Model A Hinge Pin Installation

I have had a long term problem with door alignment and dove tail fitment and decided that it was time to resolve the issue once-and-for-all. The first issue was a small amount of movement in the door itself when I pushed the end of the door up & down.

So, I ordered the removal tool, S/S pins & a new door bumper kit. While I waited for the order to arrive, I soaked the hinges with Liquid Wrench. When the parts arrived, I was able to get the lowest (driver Side door) pin to release.

Question #1
The S/S pins have a knurled surface that is longer than the original Closed Car pins (see picture), I am concerned that it will protrude into the center (rotating) portion of the hinge and prevent the door from opening.

Question #2 The S/S pins are over size pins and I will need to bore the hinge to install. Is anyone using these pins and had difficulty after installing them? Can I bore the holes without removing the door?

Question #3 Since the door was only moving a small amount, and the upper & middle pins are very tight, should I just install a new original closed car pin and see if that holds the door tight before going further?

Thanks for the help
Paul

 

If you take the new pins to a sure enough store that sells numbered drills they can measure the pin and sell you the correct drill bit. Not real easy but you can drill the hinges on the door then the body.

 

I would think that if someone sold you oversize pins they would tell you the correct bit size for the pins.

 

I would grind the knurled part to match the old pin design. As far as question 3 I would try that first you dont have much to lose. once you drill out the hinge you cant go back. I just ordered some of these from macs but I havent got them yet. good luck.

 

You can actually play eith the door hinge more than the car side.I've drilled my doors way out to accept a poorly fitted body.I then cut the hinges off,, pulled the out and 're attached them.then welded the larger holes I drilled up Andre drilled back to fit

 

I wouldn't use the oversize pins if you don't really need them.. I had a driver's door that closed hard and took out the center hinge pin and the door pooched out at the middle.. Whacked the center hinge with a BFH and the door hinge realigned with the body hinge, dropped the pin back in and now closes like new.. Point being exhaust all efforts before drilling and modifying oversize pins...

 

I dont think poor door fit and dovetail alignment will be fixed by new hinge pins. It might be a start to tighten up the slop, but there gonna be more to it than that.

Rob

 

Can you be sure its the pin? I dont see a lot of wear on that. Tried to fit the new pin without reaming yet?

 

Thank you all for the great advice, after thinking about this overnight I came to the same conclusion.

I will get 6 replacement pins and just replace them as they finally pop loose and go from there.

As for the Dove Tail issue, the lower corner of the slot in each door has a notch cut into it where the dove tail has been contacting the door’s sheet metal. From all of the information I’ve read, the door hinges must be tight before attempting to align the body. I am getting near the point where I want to repaint the car and put in an interior but these last few details must be resolved first.

Thanks again
Paul

 

If you have a original Model A frame, it is probable bent on the driver side. Right where the rear motor mount was. Most of them are.

 

Alot of door adjustments on Model A's can be solved by shimming the body mounts, or tweaking and torquing the doors by hand.

 

this is a fordoor but the principle is the same. did this with my 31 pickup and fixed the problem.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/door-1.htm

 

Destroyed the pins when removing doors to cut top off in 58.
Replaced them with large nails.
Came in handy when I rolled A in school parking lot.
Nails fell out, doors came off to aid escape.

 

Don't use a drill to size the holes if you decide to use new pins, you should obtain a reamer to open the holes.

 

Thanks again for all the advise, it's great to talk with folks who have been down this road before.

By the way, my door belt line is also slightly lower (maybe 1/8 inch) at the door opening on both doors.

Hi Fatboy69; Thank you for pointing out the alignment procedure. I read somewhere that the hinge pins must be replaced (if bad) before starting alignment. Mine are not “that bad” but I was trying to approach this job logically. I already purchased the rubber shims (I was hoping I didn’t need them).

Hi George: The Model A’s Frame was boxed by the PO – It was level then but may be bent now, won’t know unless I have to rase the body.

Hi Rob: I do intend to raise the car up and shim the frame, if I can’t get the dovetail to center on the slot in the door (by the way, mine is hitting the slot on the top corner not lower corner, as stated above). The alignment procedure also mentions tweaking the hinges to get doors to square up. Mine don’t look bent but I haven’t put a straight edge on them yet. Can you elaborate on how to tweak the hinges (I’m guessing with a Big F'n wrench).

Hi Charlie: I don’t think I'm going to go to oversize pins, if the standard pins I ordered take all the slop out of the hinges but I like the reamer idea.

Thanks again
I thought you might like to see the Coupe under discussion, This was taken at Strangers last summer (my first Car Show with the Coupe).

 

I think your hinges are bent and the door has dropped. I would use a 2x4 board under the door to Gently try to bend the hinges back.

 

I'm lost you guys tell him not to drill out the hinges??? I've never seen an old A that the door hinges arnt worn out of shape. usually "egg" shaped!! look at them!! if they are worn DRILL them out! its been a few years but i think the drill bit came with the new pins. if not go buy NEW high quality bit. and buy a LONG bit!! to get in the bottom hinge. oh yea.. you may want to use the search here on the HAMB......HOW to get the hinge pins out of a model A. here's a prequill. tourch and wax. now let it cool till tomarrow. work the pin till it moves. now back and forth till its out. when you drill them out you wont get much metel, mostly rust. the the knerl on the new pins is longer than the original. because the hinge top is flared out from 80 years of use. support the bottom of the hinge and drive them in, only after you are ready to "set" them. because they don't want to come out again! now the belt line lines up better. there are lots of ways to line them up, you need to look at whats wrong with yours. one thing you could try is use a 1/4" threaded rod about 3 foot long, with the door off, slide the rod into the hinges on the body. it should line up all 3 hinges. if not.... warm them up and BFH now try the door if you still need more warm them up and use your BFH carefull, or your front gaps will look like ****. a little shim under the body and tighten down the body bolts. now its all easy till you try to replace all the rubber stuff in the door that piece that looks like a "8" with the U shaped metel clip is a mystery. you get that figured out i wana know