Thanks for the lesson bro... I had no idea... I was going with suicide doors because I have a broken back and it makes ingress/egress easier on me. I remember climbing in and out of that thing the way it was and the first thing that popped into my head was if these doors were reversed it would be so much easier on my back... That's all. On the humidor I'm a cigar aficionado and they are a big part of my life... It will be tastefully done (read: you won't know it's there) Thanks bro... I also don't wanna take my sister to the prom (she is pretty but it's just unnatural) lol will do after work today...
If it was tough to get in before wait 'til you chop it! What you're saying makes perfect sense, and where form follows function, DO IT! My recommendation would be to either use the stock hinges on the backs of the doors, or at least new replacements. Keep as much of the hardware T as possible. You could go to hidden hinges from somewhere like suicidedoors.com or welderseries.com. And when you go to that extreme it seems natural to flush fit the doors too. Next up are a set of Bear Claw latches. Just be sure to install safety pins in the cowl so that if your latches fail or someone accidentally grabs the door handle. Otherwise those doors will live up to their name!
medial...toward the interior. On my build I am filling the drivers door completely and on the passenger side I am building my own door that will open, but it will be flush fit (does not over lap the quarter panel as original) and hopefully I will be able to hide the hinges completely. Should be a chore, that cowl has quite of bit of curve to deal with. Thanks...
"Shaving the doors" would be removing the door handles and locks. "Flush fitting" the doors is like Anderegg eludes to. Stock, the door overlaps the body opening. Ford did this through 1931, and changed in 1932. Flush fit refers to a recess in the door jamb where the door fits "into" the body, therefore eliminating the door overlapping the body that T's and A's (heh heh, T&A!) have. This is a BIG job to undertake, but when done looks SOOOO right! Does that make sense?
Lose the grille man...LOL sorry just kidding. I read through your whole build today and it's amazing. Both the work you have gone through so far and your patience as well. Keep it up, I'm subscribed so I can do some learnin' too!
OK after plumbing a line 2" medial to the center hinge pin the center of the bottom hinge pin is exactly 2" also. Further the plumb line directly intersects the body at that point and from the medial edge of the bottom hinge to center of pin is exactly 2". Hope that helps... Them flatties aint cheap... Will look into it for sure... So what are safety pins??? Thank you!
A perimeter frame is just the outside rails.... add crossmembers to suit. pennafxu, see if you can fix a Tyrolit dealer near you and order some cleaning discs. It will speed up your paint strip/rust removal program. I can get you a part # if needed.
Thanks for the info... Just got with the paint shop and they hooked me up with roll-lock type flap disks...
It depends on how you go about it. You could find a good running 8BA for 600-700 bucks and used the other 5 grand to finish the car. Or, you could spend 20K on a car that will only be worth 10K when you're done. Rich
Words have meaning. If it is just the siderails, it is not a frame, nor is it a 'perimeter' frame, whatever that is
I've seen lots of chassis builders refer to a "perimeter frame" as a pair of rails with front and rear cross members. Sometimes with, sometimes without a center cross member. I assumed this was a well known term... At least I knew what it was.
Point taken, however I am not looking to make any money off of this. So "worth" is an extremely relative term indeed. If I sink 30 grand into this car it will be "worth" every penny as far as I'm concerned.
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