I have a cracked head on a 1928 Ford engine. and need to get it and the distributor off. The set screw on the p***enger side isn't there, I have sprayed penetrating oil all around and have tried to pry it off with a flat screwdriver. But it won't budge. Is there something I'm missing? I don't want to break anything. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think the suppliers sell a puller for distributors. Probably better than a big hammer. Charlie Stephens
Thanks Charlie. I checked out the fordbarn and I looked at the distributor puller. I'll try again Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Stop! Pull the head first! Distributor has a groove that makes it very easy to break by even gentle prying, and distributor puller tool is expensive. You are pulling head anyway...get the whole mess offathere, drive out distributor from below with all violence directly against lower area of D housing. Ideally, use a deep socket or a piece of waterpipe to drive evenly. Use anti-seize when you re***emble.
I'm nominating Bruce as the best, most straight forward problem solver here on the HAMB. And yes, he did just help me out with one of my questions.
Bruce, thank you for the warning. That's exactly what I did. I left the distributor alone and planned on pulling the head and Distributor together. When I went to turn the motor over, it's stuck, so now I have it basting and trying to get it to turn and pull the head. That's just an update Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Update. I can get it to turn a little in one direction then it stops and gives a lot of resistance turning both clockwise and counterclockwise . Is this a broken rod or what could it be? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pull the head before trying to turn motor over. The dist could be jammed and interfering with the came. With the head and dist out you have a better chance of not doing any damage.
Also after pulling head, if resistance continues next diagnostic is to remove cam timing gear...ask how, it's not how you expect in there. A rusted up guide or lifter can stop things fast. If engine remains slightly movable but won't rotate, dis***emble it to find out exactly what is refusing to move. It's likely to be localized to one piston or such, and with care all may be salvageable.
If the head is cracked, I would take the get a bigger bar approach and not worry about it. The distributors are plentiful and can all be rebuilt. We have had some that took a good 4' Bar to get them out. Or just leave the Distributor in the head and pull it off as a single Piece.
Finally got some more time to work on it. The head was really on there so I made a puller I smashed the ceramic out of 2 model A spark plugs and welded a carriage bolt to it. I wanted to put the bolt through the plug, but that ceramic is really tough. And the final result Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I like the head puller solution. I am thinking you had one of the old steel gaskets. They rust and stick like crazy. Did you get the dizzy out?
Distributor is out. Still won't turn. Looks like I'm pulling the timing gear Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
'spinning wheels' . I'd pull that engine out and take it down for full inspection. With busted head , you may find that the block is not rebuildable. Hopefully it will be. But , all can more easily and accurately be evaluated with engine out and dis***embled.