Model A cross members and Boxed frames.... Is this to easy?

Lono---Whats happening?---Did you get the Vega box????

 

I've got my box, plate and goodies, but I'm away for a friends memorial service and wont be back till next week.


The first thing in que is to cut my bones to lower the caster angle ( I found the car to be positive caster rather than negitive. then it will be back to the box which I will work out ( as shown in the pix).

I found my drag link was rubbing before I left home so that will be numbero Uno upon my return next sunday.

Then it's hell straight back...

 

So the original ***le of this thread was... "Model A cross members and Boxed frames.... Is this to easy?"

Basicly.. the 10 cent review:

1) I posed the question

2) I got great feedback

3) I had the motor tube and chucked it aside

4) I ordered the proper Motor Mounts from TCI and new rubbers...

5) the TCI got here but it took over 8 weeks for the rubbers to show up.

6) by that time I had measured and tack welded the motor tube mount in place.

7) I measured and re measured.. and welded them in.

8) Brian ( I gotta thank you for all your posts) told me it wouldn't work.

9) I drank heavy for the evening

10) I mounted the box exatly as it needs to be and Brian was right... the motor mount tube is right in the middle of the universal.

11) I drank heavy for the rest of the evening

12) Before attacking the motor mount tube with a grinder to extact it I reviewed my options to... go right through it.

Yesterday and today:

So, I removed 1/8 of an inch of extra metal on the plate side of the Steering box, as well, I removed an additonal 3/16 off the plugs for the box ( on the mounting plate). This brought the box 5/16" closer to the frame (also moving the universal closer to the frame by the same amount).

I tacked the box into place following all the rules ( ALL THE RULES!!!)

I then cut out a radius out of the motor mount tube large enough to allow me to weld in a 1/8" wall tube into the open cavity of the motor mount tube, which was then tacked into place.

I reviewed the clearance for the universal and I have 1/8" clearance where it nestles into the motor mount tube. Once I centered it, I welded and strengthened the motor mount tube.

So yes, I have steering that follows the same golden rules as everone elses cross link steering but it goes through my motor mount tube. Rather unconventional I know.

So to answer my own question... "Is this too Easy?"
It can be done if you dont mind taking a lot of extra time to measure, measure and re-measure prior to trial fitting and farting around. I didnt want a short cut and didnt get one.

Did I gain anything from doing this? It does give the frame additional cross member support so yeah, I gained a little.

Now that it's in, its going to work.

Would I do this for a show car? I dont think so Billy!

Will it freak out the guys with the $60,000 rods beside me at a rod run? Yeah Baby!

 

A great weekend of knuckle dusting.
Got the motor and ****** mounted adn firewall pulled ready to focus on the channeling.

I started a webpage for some friends of mine who are pretty into keeping up to my latest projects. A couple of them needed some rod term 101 with pix so I pulled togther a page for them to have a look at what I'm up too.

I borrowed soem car pix to put in here so I hope the owners ( and HAMB) dont mind... if you do, let me know I'll pull them right away.

Here's a link if anyone wants to have a look see... http://izitreality.com/LOLONOBUILD.html

And here it is today ( 4 months nearly to the day from when I bought it). http://izitreality.com/set16motorin.JPG

 

Lono---I'm glad to see that you solved the steering clearance issue. It looks to me that your engine is setting back a bit farther in the frame than my builds---which is great for you, because it releives some of the"'crunch" around the steering box. you have built a very nice web page, and your build looks good.---Brian

 

Hey Brian, would you like to ****yze his supposed "Triangulated" rear 4 -bars? With the angles I see on the top links, I doubt he will get any limitation in side-to-side movement. The angle between the top bars should be someplace close to 90 degrees and it looks more like 15 degrees.

 

Good thinking on the engine mount tunnel...like Brian says the engine seems a touch farther back than usual.

Question: Whats up with the upper rear 4 bar links? Why do you have the bushings splayed off against each other???
Looks like a bushing killer to me!
Your gonna run a Panhard with that setup...right?
Thats NOT triangulated in that configuration so additional side to side thrust control will be needed.

You most likely KNOW that but it doesn't say so...not where I can notice it anyway...so I figured it worth a mention.

(Hahaha...ya beat me to it Smokey!

 

After looking at your website, I'm going to say you may need to re-think your rear suspension. The top bars in 4 link are probably not going to work very well. The bushing ends should be on the same plane. And they're not triangulated enough to keep the rear from moving side to side. You will probably have to use a panhard if you dont increase the angle. A good rule of thumb is a minimum angle of 40 degreess. I'm not trying to rip on your build. I'm just pointing out something that I think you need to address.

 

present angle is 35.... will have another look at it. thanks

 

Started on the channeling today. The desired drop is 5.5 inches. I'm removing the rear window ledge to accomodate for my height and for the upcoming 4.5 inch chop.

I'm jammed for space in my shop so I'll be building the floor hangers, then blocking the body prior to removing the floor. Then once its out, I can get into the subfloor prior to lowering it back down onto the subfloor for completion. It's backward I know... but hey, no space and I hate welding on my back!

 

Okay---I looked at the 4-bars. The front of the top 4 bar is 90 degrees out of phase. That will cause a serious bind in the system, and will not do anything to prevent side to side movement of the frame on the springs. You will definately need a panhard rod.---Brian

 

The reason for boxing is not just a function of horsepower, but speed also. The Model A frames are not known for their torsional stiffness and the more HP and the faster you go the more it will flex. you will feel the flexing going in and out of driveways as well as going down the freeway. Over time the repeated flexing can cause metal fatigue and cause the frame to crack or even break. Then you have a real problem. Box it, it will work better and last longer.

 

I hear you. I did box it.

 

With 5 cut off wheels and 2 blades, I got the floor out today. I've chanelled it 5.5 inches as planned. the rest of this week I'll focus on the subfloor into next week then get into creating internal body supports ( and panard) before lacing in the floor.

I'm pleased with the body height and after the floor is in I'll look closely at the chop prior to cutting.

 

i would box it, better safe than sorry

 

regarding boxing...... ITS BOXED!

 

The sub floor started. I've installed 3.5" ribs with 1x1 centers running parallel.
The next fabrication is to weld in gussets between the outside of the frame and the new 3.5" door ledge. They'll weld between the frame and door ledge and be the foundation for mounting the body to the frame.

Once they're in, the cross 1x1 tubes will be removed and the body lowered back into position and mounted with floor pannels.

*(I know it looks twisted in the picture... but its not, I think my camera is tweeked.)​

 

It's been a rainy day and I've had little motivation this weekend. For fun I slapped the headlights on with vise grips and mounted the rad for something low impact to do. I have to drop it by 4.5 inches and get the rad re-cored, but that's later this year.

Last week I completed the 1" X 1" ladder rails that go down the sides of the frame. That completes the subfloor and now I can move ahead with working on the Panard bar for the back and sew in the floor and mount the body.

There isnt a lot of firewall left as you can see so I have to pretty it up with some nice curves. I didnt want to reverse the firewall because I'll need what ever foot room I can get.

 

I got a great deal on these bomber seats. They show excellent craftsmanship and are going to work out just fine!

 

Its been a while since I posted and a lots been done.

I reworked a wirewall and flipped it. It didnt take so much out of the cab after all. I'm six foot and was a little worried about room being I channeled it 4 inches already an planned a 4.5 chop.

This weekend a buddy came up for a rod weekend. We hit a swap meet, chopped the ford by 5" and had time to cook and eat like pigs!

here's the latest.

 

So my original question here was can these

be used in a 31 ford.​

The answer is yes. They did have to be cut to fit the frame width and then a modification was made to allow clearance for the Vega Box steering universal (see below).

So, is it as pretty as other motor mounts....nope.
Was it as easy to install.....nada.
Did it work...yes.

On thursday I completed the welding on the roof and last night I got busy and "blended in" the very thin coat of All Metal just enough to give it a good dressing but leaving enough imperfections to make it look like old leadwork.

This morning with using flat and semi gloss rustolium, some brown ocra, and aluminum spray mixed with flat black I touched up the body work to blend in the chop.





Deadline is fast approaching. I want to be on the road at the end of June. ​

 

Looks very good!!!

 

​

Getting close to the one year mark. Last June 10th, my nephew Rockin' Vince and I pulled this out of a garage in Vancouver, B.C. and loaded up boxes of parts. ​

For those of you who don't believe in Barn finds... well this one was just that. A cl***y little coupe time capsule. The gentleman on the drivers side has owned it since 1958.​

In 1960 he pulled it apart to restore it. He rebuilt the original 4 cyl and ******
and thats as far as he got. That's about 90% wood dust on the body (not rust). He had taken the cab and flipped it on it's nose and pushed it into the corner to bolt his wood working bench to.​

After blowing the wood dust off on the way home, I took after the body with an 8" wire wheel to take off the major rust flates​

Now I'm getting down to the last nagging projects, wiring, rad, headers and alignment. Then it's off to get goverment blessing so I can put it on the road.​

This has been my first A build and man I've learned a lot and enjoyed it beyond belief. ​

I've started gathering the goods to start a 31 sedan now.​

​

I dont have any plans on doing the body or repainting. Anything that shines now will be all that's going to shine. There's enough paint left to keep people thinking..."if he'd only restore it!"​

 

Looking good, shouldn't be long now. I wish mine was there now! Next spring for me.

 

you can do the house renovations in the winter... just make some slight modifications.

After what you showed me, your project is way beyond mine!

 

putting along. I'm waiting for my headers and rad so I've been farting around with a wiring kit that's pure sh*t.
My ribs showed up and I've been fiddling around with other stuff.

Next week it's lube and oil time.

This weekend I'll sit back in the bombers and make vroom vroom sounds.

 

That's a cool little car!

Consider this- You probably could have bought a "done" one for what you have in it...but you wouldn't be able to say You did it yourself.


Suddenly, Money ain't worth a damn thing, right?

 

Bingo!

 

Wow it came out good. We'll be waiting on the maiden voyage and burnout videos so get with it!

 

Great build thread, thanks for posting.