I am in the process of doing my first chop. Giving my 31 coupe a 5" haircut. Got everything measured out and looked good. Took care to measure where the back window would be cut since I have seen others that don't get cut totally in the flat area of the rear windows and they end up with a kind of pointy look to them. Mine seem to have come out pretty good. After I laid out the 5" cut with tape I sprayed it with flatblack and then pulled the tape so I would have a nice crisp line to cut to. Did my cuts with a cutoff wheel and hacksaw close to the line and the filed right to the line. The cuts came out very straight and flat and when I set the top back on I ended up with virtually no gaps. So I think it is proceeding nicely. Now for my question. When I set the top back on, the windshield pillars on the top are wider apart than the pillars on the bottom. In other words the top of the windshield is wider than the bottom at the cut line. Do you just tweak everything to line up or do you actually cut the support across the top (behind the visor) and narrow it slightly. Curious what others have done. I think this probably would not be as much of a problem on a 3 or 4 inch chop. Anyway any input or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
Hey touchdowntodd Thanks for the reply. I understand the pie cutting for the width of the pillars themselves but what I have is the actuall width of the windshield opening. I probably didn't make myself real clear, sorry. Anyway I added a couple of pictures of the pillars from a front view looking at the windshield opening. Thought I put these pictures in the first post but must have missed them.
I would slice the top pillars and spread them to match the bottom. Anyone else have any experience with this?
Check here: http://www.donshotrodpage.net/Project-30/TopChop/Page02.html Lotsa detail and pics, but not too much detail about your exact question....
One of the pictures from donshotrodpage.net shows the top part a little wider than the bottom, but it didn't say what they did. Can you put one of those ratchet hold down straps around the posts and slowly tighten it, and pull the posts in a little, they don't seem too far off. I don't remember mine being that much of a problem. Also check that the taper is gradual and is even the whole length of the windshield post. Check your windshield frame for fit before finalizing anything. I believe the windshield and body are wider at the top than at the beltline, so it makes sense that you would need to do something there. Red
Check your windshield frame fit while you're figuring this out too. Bolt the gas tank/cowl panel in before doing anything else, or stuffs going to move enough that it won't go in... Don't ask how I know... :rolleye That may "spread" it enough right there. If you're keeping that top door hinge it's GOT to line up with the other two or the door will bind and bend stuff. I'd run a straight piece of steel rod through the three of them to align them and cut and narrow as needed, probably at the header.
Make a vertical cut with a cutoff wheel in both parts of the pillar. Spread the narrow one a little and close the wide one a little. Don't be afraid to use a wooden block and a hammer and smack things around a little to make em line up.
in the real world..they are called relieve cuts maybe they are called that everywhere else too? you just have to make it go..sometimes metal has to be forced around a bit to fit....
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36066&&showall=1 I'm no expert but heres my chop job.
I just cut the front pillars at the very top were it joins the roof, I had to reposition the top door hinge, cut a slot and redrill 3 holes.
I would start out with two relief cuts on the inside of the top posts. Only the width on a cut off wheel. Then put a small ratchet strap(1" wide or so) around both the top pillars, and hook it back to itself. Start ratcheting until things line up. I have done this without even making relief cuts. In the end it is such a small distance that you dont notice any sway in the outside if the A pillar once welded up.
Hey Rob Paul It's nice to hear from people that have done it before. Are we talking about the same thing? The model A windshield opening is wider at the top than at the bottom so when a section is taken out the opening that is left on the top is wider than the opening on the bottom at the cut line. The picture I attached shows how much too wide the top is compared to the bottom on each side, viewing it at the windshield. The difference in the shape of the pillars I can take care of no problem its the difference in width at the door jamb that might cause some headaches. I think maybe by tweaking it to fit I am going to end up with hinge alignment problems. Or maybe I am just over ****ysing it. I was going to just tack it in place in couple spots but maybe I should get the doors cut and re-hang them and start getting everything to fit that way Appreciate everyones replies. Jim
I chopped my Model A 4" and had to make relief cuts to get everything to line up. On the a pillars I just made vertical cuts and pulled them to line up. -oldrodkid
Spent a little more time fine tuning my fit and it looks like I should be able to pull the top in very easily like you guys were saying. I still plan on just doing a few tacks and getting the doors all fit up before I do any final welding. I really appreciate all the replies, Jim
WOW your timming is great! I was just looking at my car tonight and noticed the differance. I plan on chopping mine 5" The other issue I see is the back side windows. there is a differance of 1/2" there as well. All info and pictures aer a help. What about leaving out the top hinge? has anyone done this? Is there problems leaving it out?
Anyone on the top hinge being removed complety? Only if it can be a MooMoo So Maybe a double chop day at your house is in order.
That's exactly what I did. I then used a H.F. porta power to spread the bottom of the pillar. It worked really well. Used all three hinges and the doors work fine. Mine is also chopped 5".
Im not running the top hinge...and I cut some out of the top cross member to get the posts to line up...but that was with 8 in
Ok, sorry guys I have to bring this back to the top. I am tacking the top back on and I really don't see a way to get the hinges to line back up unless the top brace across the windshield opening is narrowed. I can pull the top pillars in to match the bottom pillars but then the door post is nowhere near straight anymore because the top windshield brace holds the top of the post. I am talking about the heavy steel forward door post. The outer sheet metal I can cut and tweak and make it do anything I want but I'm not sure how to make the door post straight with the hinge aligned with the lower ones. Any guidance or tips would really be appreciated. Thanks, Jim
I had to **** my top posts in a bit using a ratchet strap lining up the inside & rear portions of the posts, the front & outside portions are what I had to slit & blend, wonder if your header is bent, maybe from having something dropped on the roof at one time, is the wood still in, if so try loosening up the header screws & see if that helps align things.
i removed my top hinges And doors work fine and i also had to make vertical cuts in the posts to line em back up but everything went back together good jus my 2 cents
I had to recut a slot into the cowl post using a fine cut-off disk and re drill the holes for the top hinge. I approached mine a little differently in that I cut the door pilar at the very top were it joined the roof.. Get the outside parts of the pillar to line up (it will be easer to adjust inside the window and door opening) and then reposition the hinge on the cowl pillar.
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