Technical Model A Roadster Body Assembly Question????

If I got it cheap enough to be comfortable paying for a pair of new doors [about $600 ea.] I could deal with the rest...
but... I could only make a hotrod from it... never a street rod....
its about you...
what do you want ? what level of build do you expect?
do other guys opinions matter much to you ?
are you the kind of guy that can be happy not having the best ?
does doing it yourself float your boat...
.
I probably could do better work, but I see it as value VS. labor, if it took me twice as long to do a little better job welding I would never get my money back when I need to pay taxes...
there is the "this is what I started with" thing where showing before pix has an impressing affect on the onlooker.. when you preface the car with the before pix I feel the car doesn't need to be that"nice".
.
back a few years most customers felt they could get a brookie for about $5,000, they didn't know how much work there was in assembly, it was the number $5,000 that they had as a ceiling...
they won't pay $3,000 for a pieced together body because in their mind for another $2,000 they could get a brookie… keeps my bodies in that under 3 range...
so if eventual resale is a probability, estimate the cost of parts needed to get it to your standards and compare that with what is available $...
ok, enough... good night.

 

Offer him 1200 bucks on the frame/title,and be willing to go to 1500.Make sure the VIN on the left rail in front of the cowl matches the title,and can be read.Make sure the title is signed in the right place IF its signed off. I wouldnt worry about year.You can put a 30-31body on a 28-29 chassis.Do you check Craigs list for model A"s? I look at Craigs from Medford OR to Bakersfield often just to see whats out there,and you can still find driveable A"s in the 5-6000 dollar range.Buy a coupe,or sedan.Get it in your name,and sell the body to offset the cost.Buy a Brookfield roadster body,and start the build.

 

Go on Craigs list Los Angeles.Type in model A roadster.Theres a builder 29 roadster with flattie power with title.Not a bad looking start.He wants 12 grand.Bet he would take 10.He"s in thousand oaks.I doubt you could collect an equal parts pile for less money than 10 grand.

 

This is great info. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Did you see the pics of the frame. It looks like it’s been set up for a Chevy motor. Has some engine mounts & trans mount welded to it & it’s missing an original crossmember. Still worth buying???


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Here’s my pile of model A parts I got off of Craigslist. Paid 1400.00, it’s a cabriolet, came with a chrome drop axle, 36” rear axle, and hyd brakes all the way around. It also needs a sub-floor. Had a friend tell me all it was good for was yard art, but I think I got a pretty good deal. One piece at a time, it’ll take a while, but it’s like eating a good steak, take your time and enjoy it. This is supposed to be fun.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

All that can be removed.Look at the left frame rail for the VIN.It should be readable to the average guy,and not messed up by holes/grinding..The factory center member is no loss.If your going to run a 1939 type trans you will need a different crossmember any way.These frames flex so you need to take measurements and make sure its square,and flat.Once squared I would figure out what type of trans mount/center cross member,and partial/full boxing/K member bracing you want to add.You have alot of work ahead of you,but its all doable if you can weld.This may be a several year project to build a car from scratch so be sure your up for it.If your married how does she feel about you being in the garage 3-4 nights a week for a year? If you dont have her support your in trouble from the get go.

 

About one year ago I sold a very nice,complete running 1930 chassis with a nice roadster cowl for around $1950.00. The one you are looking at I would run from pretty fast unless it was free !

 

I took a rolling chassis with motor sitting in it with a body on it that’s it , to CHP office in Turlock , state patrol came out , verified the vin finished my paperwork up I was on my way

if you find a frame to build around , you can call in make sure the vin is clear before you buy it or build a car around it

 

Lot's of good advice here. In the end, it all comes down to you and your budget. Starting with something rough and/or piecing a car together can be equated to buying on the installement plan. If that's what your budget dictates, go for it. Just realize it will be a long haul (years), and you must have the enthuisam to carry it through.

On the other hand, if you already have the funds, you don't need an installment plan. Paying up front for a better and more complete starting point will save you time and money in the long run.

Now obviously, the calculation is different for an accomplished metal magician accustomed to bringing heaps back from the dead.

 

The ( vin ) is located on the top of the frame where the cowl bolts on . It’s always a good idea to clean that area up and take pics of it and or a pencil rubbing of it to show the dmv ect. It beats having to take it apart to get to it later.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

How I like to do it is take all the parts that are either junk or you don’t want or need put them on a pile,and take a look at what is left.that is what you are buying. To me it is not worth it. Too many times I see sellers cobble up junk and ask big money for something that resembles a car . If the price reflects the usable parts than go for it. Good luck.

 

Buy every single frame with a matching numbers title you can find.

You can easily re-sell every single one.

 

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/thousand-oaks-1929-model-roadster/7098721403.html
https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/d/ventura-1929-ford-model-roadster-pickup/7109945703.html
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/d/whittier-divorce-sale-ford-model/7101556161.html

 

We buy every frame with numbers we can find here in Maine...
most look like they had been under [salt] water...

 

We still have rust-free ones out here, but everyone seems to have lost the paperwork.

 

That won't work in California. It has to be inspected, in person, by DMV, or CHP. If paperwork exists, any peace officer, or a private verifier, in addition to the aforementioned, can also do it.

 

What do you guys think about the price for this one? Looks like someone got crazy with the body filler though.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3413774488650052/


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I have purchased nicer, for under $2k, with a title.

For that price, you should be able to drive it home, or, at least on to the trailer.

 

This is "or best offer", and is listed at $750 more than the heap you posted.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/d/cedar-ridge-1931-ford-tudor-sedan/7103225948.html

 

Yeah. The one you posted isn’t a Roadster though. It seems that Roadsters are priced quite a bit higher. I’m not saying I’m gonna buy the dump heap. I’m just trying to get a feel for pricing based on quality. I’ve seen some pretty nice completely Restored Roadsters for $12k. Based on that I can’t figure out why guys want so much for the roached out ones.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I hate to say it but as it was said the roadster is worth more in pieces then the whole car..
Look for a unfinished roadster project and usually the best deals. I wish you were closer as I have a 1929 roadster and 1930 roadster project

 

I regularly see roadsters at that price-point up this way. Look on Craigslist, set your search to Sacramento, and include nearby areas.

Some folks do not understand that Model As were made for 4-years (~5, of you count the AR, and early '32 production, and only count US production), and to the tune of 4,858,644 units.

They are not rare, and even restored exacting original detail, are not worth all that much, as cars go.

 

I was in the same boat when I started my '30 roadster project a couple of years ago.
Here is a few things I considered and what helped me make a final decision.
Price was king...I was looking to spend the least amount of money, get the best possible body out there and requiring the least amount of repairs.
Posting wanted ads in the HAMB, Barn, and craigslist got me a lot of hits. Eventually, I got mine from a lead off craigslist. Someone answer my wanted ad.
I first decided what year body I wanted. I decided on a '30-'31, since I like that body shape better and I also already had a '29
I considered a brookville body, an original body/project and or searching for the pieces to make a complete body.
I first gave up the option of finding the pieces to make a car, I don't have the set skills needed to put it together, the patience to find all the parts, or the room to layout it all out. I am personally glad I didn't go that route.
The Brookville option was the 2nd one I gave up. I figured the price of a new body and a decent project where almost the same, once the "decent project" was to the same lquality evel as the brookville body. Seeing the complete Brookville bodies at the LA Roadster show sure didn't make my decision any easier. Tighter gaps, new sheetmetal, little to no metal work....hard to pass.
I set on a decent project with little repairs. I liked the idea of an original body, even if it required more work.

I set a tentative budget of $5k-$7k, the difference being in the quality and how complete the car was.
Taking my time and not jumping at the 1st option paid off. Really came down to the idea of buying a good project car and not someone else's headache.

I had somewhat of a clear idea of what I wanted and that helped too. I pretty much only needed the body and convertible top.
I was planning on a new '32 frame, rebuild flathead and every other piece to be aftermarket, new, or rebuild.
Didn't care about a title since I was using a new frame and regardless of it, I knew I was going to have to do some additional work to get it registered down the road.
I now have a clean title, YOM California plates, but that 's another story...

I used Search Tempest, to look for cars, which covers a greater area than Craigslist does. I would search almost everyday. I figured out how far was I willing to travel, 500 or so miles, to pick up a car. Also, figured out how much was I willing to pay for a car out of state, without seeing it and going by pictures only. I factored in +/_ $800 in transport fees.

Finally, someone replied to my wanted ad. I ended up paying $4k for a complete car, minus the engine and windshield frame. It had been carefully taken apart, all metal was sand blasted. All the little parts had been bagged and catalog and the price included shipping to my house.


I've since sold all the extra parts to fund other parts in the project


There was the typical amount on the rust in the corners but nothing major
The subrails upfront were near perfect. The rear sub rails were shot, which helped me not to feel bad when replacing them for Steadfast new sub rails.

Good luck. Take your time searching.
There are still good projects out there at a good price.

 

This is great. Thanks for all the suggestions & advice. Exactly the info I was looking for. Gives me hope.
Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I started out with pretty much the same mess, mine didn't even have any paint left on it. It is a roadster, sure, but, there's so much work ahead of you, (patching it up is half the battle), aligning those 90 year old panels is another, then, after its all back together, you look at it & think was it worth it? I dont think i will ever want to start with something missing that much metal.

 

We'll presume that's a clear '32 title to go with your new frame where the numbers will magically appear. I'll let @gimpyshotrods speak to that.
I'm reminded of a comment made here some time ago that a '30 highboy (on '32 frame) owner said he was pulled over by CHP who was knowledgeable and he wanted to confiscate the car because he knew it was a Model A body and the frame had '32 numbers. I know there has been some kickback in Cal about original numbers on obvious assembled from aftermarket parts cars. Here in Oregon an assembled or unverified vehicle will get an assigned vin on a Blue Sticker that they put on the door jam. They don't seemed to be concerned about the frame. I know some owners have taken upon themselves to stamp these numbers in the frame.

 

Mine is a '30 model a roadster with a '30 model a roadster vin/title and '30 YOM plates....registered and insured but yet to be on the road.
California is getting more and more difficult and I completely understand why those requirements are so strict

 

Don't give up on searching Ebay. Once in a while you find good deals.
I've noticed Model As have been going down in price over the last 2 years.
I bought my '29 roadster on ebay from Arizona. Sight unseen cause I wanted to save all the money I could but not something I would recommend.

Including the Roadster, transport, registration and YOM plates I was in for $9,600

When I bought it, for me, it was a better deal than a Brookville roadster body alone.
The plan was to take it apart and build a high boy with it but it turned out to be such nice car that I couldn't get myself to do it. Decided to let it go to a better home...Helped me make my mind on '30-'31 body style