Technical MODEL A INNER CHANNEL BOXING PLATES?

I just posted about these on another thread, has anyone seen or used these inner channel boxing plates I've just started seeing on the market? A company called Code 504 is making and selling them.

Personally, I think it seems a great idea. I'd be inclined to hit the mating surfaces with some weld-thru primer before zapping things together, but other than that, if these are straight, they might be great.

Thoughts?

 

Looks good to me.

I've been thinking about doing the same thing with my 1928/29 Chevy Frame.

But have been thing about cutting the the horizontal sides of so the mimic half the width of the rail widt, to get a more OEM look.
Does the make any recommends for welding them in full, do a chain weld. I don't know what you call it, but like this.

_-_-_-_-_-_

 

They look like they would be easy to fit up and weld..

 

They do indeed look easy, and also like they might be a good choice for rails with pitting issues and/or crispy edges. You'd certainly know PDQ if your rails were wavy too.

As for welding them in, I'm really not sure. A chain weld might be OK but I'd be inclined to weld it up fully for a big power build.

I would probably be inclined to put a few plug welds in there too.

 

looks good, that young guy with the fusty frame should look into this. guess that's the other thread you spoke of.

 

I would think you could weld solid, dont think with the flange it would warp much. just don't forget to weld nuts on the inside before you close it up. you know for the body mount bolts.

 

I've considered this idea before. Glad somebody is making them now. Would potentially double the rail's strength.

 

The reason I want to only weld them half the way, chain weld, that's because that's how they do heavy frames for rigs and tractor trucks. Because they want the right amount of stiffness an flew.

They glue the two rail, in the joint, so that the frame doesn't rust out. Because we have ****ty weather and we use salt for our streets, when it snows

I would even when full
Welding, weld it in steps. Better safe the sorry.

 

That's why I was thinking of using weld through primer on the mating surfaces. I'd probably run some primer and coating down the insides of the tube once it was ****oned up after to be thorough.

As for chain welding, I think that is probably a separate discussion. The answer on these particular rails may differ from the consensus on the plate style boxing however.

 

If I wasn't so fare away, and don't have the right frame I would run them, they look just fine to me!!

Sorry for the threat jacking.

 

No worries, you're not going OT, you raise a good question.

These look like they're made on a heavy brake out of plate with a notch so they fold up with the right taper.

With a big and powerful enough brake, you could probably make something like these for another car, at least the straight runs of it.

 

Looks good to me & @ 150.00 pretty reasonable.

Making parts fit together like that usually end up sledge hammer tight or hot dog in a hallway loose.

 

Yeah, that's a reservation I have. In theory these are brilliant and a perfect solution for some frames, but in practice, on a frame that's seen 85ish years of hard livin, it might take some encouragement.

But at $185 all in (their eBay store has $35 for shipping, not sure about direct orders), I think I would be fine with making some adjustments and using my HAMMER OF ENCOURAGEMENT to get things all together.

 

The Deuce Frame company uses this process for their center cross members and I love them. I weld them fully and they need no grinding, so the strength is not compromised. We used this method on cl*** 8 trucks when I worked at GM. Getting them to line up on and old frame would take some time but not impossible.

 

great idea. really looks clean, probably a lot less finish work involved.

 

I installed a "flat" kit from Dagels. They went in O.K., but those look like they would be much easier. After seeing those I can't help but think of an 8 foot long chunk of rectangle shaped box tube. Now, run that box tube through a band saw to create 2 "C" shaped "frame stiffeners". A couple more pie-cuts out of those "C's" and they're tapered. Nothing wrong with just buying them though.

 

I think getting the nox tube to just the right width to sit snug inside the rail would be a challenge. Certainly not impossible, but I think it could be a diminishing return pretty quick in time and materials with trial, error, and cussing.

 

That is how I am going to box my modified 32 frame. But instead of welding them in I plan on riveting them in after I punch the boxing plates with lightning holes like a stock frame. Jim Ford

 

I've got the remnants of a couple of sets of Model T frame rails out beside my 28 or so Chevy frame that is going under my roadster that I keep thinking could box the frame the same way. Now I wonder how those from Code 504 would work on my 31 Vic's frame.

 

I wish these were avaliable when I boxed my frame. I cut my plates & stepped boxed my frame like So-Cal does. This would have been a lot quicker & easier. Bill

 

Box tube comes in 1/2" incriminates 3, 3-1/2, 4 up to 6" then it's 1"
At any point a dimension between those 1/2" or 1" increments is needed its a fabricated piece. Then to get the tapers you need to slice the box tube the entire length, remove the excess and weld it up the entire length, you'll not get tapers from "A couple more pie-cuts out of those "C's" and they're tapered."

No ****ing way you'd beat the 150.00 price even if the tube were free.

 

I like the lightening hole idea - I wish I had done it. I welded the odd (stock) sized 7/16" nuts inside the frame before I boxed mine. Some of them didn't quite end up exactly centered in the factory mount hole. Later, when I mounted my body, it was challenging to get all the bolts to thread in. Especially the front cowl bolts (not a lot of room for tools). In hind sight, I wish I would have run a 9/16" (or bigger?) drill bit through all the holes in the body to create some room for error. I eventually got all the bolts in, but it ****ed and should not have been that difficult.
If the lightening holes were big enough, and placed correctly, you wouldn't need to the weld the nuts inside the frame.
Don't forget the nuts for the forward hood latch or the running board mounts.......if needed.

 

Yeah, you're right....like I said - I bought mine.

 

I just ordered a set of these finally. Will update when they arrive and I start working with them.

I've come to the conclusion that I need to bring my rear crossmember in and kick it up, so I figured having the rear sections of these tacked in when I do a pie cut to do that will be a must. Then I'll likely tack that up and pull them out to weld on the inside. Will update when that's done also.

 

I unboxed the plates and started getting them figured out over the weekend.

I found they will need to be shortened, by design, which I didn't get to yet. I called 504 (the guys that make them) and they were very helpful with answering my questions about how they are intended to fit and confirmed that they are indeed left a little long on purpose.

Here's some pictures:

 

I bought a set as well. I'm going to use bits and pieces of them since I have a f1 crossmember modified to fit inside the frame rails. For my purposes they are perfect

 

I'd expect welding them continuously in in one shot might tend to warp the rails.
The design violates most of the recommendations here -
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/weld-distortion-detail.aspx

Item 6 (back stepping the welds ) may offer the best chance of success.

 

Dan, I'd say welding anything continuously in one shot is a good way to make a mess of anything.

 

Looks good to me. I think I'll get a set, too for my A framed T sedan.

 

I'm not quite sure yet where they are intended to sit in relation to the edge of the A rail and the round on the channel plate. They seem to snug up inside further than I had thought but I don't have them set inside the rails correctly yet so it remains to be seen. I may call 504 again when I get that far and ask.

I think they would be easier to weld in with the hump protruding from the edge of the A rail if not some of the flat. I'm probably going to bolt mine in for the time being until I settle that.