Hi All - My 16yo son and I are in the progress of putting together his first hot rod, and it's banger powered .. So things didn't go so well on the engine install, the rear mounts don't line up at all, and there is a significant gap between the block and the mount surface? Yes the rubber pads are in place... As a point of reference the bolt spacing on the block is about 2 3/4 and the mount is about 2 1/4.. Before i start hacking up and modifying the mounts, is there something obvious i'm missing?
In one of your pictures, you show the rubber vibration pad outside the frame, you do understand that they go inside the frame between the frame rails and the rear mount. Also the open end of the mounts face towards the rear of the car.
It's difficult at best to ***ist long distance.... I wouldn't modify the mount, but as stated, there is a rubber between the mount and inner frame rail then rubber and plate on the outside of the frame....and the cotter key holes in the stock bolts should be a clue when the castle nuts line up to accept a cotter pin... you may need a thicker rubber between the mount and frame... Bangers are fun....lucky 16 year old! good luck
Yes.. rubber is on the inside and the outside, with a plate on the outside as @winduptoy shows... besides the difference in thickness which i could definitely take up with a steel plate shim and or thicker rubber.. is the both holes don't line up with the block, and are a wider pattern on the block than the mount...
if your rubber pads are dry rotted you can pick up a rubber mud flap from NAPA for around $20 and probably make 4 new ones. A ratcheting strap could ***ist pulling the frame in during install.
Rubber is brand new.. Frame could be bowed a little i guess.. i could see pulling in the rails for sure.. However the bolt hole pattern and location between block and mount has me thrown... Unfortunately i don't have another A block handy to confirm , but i do have a couple other mounts and they are all identical..
the one picture where i put the rule on the mount and it shows 2 1/4, if i take the same measurement on the block the hole spacing is 2 3/4", and front to back it seems off about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch..
Is that a 32 bellhousing? If it has a serial number stamped on top it is. Maybe they are a different width than the A’s?
SO i measure about the same as you @winduptoy, however, i just noticed my bellhousing is a little different (see picture), i don't have that little ear that sits on top of the mount, bolts are pretty much just in shear... perhaps this is a weird bellhousing.. @alchemy - no serial numbes on top (or that i can find)..
ah... maybe it's a B bellhousing? it's definitely an A motor, based on water pump and other attributes.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/257247761518 hopefully this isn't turning into a mess lol
New pads are cheap from A suppliers. Some people have the opposite problem and need to jack the frame rails apart to get the engine in. Put the mounts on the engine then pull the frame together as you tighten the bolts.
great idea @29Sleeper , however that reveals the other problem, bolt holes don't match.. it this listing is to be believed, it's a model B bellhousing..
Exactly, I had to spread my frame with the jack to install the supports with the rubber. Here they are without the rubber bands, but this is how they should fit. Greetings Harald
Is your bellhousing a full circle of just top half? If half it’s a 32. If full it’s an A. Parts can be swapped, but there are a few things that need modification. Is the engine an A or B? Is there a fuel pump on the lower right side?
2 different animals - the B is much different Yes that is a B the serial number pad is also a give away. Easiest way out is to find a local guy that has an A one. $10-20 even here in LA. There are 4 MAFCA chapters in IA - https://mafca.com/chapters/
Nope.. no fuel pump @alchemy .. A style water pump too - but check the oil pan, and your right the bellhousing is a semi-circle - what the heck is going on here?... . see pics I guess my next logical question is whether my A trans is going to work. :sob:
yip.. thanks all... Appreciate your help everyone! I guess one final question - A trans will work? Haven't tried bolting up yet but it looks like it will...
I can't answer about an A transmission on a B housing.....I guess you are going to let us know.... ... on a B, anti chatter rods attached to where the A housing bolts to the frame and the transmission was the rear mount...and the '32 got an X member the flywheel housing on the A actually functions as a crossmember ..... a consideration in your bolt up...however you go... In a p***ing moment, I looked at installing a B pan on an A but byp***ed the thought because the rear of the pan has a larger dimension radius, where the oil pan lip seals to the rear main cap, due to the larger diameter crank journal...you might want to take a good look at this area to see how it is addressed on your set up. The A stock oil pan, flywheel housing, bellhousing and transmission allows you to pull the flywheel without pulling the pan....the B, you have to pull the pan to pull the flywheel...so it might be really difficult to see how it got addressed without pulling the pan
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