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Model A/'36 rear question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jettwein, Sep 17, 2005.

  1. jettwein
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 179

    jettwein
    Member

    So I have a model A frame I just got today from Killer, and it's really nice. Brought it home and I'm having some trouble deciding how to set up the rear end. I have a really nice '35-'36 rear end w/torque tube, bones, etc... and it's stock, so it's set up for spring behind - which is what I was planning to run.

    The TT is obviously far too long to fit under the frame and I had assumed I'd need to shorten the TT - that's fine. What I'm confused on is whether to leave the bones attached to the TT or split them and move 'em to a mounting point on the frame. As you can see in the photos, there's a nicely (random luck) placed xmember for the rear trans mount that could have tabs welded to it to mount the forward end of the stock bones. Will this cause binding issues if I still use the TT? I would think so.

    Part of the issue is the triangulation bars that are welded in the frame that run to the rear of the frame. If I were to run spring over axle in the rear, the rods would tuck up just inside the frame bars perfectly. Killer said that he had built the frame for a model A rear with spring behind I believe.

    If I do split the bones and wanted to move them to the outside of the frame rails, what's the best way to alter the mount point at the axle housing to get the angle adjusted as they meet in the middle in stock configuration. Heat and bend? Cut off axle housing and re-weld at correct angle?

    Any thoughts on what I should do based on the photos and what I have? I suppose I could convert to open driveline, but seems a waste, considering how nice the rear end I have is - I really want to use it.

    Any thoughts? I'm sure someone has a magical answer!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. I am glad that someone scored that chassis, what a great start to a project... I swiped this pic off the board, unsure whom to give credit to...
     

    Attached Files:

  3. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    if you keep the closed driveline, the radius rods have to stay attached to the tube to work properly, theres no reason you couldnt shorten them too when you're doing the driveline shortening, just heat and bend a little and weld on a bracket for the front ends.
    closed drivelines are nice and simple...keep it like that!
     
  4. Killer
    Joined: Jul 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,569

    Killer
    Member

    man, that is a PURDY frame!

    :D

    Have the torque tube shortened, heat the bones at the axle and bend em in, shorten the bones to where you need em to be and relocate the front wishbone mounting lug to where you need it on the torque tube.

    sounds simple, huh?!

    BTW, that wasn't random luck with the k member... ;)
     
  5. jettwein
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 179

    jettwein
    Member

    I figured it probably wasn't coincidence. :) Sounds good. I found a place in LA that can shorten the driveshaft - they were the closest place I could find that would touch it. Odd...

    Thanks for the advice. I knew if I put this question up here, I'd have answers in a few minutes - the HAMB rules...

    So... detatch the tube from the rear end, shorten and bend the bones and move the mounting tab down the tube after it's shortened? How short can I make them and still have them be mechanically/structurally sound? It would seem that the sole purpose of the bones is to keep the TT square to the axle, while the TT's purpose is to deal with the, well... torque. Is this accurate? I'm sure the longer you can keep them the better, right?

    I guess I need the motor/tranny in the car to measure the amount to cut out of the tube, too.

     
  6. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    yep, yep and yep.
    youve got the idea.
     

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