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Hot Rods Model A spring shims

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bikelessbill, Aug 2, 2025 at 11:52 AM.

  1. See post #22 above.
     
    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  2. Bikelessbill
    Joined: Oct 1, 2013
    Posts: 186

    Bikelessbill
    Member

    The crossmember is welded to the frame at each end. It is installed on a 5 degree tilt. The spring is attached to the crossmember by the spring clamps. Both are in a fixed position and cannot move. The adjustable perches swivel so you can set the caster on the axle then lock in place with the adjustment of the hairpins. The problem is the aftermarket crossmember is not made close enough to the design of a factory Ford type. It's doesn't seem to flair out on the end on the front side as much as a factory piece. That's the best I can explain it.
     
  3. So do you have a plan in place for repairs?
     
  4. P.S. 5-degree tilt don't mean much without taking ground profile to frame rails.
     
    Johnny Gee and twenty8 like this.
  5. 05snopro440
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 2,855

    05snopro440
    Member

    I get what you're saying, but it's pretty easy to combat those issues. That said, if the crossmember is pinched at the bottom near the end welds, then he's SOL.

    I meant if the thing is pinched in the middle, you could spread it with a porta power and gain an 1/8th or 1/16th without issue and possibly solve the problem.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2025 at 7:36 PM
  6. Bikelessbill
    Joined: Oct 1, 2013
    Posts: 186

    Bikelessbill
    Member

    Not yet.
     
  7. Let me ask this. What is the actual problem with the spring making contact inside the crossmember? Did you buy the car as is or have you been driving it and it just happened?
     
  8. It might be for you or me that may have already done some repairs. Bikelessbill sounds fairly new to both Fab repairs and Suspension work. I preferer not to assume one quick move will fix it all. I'm more interested in knowing what caused the issue to start with. That's the best place to start.
     
    Happydaze and 05snopro440 like this.
  9. 1935ply
    Joined: Oct 21, 2007
    Posts: 300

    1935ply
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from peyton,co
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    If you drop your spring down, you can take a short top leaf about 6" long and radius the front and rear top edges. remove the center bolt and place it on top of the spring. This will allow for some discrepancy in the radius of the top inside corner radius of the crossmember and keep the spring from being bound against the corners and allow it to be at the 5 degree angle of the top of your crossmember. Also at that time you can make sure the top and bottom is the same measurement on the crossmember.
     
  10. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,281

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thinking about it some more, the simple test is to establish how the spring sits in the crossmember with the shackles removed, and move forward from there.

    Chris
     
    ALLDONE, Pist-n-Broke and twenty8 like this.
  11. I'd like to give you 3 likes for that comment. The first step in finding the actual issue. Sooner or later the spring has to come out to do anything previously mentioned.
     
  12. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,476

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    In your pictures, what are the other brackets that are welded on top of the frame? I still do not understand why you can't move the front axle by adjusting your hairpins. If you loosen the "U" bolts and bring the axle back, the spring will move with it. Can you show a picture of the entire frame and front end? Did you measure your wheelbase side to side as I asked in my original post? I have been building street rods for over 60 years and never had to modify the front crossmember to get the spring to fit!. Hair pins and four bar set up's are designed to adjust your axles caster and wheelbase. Am I missing something?
     
  13. Car Builders and Car Owners often look at things differently due to the understanding or lack of. What an Owner will see as a big problem the Builder often sees as just maintenance and adjustments. Seems this O.P. may be in the deep end of his understanding so tape measure numbers and degrees may just add to his confusion. I still have a feeling his spring center pin sheered the head off and the connecting links whatever they are pushed it forward due to the way they are installed.
     
    GuyW likes this.
  14. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,416

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    Many recommendations posted already need to be checked,

    Have your Vehicle off the ground sitting on Jack stands on ""all 4"" corners so the weight of the car and ride height is on jack stands or other,
    The way it would actually/naturally
    sit on the ground.

    Jack stands or Other
    Out Near the Wheels / Spindles.
    & Level left to right,
    & Rake Front to Rear . You want .

    4 plum bobs ,
    Straight edge
    Angle finder
    Marker / pencil
    Wheel's On & wheel's Off .
    Mark floor , for wheel base

    Strait Edge for Wheel's off with Angle finder for Additional marks on the floor.
    Using Two studs .

    & IT sounds like spring Not setting Square up in flat of Cross Member the way it was Pressed ? Massage , File , grind side of spring so fits clear the radius ,1 or 2 top of pack that sets in
    Against inside of Cross member .

    You need to See where all is setting Now
    Then Go from there into What Needs change , Adjustment , or wack crossmember Out & Restart
     
    GuyW likes this.
  15. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    Oh My!
     
    05snopro440 and Happydaze like this.
  16. Well, @Bikelessbill , have you decided what you will do first?
     
  17. Bikelessbill
    Joined: Oct 1, 2013
    Posts: 186

    Bikelessbill
    Member

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