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Technical Model A steering column altitude adjustment

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by trevorsworth, Aug 7, 2022.

  1. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 2,056

    trevorsworth
    Member

    Hey guys! My friend @RMONTY and I are putting a Model T roadster body on a Model A ch***is. It will be running only the lower half of the windshield with a top, which means the seat has to be low... like way low to keep your head under the top of the windshield frame.

    [​IMG]

    What's the best way to drop a Model A column? We think we are gonna have to drill new bolt holes and rotate it clockwise in the frame. Anyone have experience with this to share?
     
  2. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 3,460

    Tow Truck Tom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Clayton DE

    Neat project. I wonder can you see over the dash?
     
  3. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 2,056

    trevorsworth
    Member

    As long as I'm sitting on a phonebook I should be good.

    In all seriousness yeah, the visibility should be fine in the end. The windshield will be a little bit taller than it is there (there is supposed to be like 3/4" of space between the bottom of the windshield and cowl when installed) and the seat will be a little bit higher with the floor under it and the cushion installed (not to mention further forward with the back cushion in). I was just sitting on a piece of wood there.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2022
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  4. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 3,460

    Tow Truck Tom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Clayton DE

    Thanks for pics. Enjoying the view.
    Will be watching
     
  5. Blake 27
    Joined: Apr 10, 2016
    Posts: 1,554

    Blake 27

    A couple random thoughts.
    If you could lower the floor under the seat a little you could have more seat padding while still sitting low.
    Raising the windshield gl*** a bit would make a big difference blocking wind. A top could still be built with
    a little thought.
    To gain leg and knee room, a steering set up like the one pictured could gain a lot of space, and you could still use
    any number of steering boxes.

    img_26_std.jpg upload_2019-11-20_19-23-13.jpeg 20190914_123019.jpg 2007-04-20 015 (2).jpg
     
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  6. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,573

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'd consider killing two birds with one stone: Convert an F-1 steering box to Model A configuration using the Tardel method. This involves cutting the mount flange off the F-1 box and welding a model A flange to it. (The sectors are the exact same diameter.) You can position the two pieces into the proper configuration prior to welding. In the end you'll have the column orientation you need and also a much superior steering box.

    I did this with my A-based speedster to accommodate the significantly lower Mercury Sport Body cowl.

    If you really want to retain the Model A box, you can still use this method to make it fit: slice the snout off the stock box, chamfer both sides, rotate until it fits and weld. I did that myself and ran it for a few years until I decided I wanted better steering.
     
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  7. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 2,056

    trevorsworth
    Member

    I had an F-1 box, but gave it away haha. My A box was rebuilt & steers really nice so I see no reason to replace it if not necessary.
     
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  8. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,573

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Doh! Well, like I said, you can use the same method with your Model A box, but if it's already rebuilt you probably don't want to pump that much heat into it. Easier to just drill new mount holes in the frame, if the configuration will work (mine wouldn't, but it's way lower).
     
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  9. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 884

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    The first time I lowered mine I just made the stock holes into ovals with a rat-tail file. I was worried there would be issues, but it ran like that for a good many miles, over some pretty rough pavement and dirt without any problems. When I changed steering wheels, I needed it even lower, and I didn't want to elongate those holes any more, so I made this bracket out of 3/16" steel plate. It has also worked for many miles of rough travel.

    Steering Bracket.jpg
     
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  10. vtx1800
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,908

    vtx1800
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    for what it is worth, having spent 50K plus mile on a motorcycle, I looked over the top of the windshield and that was fine and that is what I will shoot for on the T I am building.
    As another poster sometimes adds "your mileage may vary":)
     
  11. trevorsworth
    Joined: Aug 3, 2020
    Posts: 2,056

    trevorsworth
    Member

    That’s exactly what I was looking for! Elongating the holes was our first thought, then we considered a plate. Good to know both answers are right!

    I think most T guys look over the windshield, and I’d be good with that, but I have an original top I plan to chop.
     
  12. ClarkH
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 1,573

    ClarkH
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I also didn't want to look over the top of my windshield and I wanted to retain the option of running a top eventually (which means no curved on the top of gl***). So I added a few inches to the stock T bottom frame. No big deal since I was narrowing it at the same time. I was worried it might end up too tall (i.e. "not cool"), but it's worked out great and I'm very happy I did it.
    sections.JPG
    WS-done.JPG
     
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  13. dwollam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 2,809

    dwollam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I chopped a '27 2 piece windshield and posts and made it a 1 piece by shortening the upper frame and just ****ing them together using all 4 pivot points which of course means it won't tilt anymore but worked great. It was a chrome frame too. Also cut the posts the same amount to fit the frame.

    Dave
     
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