Ford wide five hub/drums were waiting when I got back from a trip. I like the look, but.... UPS scale said they weigh 49 pounds! Seems like I read somewhere that one pound of rotating weight equals one horsepower. Don't know that the big six has that many to spare! Picked up a mustang radiator and Quartershift shifter. Shifter came without the C4 small parts, if you powerglide users kept yours I would appreciate them.
Setting rear axle in place was about all I got accomplished today. Had planned to set the motor between the frame rails..... but the xxx decided to flop off the dolly instead... lost four hours, an E-coil, and an oil filter. Was going to take a picture of the five hundred pound pig lying in a pool of oil, but left that to your imagination.
But that's the nature of the hobby, it's called racing. You waste your time and money transferring grease and dirt from old metal objects to your person.
Rainy day today, so not a lot is going to happen under the A-frame. But, I did overcome what I thought would be the biggest hurdle of the project. I spoke to the guys at Ron Pope Motorsports, and they agreed to provide a Vega pitman arm, remove the spline section, then machine it round... cheap! I may have lost my machine shop phobia!
Looks like more progress than there really is, but the C4 and 300 have been united, and are hanging in roughly the right position, I believe there's a C4 shorty kit in my future. Battery on the cordless impact quit while starting to change out motor mounts for fresh rubber. Frame mounts at a later date, after I check starter clearance. These wheels are Fenton 15 x 4.5 from ebay. Am I up to wheels plan D yet? I'll need a pair of tires for mock-up, but my wife needs four to pass inspection on her Nissan daily driver. Guess how that's going to work out!
You are moving right along with the mockup. I see what you mean about a shorty kit, that trans takes up a lot of room in stock form. We always new you Texas Boys did things in a BIG WAY, but you are also very fast at finding parts and laying them together. At this rate you will have a rolling chassis in a week or two.
http://www.flat-o.com/carproducts/shorty.htm and a manual valve body That will let the engine/transmission slide back about 11". You might be able to find a shorty powerglide, and a Ford to PG adaptor cheaper than doing the shorty C4 with a manual valve body (plus the PG will free up some more power). You can also find a C4 out of a truck with a 2 piece driveshaft, it won't be as short as the shorty kit, but you won't need a manual valve body.
I think I've reached the point where I need to add me to the mock up. I'm not sure a "shorty kit" would work without "shorty socks" for the driver! Some observations at this point: -I don't think I'll "mock-up" any more. I now prefer "full-scale-modeling!" -I think it would be a good idea to plan things like manual valve bodies, and shorty kits for the second season. This will make a first season more likely to happen! -Does the phrase "Please call for latest pricing" send shivers through your wallet? -Making it harder to hook up should make it more fun to drive. -If you can't guarantee the thrill of victory, you ought to add some anxiety about making straight passes. -Retracing evolution like this, makes it easy to see why the butt so quickly moved behind the axle.
Didn't get very far today before discovering that my spring perches are bent! Do you guys mess around enough with ride height/rake/caster adjustments to make it worthwhile to spring for adjustable perches? Is ten degrees caster a good starting point? I got the C4 mount/footrest cut and drilled, and motor mounts started, but I'm stuck until I get parts to set wheel base, then adjust and start tacking things in place. I'm still the leading bidder, at $1.99, for an old Mustang fruit jar master cylinder. I guess this day hasn't been a total loss!
I don't know how much the Flat-O kit costs but there's another kit http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Competition_C4_Atlas_Shorty/Transmission_Automatic and it's $475.00. A C4 manual valve body goes for $300 and up. For the C4 truck "shorty" I've paid the same for one of them as a regular C4 (just depends on where you find it).
Best price I could find for a C4 shorty was $2250! I'll be looking at a $250 short tailed C4 Monday afternoon. Hopefully, I'll reach a decision, and start to make progress again. Did I mention the problem I have with following "rabbit trails?" Motor mounts were a puzzle. The Ford mount has a single stud coming out at some random, unusable angle. The stud is odd, having left hand thread on the inside end, RH on the other. Used a section of 1 x 2 tube to adapt from single stud to 3/8 bolts. Removable 1/4 plate allows welding wihout frying the rubber. Everything is squared, leveled and ready to tack, unless the short C4 changes everything! New suspension pieces, and center steering adapter are due mid week.
Check to see if you have a "Pick & Pull" somewhere near you, our local Pick & Pull will sell any transmission for $75. Well worth taking a look. P-Dog.....
Price at our neighborhood U-pull-it is $115+ for a transmission. Last one I priced, a Mustang T5, was plus $200. Plus $20 for the lift, and $10 for the driveshaft cut. Plus "disposal fees," which I never got around to asking about. His cars are set bare rim, on a horizontal rim, on the dirt.... miserable access from underneath. The last three transmissions I messed with, I ended up driving converter nuts off with hammer and chisel... not fun in auto shop with a trio of transmission jacks and plenty of help, scary alone under a free-swinging motor/tranny, hanging from someone else's lift. The $250 short C4 includes a new converter.... I think I've convinced myself its a great deal!!!
Well, the short C4... wasn't. As I've demonstrated, I'm not the sharpest SDR in the bunch.... But, even I can read, " Automatic Overdrive," when its written in 1 1/4" tall x 1/4" high script, on the bottom of the oil pan, of a fullsize AOD!
I usually have my spring perchs with a 4" drop.. I set the castor between 9-10 degrees for ease of steering and the toe in between 1/16" to 1/8".. It always works for me.........
You've got that right. Spent the morning on the phone, and the afternoon visiting yards, with no luck. May get a call-back from one who "had some old stuff in a storage yard?" My first new car was a 73. The C4 I'm looking for was in trucks from 70 to 81. If I hear another sweet young computer operator say, "Oh Sir, We don't KEEP anything THAT old," I think I'll whack someone with my cane!
We're OFF THE HOOK! Have to find milestones to celebrate where you can! Need to clock rear axle, tack, then carry in to finish weld. Could have half a roller tomorrow!
The Jalopy Journal
