Projects Model A Coupe Build- Rat Rod NO MORE

The top face of the frame rail changes elevation by 4"

 

View attachment 2815240
Rear curves and kick up also taper from 6" to 3
The gussets keep it from twisting while it's being welded. Since these are 4 pieces there's a lot of weld. The gussets get blind plug welded thru the cap too.
[above is a quote]

I am doing my rear kick up the same way. (I prefer the smooth curves versus the sharp angles) I didn't plan on doing the gussets. Have you experienced the plates tweaking if you don't use the criss cross gussets?



If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Whoa! Right on with the accordion sweep- mine's right at 4"





Ended up with this stance, though channeled.

 

Yep, it will want to twist up pretty good with out them. If the short side moves from square, it drags the shape all over the place. The gussets hold the short sides square and by doing that it keeps the curved pieces in line.

When youre finished you want it to think about it and have it look as if you carved it out of a solid piece vs some slippery bent up playing cards that got stuck together.

 

Dreddybear, so your is 4 inches Also? Man pictures are deceptive looks like 6 inches. Yeah I got your build bookmarked. I got the accordion idea from you thanks.


If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

31 Vicky, thanks for the insight, I was going to Clamp it to blocks of wood to keep it in place but I figure the plates are probably be better


If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I'm not a big fan of accordion pie cuts.
There's just soooo much weld and heat in one area.
I love smooth curves though and the accordion will almost give you a smooth curve, certainly more than a single miter cut will. But the single miter cut is much easier to control, measure from and less weld.

So here's how I get both - my my beloved smoothness and single miter cut in tube steel.
After the frame is basically finished except for cosmetics-
Lay out the smooth curve that you want 1/4" back from where you would like it. Then cut that part out. Hammer Bend up some 1/4 flat bar with the radius that you like and weld that in as a cap. You can also slice the cap from some scrap tube too. Usually works for just about anything, mild to wild and dissimilar sizes as well. The only limits are your ability to measure accurately, draw a smooth curve, and cut on your lines.

 

It the frame pics I posted,
the top is only 4" higher on the top but since there's a 6" tube it's 10" higher than the bottom.
Make sense,

 

Yes sir 4 inches on the nose. With that and a reverse spring and 4" drop axle it sits down there..

 

NICE! I was taking my time on the accordion welding it up. I was nervous about all the heat myself. I'd routinely cool it off slowly with compressed air. I may rethink my rear end kick with your idea of the pie cut then smoothing out afterwards.


If I was doin' any better I'd be twins!

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

A little more progress.
As you can see there is already a little kick in the frame held together with some boogers.
.
I will be removing it and replacing it with these smoother transitions.




I have yet to weld and smooth the outside edges. Another day.

 

Extreme example of a Z'd up front frame

 

Ha, yeah. That's an example of it looking broken. That's a sick car though. Wouldn't mind having that mill.

 

A little progress: the back of the frame looks funky but it's all part of the master plan.

 

I haven't posted in a while. I finished boxing my frame and built a k member of sorts and put it in. I'm pretty stoked with the results. First is a picture of the frame with the hokey bracing holding it square. It worked pretty well.





Now I will move on to the suspension.