Uh, somebody correct me if I am wrong, but i believe that it is just a serial number, with no inherent data.
My next question is as follows... I just bought a 30 tudor body and just found a model a frame. The serial number doesn't connect to the year, so I could use the frame to get ***led and be good?
What ever # is on the frame should be the # you use to apply for a ***le. Afterwards, buy an aftermarket firewall vin tag for the cowl, and get the frame # engraved on that tag.
It is my understanding that you cannot tell what year ch***is it is by the serial number on the Fords, but don't hold me to that.
cool, thanks for all your help hauler! If anyone has anymore input, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, this is how the number starts... #A1477@@@
A Model A serial number is year specific, different numbers for 28/29/30/31. I went through this with California DMV a year or so ago. I had a Model A restorers handbook (can't find it now) that gave serial numbers (groups) that were for specific years and had to show this to Cal DMV to "enlighten" them that there were no Letters before the number (mine was DRO on the pickslip), and on real Model A serial numbers there is only a star preceeding the serial number. Also my pinkslip had CAL after the number, and I also had to fight with them about this also, because after the serial number there is also a star...................told them that the CAL was for California and no serial numbers were made by Henry for specific states!!!!! So, I also stamped the body at the door sill.............and yes I included the DRO at the begining and CAL at the end. I also stamped my frame just infront of the body to make sure when you go through DMV/State Police....etc, they can see it without pulling the body off the frame..................... IMHO
It should have a star (*) in front of it, also, it is located on top of the rail, where the body bolts up to. (the body hides this number when the car is ***embled)
here you go this might help identify what year and what month the car was made http://www.mafca.com/data_eng_production.html
cool i'm going to go look at it tomorrow I think. The guy wants $200, good price for this? I'm kinda new to these cars.
yeah but also depends on what is on it, is it a roller or just the frame, does it have an engine, does it have suspension??
he said it has the rear axle and front axle, the hubs are on it, no wheels, and not motor or transmission.
id say yes. make sure you look for cracks, warpage and other nasty stuff that mill cost you more money to fix later.
Like mentioned above..Its easier to distinguish body by year, rather than figure which year the frame is from...***le your car by body year and use the frame #, no matter what the Mafca page states...
Out here in CA I'd drop $200 on just a frame, so long as the VIN is clear in the system. The DMV here is nearly imp***ible without a proper VIN. Not too sure any cop or DMV drone could discern a '30 body on a '29 frame. I have two spare frames, ***led, for future projects. They just need to read a real, clean, legible number. Oh, and Larry is probably right. ***le it as what it appears to be.
My '31 A Coupe carries an 8 digit VIN number starting with an "A"....its had this VIN since at least the '60's...from what I understand from the Iowa ***le/Registration..... I may be wrong but I remember I read somewhere that.... In the '30's supposedly the Vin was taken from the engine serial number....and through that number you can establish which month of what year you A was manufactured....unfortunately.....many A's had their engines replaced back and the original number went with it..... There are two serial numbers....one on the frame and one on the engine....
The engine serial should have been stamped into the frame when they were mated up at the factory, so they did match, at one point. Of course, many or most have had engine changes, mismatching the number. It doesn't help that the frame VIN is under the body, either. Oh and Ford was in the habit of using leftover stuff until it was gone, so a '30 could have an engine that was produced in '29, and thus a '29 serial number, etc. Nice and clear, eh?
I have a 29 coupe and a gas tank from a '28. Both have the manufacture date stamped on the drivers side upper seam area close to the end. this is the manufature date. I am not sure about 30-31's. The frame number was supposed to match the engine#. If it was changed it won't. But my frame and engine# match and start with an A. You can go to AAA and see if anything is licensed with that Vin, or the CHP here will do it. I just wnet through this this week. Thanks, Tim
true, but it might hurt the resale value if he ever decides to sell it. not very many people are going to want a 1930 sedan thats ***led as a 1929. well, i woundn't and many others might not either, but its up to him.
yeah, I got $300 for my frame. The DMV won't know. Call it whatever year you want your body to be. '30-'31?