saw the thread and thought i would throw my hat in.... im working on my first build..and without my buddys, i wouldnt be half the distance i am..... i had stony at www.oddballkustoms.com build my frame..killer guy...great price..built to what i wanted....but i had to know what tires i was using and setup....for the front end....so i could get the stance i wanted exactly. All im saying is check things out...all my buddys jab me, but in a good way to figure stuff out for myself, haha, but in the end they all stear me in the right directions...well..when i start to go off course. the easy route is to get everything all setup for ya, but wheres the fun in that..and remember, when you need to get parts to repair it....where do you go? all things to think about...also, i am using a chevy s10 rear axle, way cheaper....and some air springs...basic shocks...but everything i can get at napa or the scrap yard. as far as channeling the body...T's have little to no room as it is, i would say knotch the frame... im the last guy on here to be called an expert on this...buy im trying to offer some advise and help...take it or leave it... here is my build http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429453
If I were building a T like yours the first and only place I would go for a frame is VAPHEAD. He does some really nice model A type frames that would be perfect for your car. Also, I think the money you will spend on those rear disc brakes could be better spent in about a million other places. Todd
I can get past the rat rod crap and a few other things but I don't get what flipping the bird has to do with building cars. Is it shock value? Way of saying hello? I just don't get it. If we was at a car show or cruise in and I looked over and you was making that face and flipping me the bird we would have problems. The cut off fingers or gang signs in the other pics don't help either. Other than that it looks like the build is moving in the right direction with some HAMB'ers helping out with suggestions. Maybe just a little more respect and not so much tough guy shit would go a long way with others that may be able to help you out if you needed it. Just my two cents. By the way I'm not far from you and wouldn't mind lending a hand if you needed it as long as no gang signs or bird flipping greeted me walking in the garage. Steve
Sorry Stevo, the tough guy shit is not aimed at you. It's aimed at this damned horrid rat rod! If you note in my thread, every time I throw up the bird its after a long hard day of work on this retched bastard. The last bird I threw was when the body came off which took me a while. As for the gang signs I don't recall throwing up any. Maybe the side peace sign. I am from a different generation maybe from you? I don't know. Furthermore, I have been to many hotrod and chopper meets in my time and I don't ever recall flipping a bird at anyone or even being vaguely obtuse. Be that as it may if I offend you I apologize. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be jumped, harassed, tackled, flipped or in any way hazed into a gang if you ventured along my shop. Thanks for your interest in the post!
Oh ok, lol I've just figured out the cutoff fingers... lol Anyone care to enlighten our fellow hamber? I'll give u a clue, it stands for "Shock and awe"
It may have been said already and I skipped over it but what axle are you planning on running on the front? Do you have it already? Running the Econo/?
Search the threads. Mantra- 'search threads, search threads.. Look, learn. A lot. You wanna learn, your'e in the right place. I'm no wiz, so check what I'm about to say against wiser heads ( wiser ones are here!..) With brakes factor in the forces- disc/drum combo w/ a proportioning valve, set up right, will keep ya kids pretty safe. Down under we have a touring car legend, Allan Moffat. He won driving 350 hp sedans in 6 hour road races. He said he 'built the cars from the tyres up'- Worth a thought. Man I'm glad that 90° arse end chassis is history. Btw keep the grille- After body is set on chassis ( in the future) section shell to cowl line, 8° back from vertical. pie cut top trailing edge to give straight leading edge to hood. Fab shell bottom & mount. Fab hood. ( Search threads). Do it careful & precise, measure twice- Beautiful. The attached pic shows a sectioned car with a pancaked hood done right. Same applies to a car like yours.
Good god, thank you for going through this pile of crap before you took it out on public roadways!!! You are doing great!
That car has (had) more scary hillbilly engineering in one place that I ever thought possible Thankyou for pulling it apart and junking 90% of it. You at least now have a fair chance at building a decent (and safe) car. Daddio is giving good help. I guess the flaming is so minimal because you are at least prepared to listen. Good luck.
If I understand your question correctly, I will be running a solid front axle. I do not have it yet and will receive it with my 27 chassis.
Thanks for the words and advice... Yeah you gotta whoa as well as go! Brakes are very important to me... You cant over engineer them in my opinion. Then again I come from the motorcycle world... Also that pancaked grill and hood is where its at. That is what I will be doing... I already have envisioned the louvered hood I will create for this... A learning experience for sure... Welcome! Yes and Daddio is a class act
Awww shucks, y'all are makin' me blush! Good to see ya Tony, when are you heading back out to the states? Victoria and I would love to see you and your friends again. Whiskey, keep up the great work! You're putting most of us to shame! I've had my T roadster for two months now and haven't done a THING to it!
I don't think the brakes that were on it were Ford. If I'm not mistaken, they looked like Chevy AD truck brakes (and axles) to me. Whiskey?
Those brakes and axles sure look truck to me. Count the wheel studs for a start - six of 'em. Anyway, they're gone now. (I'm still shaking my head)
They were some chevy truck brakes... correct... Yes gone they are... I could easily rebuild them, but to what end? That was all junkyard shit. My original plans are out the window for this and I am going all out now, its the only way I know how. Build top quality like my choppers that have sold all over the world... I want this car to be a world beater, and I haven't even gotten to the world beater stuff yet, the interior! Thats what I like to do, leather work... Thats what my whole business is based around. All this other car building stuff just got in the way, lol.
Thats what I like to do, leather work... Thats what my whole business is based around. All this other car building stuff just got in the way, lol. __________________ Well, then... Saddle up, Whisky!
What do ya'll think of this transmission?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...608895276&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:VRI
Read thru this thread, Glad youre doing this car right, my concern is getting everything from catalogs youll pour a ton of $ into it for items that you may not need. You can save some $ by looking for rearends out of existing vehicles. Flathead and a T-5 you only need a rearend capable of handling 300 hp max. S-10 8.5" ring gear, Mustang 8.8, Ranger 8.8, Ford Full size 9" or 8.8" are all good candidates depending on what width you need. complete takeout rearends from local wrecking yards will be complete and have brakes. Consider what wheel bolt pattern you want to run when buying a rearend - match your front bolt pattern for wheels if possible. Most traditional builds will run drum brakes up front, if you want to run discs its your choice but it will not be traditional, a well tuned drum brake will stop well, they will fade when wet. Several companies make disc set ups that are contained within a drum for a drum look and disc safety. Flathead and T-5 is a popular combo and theres a lot of threads on the Hamb on how to do it. Once again, I'd look at scrap yards in your area or local rebuilders? Youll have a lot of $ and time wrapped up in getting your body straightened out, doors, lots of welding - dont want to see you blow the budget and the project to stall
Thank you for your words of wisdom... I am currently applying for my speedway dealer license and should be able to get a decent percentage off my build. It is $2500 buy in and 5k a year total in parts... I kinda like the kit format right now as I am pinched for time and money is a less issue compared to deadlines. I have terrible experiences with wrecking yards as they treat people like garbage and have piss poor service, I have very limited time as my other profession is a doctor so the pre-fabbed shit is looking like how its gonna go. I need to get to my specialty area of leather working, cus that's what I truly enjoy. Don't get me wrong the wrenching fabbing and welding is fun too but the leather is where its at for me... Maybe I'll go with drum in the back and finned disk up front? Do you have a suggestion for such a set up? Thanks kindly for your help!
I had allready subscribed but "vaguely obtuse"...... you offically have my attention. Great thread and good luck on the build.
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