Mock-up motors???

I've seen those plastic, lightweight "mock up engines" in small block Chevy, small block Ford and 460 Ford versions, but does anyone make a 194-250 Chevy six banger one?

If not, I plan to make one myself using a stock 250 oil pan and a rectangular "box" made from thick sheet plastic. Include the motor mount bolt holes in the right locations and use that if I have to.

(Alot easier to wrestle a little plastic "engine block" in and out of the car while fabbing up custom motor mounts, if you ask me!!!)

But if there is already one available...even BETTER!!

 

If they are available,they are not cheap.

 

find an old cracked block, and torch and grind the insides out. Still heavy, but not that heavy

 

Heavy is good. You won't know how much the suspension settles with a plastic block. Besides, if it's light it'll probably be in one of your buddy's shops instead of yours when you need it.

 

I built a flathead from industrial hard foam. Scrounged some 2ft square remnants and carved out the dimensions with a hot wire.
Added extras with double sided tape.

Crude but effective.

Industrial foam comes in 2x2x8 ft lengths; I think a full length is around $200 but HAMBers dont pay those kind of prices!

 

You could also try and hit up a construction site that is using the hard pink insulation. glue the peices togeather and use a hot wire cutting setup to carve it down to size... hit it w/ some fiberglass and voila

Garth

 

wait till you see what that PINK stuff will cost ya..

 

Hack- do what us poor guys do- take a stick of 3/4"elctric conduit and some bolts -place the 3-1/2" by 7/16" bolts thru the mount stands [on a v8 car][reference from an existing car with desired v8] and weld a peice of condiut across the two bolts RT to L [ IMPORTANT-they are facing rear of car ] then in the center of that peice, weld a long peice rearward to the bolts stuck thru the tailshaft crossmember holes [weld to them too] then go forwards to firewall and bend a peice of bar stock around a pipe the same size as distributor cap. place it 1" from firewall where distributor sets.then weld a short piece of conduit straight up to this "strap" from the long center peice of conduit. I also added some 1/4' rod at frt WELDED to a washer [that bolts on the donor water pump pulley] and I welded a crank pulley to the front of extended center tube where the crank pulley ends up- also can run a rod to the left-[frt and rear] to where an exhaust manifold will bolt to the drivers side......it all costs very little and is very light and hangs on the wall nicely, when not in use........if I can dig it outa the pile I call a shop, I'll post a pic.........

 

By the time you round up all of the "COMPONENTS" to build a plastic replica for one time use you could have the mounts built using the REAL thing. You are going to have to have a hoist to install the engine anyway , why not get the engine in position and build the mounts?
Besides how are you ever gong to get the dimensions for the mounts, bellhousing, water pump/fan. etc. located properly or at least acurately enough to be meaningful for making mounts and locating things that have to be adapted. It sounds like a lot of wasted time that could be used to do the actual swap. BTW, you know I love you Hack. HAHAHA!!!!

Frank

 

I was reading the Rodder's Journal the other day. There is a feature on McPhail's chevy like yours with a 250 six in it. The article stated that they had to recess the firewall because the 250 was so long.

Seems hinky to me. I figured the 235 would be similar in length to the 250. It's hard to imagine needing to recess the firewall to make it fit.

Are you going to have to do that?

 

heh, heh,,, he said "mount"

Jay