I miss drew the linkage! I had it figured in my head though! Thanks for looking out! [emoji12][emoji13]
Nice looking shifter. If you make the shifter handle longer and the Conrod a little higher, you get some servo action. I've been working on a similar shifter, but havens done mock up yet, and can't give you the measurements for the sweet spot, but it comes down to how tight you gearbox is and how much throw you want.
Thanks! I will have adjustment built in... This is just a rough mock up... Can u draw a pic of what u mean?
I miss drew it as u astutely pointed out! [emoji15][emoji16][emoji12][emoji13][emoji20][emoji21][emoji23][emoji38]
No, my drawings sucks. You got two ends, gearbox and shifter. The hight of the joint at gearbox is X. The hight of the joint has to be x+ 1/1.2/1.5/1.7/2. This give you leverage, adjust how long you needs to move your hand forward backwards. But also defines how much strain you put on your wrist going left and right. And the length above the give you possibility to adjust your shifter in the sweet spot, optimal road racer location between steering wheel and handbrake.
I would say yes, I've seen people use 1/2 stainless steel tubes, 3mm wall, and run 8mm hex bolts grade 8. Although they had triangles to stabilize the joints. But depends on your you plan and shifting behavior, because if plans to shift slow/cool or bang shift it and shift like you was in a road rally. Needs more to the latter, but rather go over kill and drill the shut of it afterwards. [emoji12] And if you learn from me, I most confess I learned from you too. That's hove it suppose to be! So right back at you!
Hey man, I am willing to learn from anyone! I wasn't always a doctor and learned from others when I got my training, with a basic understanding of the concepts of course! The only way to truly learn is to get out there and do it though... I really miss drafting, and had drafting class in high school. Man my drawings are really rusty!! I will definitely be mowing through the gears on this puppy and hope to race from state to state!!
A doctor? Doctor In mechanics? What will give you the side ways action? I got the top an gearbox lid and half a shifter, that makes up the free motion of the shifter, and I still needs to do a test assembly.
Cool, would never have thought you to be a doctor! No disrespect meant. Is there enough movement in a heim joint?
Never worked with heim joints. We don't get them much over here. That's why I ask. [emoji4][emoji111]️
I use them all the time on motorcycle shift linkages! They are great for making hand shift foot clutch choppers! Lot of play, as it is similar to a ball and socket joint!
I think you can't use a heim. You need the long link to push on the sides of the up/down links to twist it side-to-side. If you have a heim the forward/back will work fine but the side-to-side won't work at all. Check out volvo's pics. No heims at all. Understand?
Actually the first pic I posted, the shifter stands on a Heim joint, dident even see that my self until just now. But non of the other can be heim joints, they have to solid for flex sideways, only turn over a bushing. In the forward/backward motion. But you are completely right, alchemy. Never seen the word clevis, but I think I understand what it is. Mechanical ain't limited to language, that's why pics/drawings is so important. [emoji41][emoji111]️
Noted... But I think 1 heim joint is needed for side to side at base of linkage... All others solid... What you think? Also my nomenclature on the "clevis" should have said "clevis-heim link" in that one area... This will be the shift Rod. 5/8"-18 Main heim-clevis link.
Correct on the : one heim rest bushing over tube. No side way motion in the bushing. And 6 inches: how average [emoji12][emoji41] Looking good
Hey I don't need 12" in my car... When I have it in my pants! That would be showing off.... [emoji13]
How does you know how much you gonna need? It like you mill, and "other items", a matter of stroke [emoji12] and you only know it's enough when you try it out. That roadracer-shifter I posted a pic of looks longer then 6inches, remember you are replacing a rod that's most like more then 6 inches, so it's a matter of brute force, and stroke. Give it a try. But try it with a old piece of pipe, before you cut in that nice shifter you got.
What gearbox are you running behind that beautiful flathead? And how far back are you gonna move that shifter?
Tremec, cool. Moving the shifter back? Is tremec the one with two shifter locations in the casing? Then there might be a shifter relocating kit for it already. And then the average shifter length should be okay. It has a short shifter from the factory. I fought you was gonna run a old straight cut top loader or something like that. My bad!
Isn't there a kit that bolts straight in to the other two holes in the gearbox? There was a nice little write-up/piece In The Hot Rod Garage on them tremec (ep. 11)
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