hack saw on shackle bushing used the air hammer and got some purchase out she popped! new bushings courtesy of P&J other side is a bear! Needs to be drilled out... Whisky is back!
When you are screwing in the tie rod ends or heim ends into tubing, it doesn't look like you have them in far enough. Usually about an inch of threads should be showing, with the jamb nut covering a few of those threads. It looks to me like you've got maybe a half inch of threads engaged inside that tie rod tube? Please confirm for us. I think it's great that you are gung-ho on building a hot rod, and great that you are showing/asking us all the steps of the process, but if you had a friend nearby that has done this before to catch these sort of things you could save yourself days of rework. Like somebody said before, if we were there we could explain it in 30 seconds. Isn't there somebody near by who might like to help you drink your beer?
Thanks again for the input: Ok the tie rods are barely a 1/4" in... So I assume they sent the wrong length tube? As to the other point I am fine on my own as I work odd hrs, and garage time is my time... I like going through the process and facing the challenges... As there is no better way of learning... Further, if I fuck up I have no one to blame but myself! Whisky is back!
Spoke with P&J for over an hr and got some great advice on chassis set up etc (talking to someone as opposed to writing is so much easier!!!) and ordered a few more parts... More to follow! They had sent the wrong length tie bar... (3" too short! Hence the discrepancy as I knew something just didn't feel right!) They stated the tie bar length is usually 3" shorter than the eye to eye length, so about 1.5" thread sticks out on each end of the tie rods... Whisky is back!
I hadn't noticed what Alchemy did, good catch, man! Rule of thumb is that a threaded fastener needs AT LEAST it's own diameter covered in thread surface. Does that make sense? So a 1/2" threaded fastener needs AT LEAST 1/2" of penetration into another threaded surface to have it's intended strength. More is better. And when setting something like this up (future adjustability in mind) you need to remember that rule and never adjust it so far out that you weaken the junction.
A bit more drilling today... Disassembled the front springs to order a reverse eye spring...also got my left houdaille shock loose, but the right is frozen so need to change out the core... www.whiskycityleathers.com
Getting those bushings out is my absolute least favorite thing. I am feeling your pain on this one. The same thing never seems to work twice with those damned things. The WORST place to have to work them out I've found so far is when they're stuck in the spring hanger on your rear end. I went slightly mad before I finally got them out of one of my rears. Ultimately it was just going all Mjolnir with a BFH that got the last of them out.
I'm glad you u understand! It has taken literally a week right now on and off... Going with incremental bits next... If that fails then it's reaming time! www.whiskycityleathers.com
I remember using a hacksaw blade cutting the shell in two places, then maybe catching an edge with a air chisel blade and folding up the remaining skin. Will definitely need a reaming or sandblasting to remove the rusty-crusty from the hole when done.
Yessir! Followed that to a tee on number 1, but number 2 ain't havin non of that! www.whiskycityleathers.com
You can use a wooden dowel cut down the middle (like a clothespin) with some sandpaper to clean the hole too. I found myself wishing for a hardened steel round in the diameter of the hole. Ideally this piece of steel would be about 6" long and have a concaved, toothed, and/or notched face on it to grab and fold the bushing inward when smacked heartily with a BFH or air hammer.
No joke, I had some steel in my cart ready to order then I managed to get the damn things out the hard way.
Setting up the front end... Front engine mounts... Will be fabbed frame mount for bones tie-Rods clamped up to release the springs... www.whiskycityleathers.com
The correct tie Rod bar... 3" longer... comparing... released pack... bits and bobs... single spring... And hot rod tip: use a single spring to approximate actual ride height for your front end (fully loaded with driveline/body etc... www.whiskycityleathers.com
difference in length of tie rods spring clamped up to front x-member spring about 5-7pos caster angle jacked up plate jacked... and tacked... other side marked offp primer ground off tacked up www.whiskycityleathers.com
adjusting the tie Rod end of the bones to this frame level has thrown my caster angle in to the negative values... pie cutting time... stepped up to the cutoff wheel single cut... bent right around 7pos again www.whiskycityleathers.com
That was just opening parts, and playing around... A tab will be welded parallel to the rear side of the front axle and side of the frame not the front x-member... www.whiskycityleathers.com
other side gotta love frozen houdaille shocks... driver bones passenger front view side www.whiskycityleathers.com
I'm going to come back and read the past few posts, BUT did you know Kris Elmer @Muffin builds his own friction shocks and they'll available for the rest of us soon? Contact him, damn nice guy and talented too.
Not very well set up like that!! Lol That was just opening parts, and playing around... A tab will be welded parallel to the rear side of the front axle and side of the frame not the front x-member... www.whiskycityleathers.com
I don't have permission... third try to post this, PM sent. Kris is @loudpedal, his brother Tim is @Muffin. Sorry for any confusion.
Got word back from Kris. Nothing is listed yet, but this is where Elmer speed equipment will be listed. You can contact him here: http://www.elmerequipped.com/speed-parts/
Ok so back with the build... re-welded the left bung 5deg angle other side inside frame other side hacked off and ground flush other side www.whiskycityleathers.com
welded up... ground flush no binding here you can see the angle... rear put back together... www.whiskycityleathers.com
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