Projects Mish-Mash Nash -'52 Rambler Wagon

Those transition areas are going to get, & be, interesting...
Marcus...

 

a little mini scoop /fade on each side..of hood

 

Moving in a nice direction there!

 

Yes, it will be challenging, and a lot of measuring, cutting. fitting ,etc. I have no illusions this will be an easy thing to pull off successfully, but, I am encouraged by the rough cut fit. I thought the match between the hood edges and fenders would be grossly different, given the two contours.

There were some faux (well, maybe they wee functional for something) vents in that location on the factory body, but I would like to minimize, or even better, eliminate, and additional surfaces in that area, so working those small pockets into either the hood or fenders would be ideal.

Thanks. I will admit I am starting to get a bit to far ahead, as I need to get the quarter panels permanently reattached so that I can properly align the doors, then establish some support structure for the front fenders. I need to buy some undercoating like so: https://www.wurthusa.com/Chemical-Product/Underbody/Stoneguard-Gray-1L/p/0892070201

...then apply it and paint the backsides of the quarter panels and inner quarter panel body areas before reattaching the quarters. I need to work out the rear quarter panel extensions (i.e., cut-off sections from the original front fenders) so that I can blend them in while the quarter panels are free from the body.

 

I used the shrinker to decrease the radius of this lower quarter panel extension piece a bit, which now matches the curve along the bottom of the quarter panel:





The other side will require more work, as I cut it off below the flange to avoid drilling out the spotwelds, so I will weld a new flange in place, matching the curve of the quarter panel.

It's time to figure out something for the rear bumper, too.

 

Nice work with the lower fender extensions!

 

Thanks, but, what you are seeing in that pic is the factory extension piece, with the top/horizontal flange intact, reshaped a bit to match the lower edge of the quarter panel. It's too short lengthwise to work, and the shape of the leading edge doesn't come close to harmonizing with the forward curve of the wheel opening, so it was time to start cutting and piecing things together.

Here's where things are as of 7/23/24:




The extension piece's top flange had multiple holes from where the spot welds were drilled out, and after some working, the flange was split in a few thin areas around the holes. I decided to remove the flange entirely, knowing the piece would relax and change shape again, but, I'll deal with it.

The left side extension was cut off 1/4" below the flange in an attempt to preserve the quarter panel's lower edge, so that side will need more attention, but at least I will know the exact shape and contour it needs to have.

 

MUCH better!

 

What a great thread! I finally went back and read from page one, and glad that I did.
Your vision is only exceeded by your skill in making it happen!
Amazing!

 

Thank you. It probably helps I edited out a bunch of things about which I changed my mind, but, that's part of the process.

I made a small amount of progress tonight, getting the extension piece mostly welded in place. Still need to make a patch, re-curve the lower lip, hammer out the low area on the bodyline from the backside... hopefully closer to finished by Sunday evening.



I mentioned this elsewhere, inquiring about the source vehicle, but I picked up this roof section today, as it has some great curves and shapes which might prove useful in the future. Got a nice shop tour and met a Ford nut, too, so well worth the two hour round trip.

 

The summer heat and more importantly, the night time humidity, have finally broken a bit here in SE WI, so I took the opportunity to sand down all the bare metal and coat it with etching primer, hoping to stave off any rust for the time being:



I started poking (literally) around the rocker panels, as I knew both previously contained mouse houses and there were plenty of rust speckles showing on the outside. Let's just say neither side passed the Ice Pick Test. Not a surprise, really, and fortunately the inner brace is still very solid, with some factory black paint still remaining, and can be left as-is. I am going to remove only the lower half (maybe two-thirds?) of both rocker panels, as the door sill (top third, if you will) section is in good shape. Looks like that pipe anvil is going to be built sooner rather than later...

Yeah, not "just surface rust":





Peeking inside the left rocker section, looking rearward and up at the underside of the door sill, through an access hole I cut:





Bottom edge of the inner brace, where it meets the rocker panel. Drain holes only work when water can flow:



Forward ends of both the left and right rocker panels. Both are solid, but will need some attention. Both areas will be hidden behind the front fenders, but now's the time to get them squared away:

 

Hey @In_The_Pink
This entire build thread, is NOT an exercise in futility, far from it, its more proof that
"PERFECTION CANNOT BE RUSHED"

You have taken on a project that involves some particularly complicated metal, and the end result is going to be nothing short of "KICK ASS"

Keep up the interesting and informative, creative, metal fabrication work.
Kudos to you from Dennis, for NOT choosing to go the automatic transmission route !

My mascot "STRUTTING LANA"
For one of my "DIETZ" art projects, highly approves!

 

I've been enjoying following along with this one, about a month ago I bought a '54. If you still have the original front fender emblems and aren't going to use them, let me know what you want for them, I'll buy 'em. Mine are missing entirely. If I find one of these things in any local junkyard for parts, I'll let you know. So far though, I don't know of any.

 

Nice detail on the girl. Ex-Trophy girl?
Marcus...

 

Yes!

 

Thanks @41 GMC K-18... we'll see how things progress before considering handing out any awards. There is still a lot of work to be done here.

@Squablow, I sent you a PM, but I appreciate you keeping your eyes peeled. LMK if you are looking for anything, too, please. I have been trading off all the stock parts I won't be using to someone in Campbellsport who plans on restoring his '50 Rambler, so I don't have much left anymore.

 

Or, acquire a 48" brake first.



Saw this homebuilt bending brake on fb marketplace, and it was even beefier in person than it looked in the two (not great) pics...let's just say I'm tickled pink to finally have one.

 

this is really an awesome project!! keep up the great work!!!!

 

Thanks, @carguy699.

I cut out a section of the LH rocker panel yesterday, and had a peek inside.

Looking rearward:




Looking forward:




A better look at the inner brace, still wearing a good amount of the factory black paint, which was nice to see:




Things looked a bit better inside the rocker section than expected, and all of the rust damage was contained within the curled under section-- basically from the 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock position, as it were. I cut out a 2" x 23" section, which measured .040" thick, so I need to get to work on the patch panel and get it welded in place before moving to the RH rocker panel.

 

Damn clean inner rockers. I like the bell'd speed holes in there. Stronger and lighter!

 

I picked up a second, '50-'52 style Uniscope gauge cluster, but the face is a bit yellowed/discolored compared to my original piece, so not much of an upgrade, honestly. To correct this, I picked up a '53+ style cluster, which I like a bit more, and as a bonus, it included a non-rusted lens retaining ring, so I should be able to piece together one complete unit from all three. I think I'll try to adapt the temp and fuel gauges to 12V and retain them. Fortunately my original plastic lens is in good shape and can be reused.

Original on left, second '50-'52 cluster in center, '53+ cluster on right:










I also picked up a third-hand English wheel Sunday, which appears to be an older Harbor Freight piece. Needs some tweaking and adjustment, and the dollies all need polishing, but I should be able to make it useful.

 

I disassembled the '55 gauge cluster, and removing the speedo needle with a piece of glass directly beneath it was not an enjoyable experience...the needle was on there tight. I managed to get it all apart and back together with no breakage, and while inside I swapped out the two indicator light tubes with the '52 pieces-- they should work as left and tight turn signal indicators now. I decided to leave the yellowed odometer dials in place and elected not to polish the clear plastic lens, either. There's one small scratch at the lower left, out of the line of sight, so, not gonna worry about it. The chrome plated bezel/lens retaining ring looks better after some chrome polish, too, so I'm calling it good, and it's ready to install.



I also picked up a 5'+ long piece of 8" diameter pipe to be the centerpiece (centerline?) of the pipe anvil, so I hope to get that made this weekend.

 

It took an extra week, but the pipe anvil is mostly complete. I still need to source a 4" steel post on the secondary market, but the main 8.75" and small 1.875" tubes are in place and useable for now. I got lucky and found two 36" long pieces of 2"x4"x1/4" wall steel tube, which I used for the legs. Nothing fancy, and definitely overbuilt, but if I ever need to bend a piece of 62" sheetmetal, I have the width to do it.

 

I settled for a 3" steel column to use on the pipe anvil, so it's now complete and ready to use...






...to form a new rocker panel section. The mouse house inside the right rocker panel left plenty of rust holes along most of the panel's length, and it was really crusty on the inside face, so, it had to be removed.

Outer face of rocker panel:




Inner face:




The support brace inside the rocker is still very sound, with some surface rust along the bottom edge where it meets the rocker panel:





I also re-constructed the area where the door jamb and rocker panel meet, so that is now a solid structure to build from going forward.



There were a few small areas, mostly under and around the door hinges, which I treated with black Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, and I still need to seam seal the visible joint at the outer edge, but ithe outside surface is mostly finished.

I also picked up a NOS set of Isky lifters (supposed to be for a Buick 215) and a new 3rd(?) gear for the T5:



Saturday I got around to making a new anvil holder for my English wheel, as the axles on the six other anvils were slightly smaller in diameter and a touch wider. I dug out a laser cut 3/8" thick leaf spring shackle from my scrap metal bun, cut it in half, changed the bolts holes into slots, cut off the old tabs, and welded the new tabs in place. My Lincoln MIG was definitely maxed out, but it's plenty solid, and the anvils all fit inside properly now. All that's left to do is clean up and polish the wheel and anvils, and it's finally ready to use.

 

I made a new right-hand rocker panel replacement section, and after repeatedly test fitting, tweaking, and re-checking, it's getting close:



I left extra material on the bottom edge to be trimmed off later, so it's just a matter of getting the bend angle and curvature just right everywhere. The pipe anvil has most definitely been put to use, as has the English wheel:





I also had a good lead on a '63 4-bbl Olds 215 which didn't pan out (too much corrosion), but I was able to acquire both the alternator (only used in '63) and power steering pump brackets:

 

Funny how the acc brackets are sure not the work of the engineers who wanted a lightweight V8!

 

Very true. The P/S pump bracket is rather beefy, but not a huge weight penalty overall.

Once I mocked the brackets up, I realized I need to use the 215-specific timing cover and water pump, as the later 300 pieces won't work. I think the timing cover can be reused, but using a re-man'd or N.O.S. water pump would be a better idea.

 

Seven hour road trip to the U. P. (Michigan), to bring home a near-complete '61 Olds 215 4-bbl engine.

 

Is it a runner?

 

I was told so, and was removed from a running car. Initial peek under the RH valve cover last night revealed some sludge-- not terrible, but not super clean, either.

I started tearing it down this morning, and after the intake manifold was removed, I looked into each intake port and saw this in #7:



It looks like the valve guide has dropped 1/4" or so. Hmmm, time to tear it all down.

Lifter valley was not pretty, but it looks a bit worse in the pics than in person:



Oil pan had no sparkles nor pieces of anything, just some silver sludge...which cleaned up easily:





Cylinder heads both look good, lifters range from "those could be re-used in a pinch" to "failure is imminent", and it looks like one of the rocker shafts was recently changed or removed:





I'm pretty sure that is not how you install a cotter pin. The seller did mention he had four of these engines at one time, so I'm guessing some parts swapping may have occurred and this one was the last of the four.

Cylinder bores have some scratches here and there, including a larger scratch in #5. Overall, about what I expected for a used 60+ year old engine.