compare apples to apples.
Might be best to tell more about the brand, make etc of your welder, and the highest settings you have.

I have a Snap-On It's a 220 volt. Pretty sure it's made by Lincoln (least I was told).. In any event it's a GREAT welder. I haven't welded anything like 16 gauge yet,.. been boxing the frame,.. welding in front suspension etc. All that "heavy" stuff. I weld on about 9 (out of 12 max) and wire feed rate is set on 8 (out of 10 max). I know I'm gonna have to turn it back quite a bit before I start doing body panels.. have to experiment and see how much.

 

We need more information like what do you mean by "your not happy with the results". What's it doing or not doing?

 

I have a Lincoln SP135 plus, and I use .023 wire at amperage C or D and wire speed 3 or 4 and adjust it based on performance. Generally, you need to use fairly low amperage, thin wire, and a "s***ch" technique with sheet metal. If you are blowing holes through it, you may have too high amperage (too hot), too fast wire speed (wire pokes a hole in the molten puddle) or too much weld time (too much heat build up). Make a little "zap" for a second. Stop. Move on down the patch about 4 inches, make another little "zap". Stop. If the weld sits on top of the seam like a half of a BB, then you are too cold. It should look like a melted BB: a slight dome to it, but definately melted. So, you go back and forth between too hot and too cold and less contact time until you get the perfect weld.

It takes a while to develop this touch, so try patching a floorboard first, or something where noone will see it, for practice.

 

Could you possibly supply us with any LESS information?

Set the wire speed sorta fast and the voltage just about right.

 

Gee Tinbender, That sounds like something my dad would have said did you know him. LOL. Gumpa

 

Funny ****! I was thinking more about "set the wire speed kinda slow and the voltage just about right" though. Perhaps you use a different tecnique?

 

LOL,,,how's it feel to be the FNG and get the **** blasted out of ya when you ask your first question. Not to worry,,,,you'll get used to it. I did.

 

I have access to a hugh bank of welding info and could research for you.

I need:

1. Welder used

2. Process desired: short circuit or spray

3. Type and size of wire used

4. Shielding gas used (nice soft C25 is best for sheet metal)

5. Metal thickness and approximate year of manufacture (new auto motive steels require different techniques)

There are new "higher end" GMAW machines out there that can be set up to automatically pulse.

On thin sheet metal you should be using a spot or s***ch welding technique and not let any heat build up in the panel or you will be chasing warps for the rest of your life. Spots are spaced an inch or so apart, s***ches are welded a 1/4 inch or so then skip another 1/4. After you finish one series of spots or s***ches, let the panel air cool then go back and repeat. Water or forced air cooling can add to warpage. Welding is all about the control of heat. Too much and you blow holes, too little and you have cold lap and no penetration. If you let a lot of heat build up in the panel the metal will expand and it is going to go somewhere (warp). It ain't glue. It can be ugly on top but you need complete penetration through both pieces of stock. A grinder can be a welders best friend! Grind and spot, grind and spot.

This may help with your learning curve: http://www.millerwelds.com/education/educators/pdf/mig.pdf

Good luck on your project! rev

 

I've got a 110v hobart handler. The panel that you access the wire feed with has a chart that gives you a pretty good start with the amp and wire speed. On patch panels I use #1, the lowest setting. It only has four. I turn up the speed a bit since I seem to weld better with it a little faster.
And yes, zap a little, move down a few inches, zap a little more.
A really good thing to do is try some stuff out on some s****s, get yourself all dialed in, then go to the car. It's all in the practice. Then theres the angle you're holding the gun, and how far away you are from the material too.
Get some s****s and have it. Good Luck.

gary.

 

On 20 to 22 gage metal I usually set the heat to 3 and the feed to about 3.5

But you're gonna have to guess what kind of welder I have!

 

Inside the door of the welder will be a chart showing you the manufacturers suggested settings. Start with that and fine tune until you are satisfied with the results. easiest way i know with the limited info you gave us

 

Regardless of the welder, wire size or metal used, this works.

Grab some s**** similar to what you are working on and lay down some welds. While you do this adjust the wire speed until it matches your hand speed and LISTEN. You should hear an egg frying. Examine your practice welds for good penetration or excessive heat and adjust your current accordingly. Then go for that frying egg sound again. You'll be ready to rock when you go back to the real work.

 

Just throw some Bondo on it.