I'm almost contemplating using the correct rear fenders, rather than 4 front fenders for a shorter wheel base… But the four "front" fender look is just so pretty in my eyes… decisions decisions...
rolling the rear end back by about 18" gives me the right wheelbase...<a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/file-36.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a> In this pic you can see how much more work needs to be done on this fender...
At least the wheel fits under the fender now, but a lot more metal bumping to go...<a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/file-37.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>
Marked the center of the driveline where the wheel centers correlate...<a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/file-38.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>
so the wheel base is 121" <a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/file-39.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>
Will need to extend the frame to soak up the extra length… and house the gas tank…I will use coil overs in the back and weld something close to a rear clip and tubing for the boat-tail where the fancy blue arrows are...<a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/199a54e3-dfc9-4a49-83b2-22111619ba04.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>
The area portrayed by the awesome red arrow is where the frame addition will go, along with the bracing/support for the boat-tail and fenders...<a href="http://s671.photobucket.com/user/pennfxu/media/27%20Speedster/4ea0c429-2f63-4077-9c9c-44af20b42ec4.jpg.html" target="_blank"></a>
I agree, for a boattail you need the longer wheelbase the rear end was way too close in your mock up pics. other boattails have a longer wheel base. The rear fender situation goes both ways.
Thanks for the reply HJ... So wheelbase seems bout right? Also started on the body work on the body dolly. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
So I decided on some garage therapy... Body on the dolly... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
hammer and dollied as I went, and cleaned the weld just a little... Not too much grinding needed here as this will be covered. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Modified frame a touch today... Marked off angles with a metal pencil and gage Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I will extend this section with 3x3 3/16" tubing for the 121" wheelbase Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This gauge shows a 4" drop between underneath of floor and front cowl... This area is rusted up front and I am planning on strengthening with tubing... More to follow on that... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
My new to me bell housing came in today... Slapped it on real quick, but will get it blasted prior to paint. Seems no where near as stout as the truck bh! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
And for the piece de resistance... The MDL plate fits great!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just a minor hiccup...MDL sent coarse bolts and this bh takes fine bolts...?? This is weird as the truck bh took coarse bolts... Either way off to McMaster Carr... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Lots of framing and bracing tomorrow along with driveline mock up... Can't wait for that! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If I could suggest a tip to you, it would be to consider switching to a smaller diam filler rod. I use .030 mig wire with sheet metal . This change would help reduce any current panel warpage. Less current need to melt smaller wire compared to larger,from the looks of it it seems your grinding a good amount of your bead off on those floor panels.
Nice pick up... I got lazy and welded with the 3/32 tungsten! The only sharp one in the bin! I spent a good hour dressing various diameter tungsten today to ameliorate that... Plus that gap was 3-4 mil and at 35 amps I was on the edge with high freq to prevent blow through vs dipping at an un fathomable rate with the thin stuff as u astutely pointed out. I also cannot find my copper heat sink. I just started tacking at first, but just kept going, corrected with h and d, finished and dressed the weld (which in this case non-structural can essentially be ground flush as penetration is not an issue, compared to looks...) In hindsight complete overkill as I am just patching and bracing in anticipation of replacement... I think the po used steel from lowes! Which was a tuff weld also, seemed kinda high in zinc or something from the colors I was getting, along with arc instability! Purdier welds ahead I promise and thanks for keeping me honest (read no more laziness ) Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
