looking at my engine options, hope this one will run, I have plans to build up a B engine need some good solid advice from you Banger owners , want to keep the stock babbit bearings and add the 3 Cs carb, cam and compression, need advice on what combination works good, I have a stock B complete engine, what comp. ratios a good one ? , Snyders sells a 5.5 and a 6 is there much difference? also whats the different cam grinds and whats a good one? , plan to build the engine myself just have a shop bore it and do the babbit if needed, and how do you stop the oil from leaking?, I have a few carb options, might even make a header, what diameter tubing is good for the header, , can you buy a thick header plate for the b engine and Ill bend up the tubing? I have a running A engine that may go it there while Im engine building
As for opinions on bangers, hit the July banger meet for definitive advice. Experts sat keep it below 6.0 for babbited bangers. I'm going 5.5 or so on my A unit. A B-spec cam is optimal as well. Carb options are all over the place, with most thinking a single 94/97 or dual 41/81 being all you can run effectively. I'm pushing the envelope with dual 94s once I get things sorted out. I've had a couple carb gurus tell me it's not only possible, it's practical. Love where you're going with this. I'm watching....
mo progress this windshield thing has a bend in it, would like to fix it but afraid it will crack or break, anyone have experience bending this back? would heat work?
Great progress! Just a suggestion...experiment with a shorter windshield. That one seems a little tall... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Im tall over 6' and this is Washington so Ill be leaving it , I too like the chopped look but Im more on whats comfortable and practical and also a older build look
6:1 is the considered safe limit for a babbitted engine. With that being said, I've found a handful of instances where guys with considerable knowledge on the subject say that they can safely live up to about 10:1 as long as the bottom end is sound and you don't abuse it. Here is the details on what I have going together. I have a 6.4:1 Winfield and a 6.7:1 Thomas head. I have a Thomas dual intake and 97's or 94's for it. A Mallory centrifugal advance distributor. I have a B cam, and am considering either a Winfield SU-1A or a Winfield SU-1R camshaft. I also have a red's header. At this point I am starting to get worried about the stock oiling system and will be making some mods there. I think the major limiting factor at this point is going to be the valves and ports. Hoping for around 70HP.
thank you, very interesting, my only experience has been with old used wore out engines, as a kid that's what I played with and when one would give out we would put another one it, actually its quite exciting thinking I will have a like new engine with a bit more performance, nothing on the radical end I just want something that will hold together and I wont have issues with it over the next 20 years , Ive modified many a car part over the years and found you better know what your doing and don't go over the limits if you want longevity and dependability, looks like a limiting factor will be final drive ratio, so bigger tires and different rear diff gears may be in the future , at one time as a kid we installed 900-16s on the rear to help woith the ratio, those tires were a little to much
Quote: this windshield thing has a bend in it, would like to fix it but afraid it will crack or break, anyone have experience bending this back? would heat work? The lower stantion is not tempered steel, and heat would lessen any tendency to crack, I'd try low red heat and a M-sized hammer or bending plier-pipe wrench. A greater design question is: plan the front frame ends, to NOT "scrub", if the spring/shackle were to fail. Shocks may prevent a bottoming out, but also the frame end shapes are worth visiting.
been lookin at engine builds see some with 4 intakes and 2 exhast, where would you get a cam to make that work?
got the front brakes all installed nice having good parts that just bolt on without rebuilding, started on the rear, the drivers side tapered shaft has some galling on it and dosent fit the hub snuggly so that will need attention , will be ordering up new axle keys
got all the brakes mounted up, now onto the linkage , looks like it will come out the sides , still mocking up
Charlie Yapp, The manufacturer of the Lion Speed head says 7:1 is ok for babbitt. Thats what I am running A 'cut down' has a dip in the doors. This was done to copy the sports cars that began showing up in the 1950s The Model B cam is more powerful than the A. I got a new, not reground from Bill Stipe. The A transmission is horrible. I use a fully synchronised 3 spd with overdrive out of a 1984-87 F150.
That might depend a lot on what part of the country you live or lived in. With the internet and tv transporting nicknames for stuff across the country or world in micro seconds we don't have the different names for cl***es of race cars or the local names for them that we used to have in the 50's when it comes to dirt cars. A cut down in Florida might have been a modified in Texas and something entirely different in Monroe Wa but still basically the same format of race car. I like that little A SJR, it reminds me a lot of the first hot rod I tried to build in Texas. Seeing the later posts ( I should have read the whole thread before responding) I remember my dad telling me about a "cut down" that he and his buddy built in the late 30's out of a 28 Chevrolet and seeing a photo of it taken with a box brownie.
For the street I think the 2 ex. over heats and crack the blocks. It does look very cool with the 4 intake tubes running into the block.
that's what Ive learned , but its cool, been working on engine, drained the water out of the oil pan, hooked up a battery and coil and got it to run, removed the valve cover and the #4 exhaust valve is froze up, not sure how to free that up, would like to do it without removing the head, if the head comes off I want to put a hi-comp head back on , need to find a used one of find out who sells a good new one, Snyder sells one but it looks stock , I want it to look aftermarket I would prefer cast Iron over alloy
Some times you can get the valve with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. Get the light in there and you will see the valve. Oil it up... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
--------------- Ditto on using the full synchro '80's vintage F150 3-speed OD ****** if you can. It would mean going to an open drive-line ('30's or '40's-something Ford pick-up truck rearend maybe) but the synchro ****** and the OD would make the car a whole lot more drivable and enjoyable. The OD would be perfect with the modified A or B 4-banger and a stock 4-something geared '40's pick-up truck rear too. Mart3406 =============
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