Technical Model A distributor issues

Hey guys, figured I'd make a thread for this since it's become a project all its own. I am frustrated & about to turn this over to a professional but figured I'd float this question in case anyone can help me.

In my Model A coupe I have a 1928 4 banger. It was running great on test drives until one day it just quit. From the way it died, I ***umed it ran out of gas. I coasted to a stop, killed the ignition and checked. It still had gas so I restarted it, it ran for about 10 seconds then died again.

Ruled out fuel flow on the side of the road there and decided to just roll it home (less than a block away). Didn't want to push it into my driveway so I tried to start it again and it ran just long enough to get it into my garage. It has not run since then.

I deduced that I was not getting spark so I tried a new coil - figured I fried the 6v coil running on 12. No dice. I started to dig into the distributor. Decided the condenser had probably failed. I mentioned this to a friend and he sent me a rebuild kit with a new condenser so I just went ahead and rebuilt the distributor completely. I now have brand new plates, new points, new condenser, new wires. Still no spark at the points. Decided to put the old top plate back in with the original points that I know were just set. Still nothing.

I acquired the car as a shell with no wiring, so everything right now is temporary. The ignition circuit is all there is on the car, the generator is not even hooked up. My circuit is as follows.

12 volt battery, positive earth. Negative lead goes directly to the starter. I have a wire coming off the starter post going to a switch which feeds to the BAT post on the coil. The wire coming off the DIST post of the coil is spliced to the popout switch going into the base of the distributor.

For test purposes I byp***ed the switch and am running a test lead directly from the starter post to the coil.

I have troubleshooted as much as I know how. The coil is good. There are no bare wires shorting to anything. From everything I can see it should work. There's got to be something stupid I'm missing. If anyone has advice please lay it on me.

 

With the ignition on, do the points spark when you open and close them manually?

 

Nope.

 

Here is the diagram I used to guide my ***embly. Looking at it I realized I forgot the #21 fiber washer, but installing it didn't rectify the issue.

 

Are you using the "shielded" cable that screws into the distributor body?

My reason for asking is, that it creates issues when screwed in to far.

 

Ahh, the fiber washer DID fix it, I just put it back together wrong afterward. Back in business.

 

Is it throwing any codes?

 

The check engine light is on, but I can't find the OBD port.