After further work the flash is gone... now rinse, lather and repeat! I need to work the other fins up to 2000 along with the Offenhauser script. I hope I can get this finished this weekend. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I also did a final polish on the intake with some mothers... I laid the air intakes over the manifold for comparison. They are chrome. I’m very happy how the intake turned out and I think the time put in was worth it in the end. I’m sending the carbs out to get rebuilt on Monday. It’s going to be a 94 deuce setup. Is this setup cool or should I go with something else? I’m actually trying to save money! So I’m wanting to utilize all the old parts I still have... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
you did a nice job Retro it looks cool!! Im not a T fan but Damn[/QUOTE] That T is beast mode friend... I have said this before! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Talk with @unclemax about carburetion. He's a whizz on 94's, 97's and all manner of vintage carbs. He can help you decide what jets and linkages to run too. He is the best guy around to build them for sure. PM me if you need his contact info. IG: roundsixeric FB: daddio211
Carefully molding the area where the fins meet the main surface Finishing up with very fine roloc disk Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Laid down the duplicolor engine enamel today. I love this stuff! Next step is to re-polish the fins Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Moved to 400, then 600 Finally worked the Offy script with 180... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A little work today... Finished polishing fins... Water necks in place One bolt cover down, 23 left... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looking at radiators... I assume I will need a 53’ Flatty lo-boy correct? The cowl and grille shell height at around 20”...
Working out the PCV system... I have been reading on this subject so long that I have road draft tubes coming out my ears! Will need to refresh/recirculate the oily crank-vent fumes that emanate from this opening... they normally exit via this opening in the manifold and connect to the RDT...
There is also a secondary exit point in the valley... This appears to be an oil fill tube... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The manifold area under the carbs will be drilled and tapped here to T-off and connect to the PCV valve... I have one sitting around from an old Ford pick up truck that I can use if I can find it. This opening houses the mechanical fuel pump... I am going to polish the fuel pump up a little. The fuel pump looks like it is made out of aluminum... if so it should buff out nicely. If not it will still clean up good. I need to draw out a diagram to figure out my air flow and then figure out a set up... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some work this evening... This is the billet aluminum piece I will machine. This is where the billet piece will fit in the crankcase tube Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Down to 1.250” a couple more thousands for a nice slip fit... I will leave a 1/8” ridge on the top of this piece so it will rest on top of the crank vent tube. I will drill in the side of both tubes and line them up... The billet tube will be bored, drilled and tapped for the PCV valve. Finally I got the acorn nuts on [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After some time on the lathe... This is the basic design I machined a couple of relief areas for rubber o-rings This area will be bored to meet the side area in the second picture... that is where the PCV will tap in. The way this sits the intake manifold is not flush. I will work on that tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This current setup is not flush... My 15yo went to the lathe to knock it down... In the meantime I worked on the manifold Cut some threads... These are under the carb plenums and will lean the system out (I will need to adjust my mixture as the time comes) Here is an image of my pre-bored flush fitting billet PCV mounting hub. I test fitted brass fittings also... I will go to Lowe’s later this week to get the correct couplings. The T-fitting will connect to the billet hub piece. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
37/64” drill in preparation for the 3/8” NPT tap. Back to the lathe to make a block off plug for the area above my PCV setup. This will allow me to service the PCV valve if necessary as the PCV valve will be located under this plug... Just need to polish this up a little. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tapping the billet bung for the PCV valve... 3/8 NPT Time to zip it up... I pulled out the crankcase vent tube and cut it in two... This was a bitch to remove and was very hard to mill due to its brittle nature... I had to use multiple shaping dollies to get it back in round and then I pressed it back into the opening in the valley This is the final shot of the finished PCV and cut crankcase breather tube Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I wanted to use copper hose and crush fittings but I misplaced the fittings in the shop so will use them for my oil lines... I went with black hi-temp resistant rubber hose instead... It was a simple matter of plumbing all my lines... I used worm drive clamps and heat shrink for a clean look. The type of fittings I used allow me to block off the through holes... this came in handy for an issue that arose... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I couldn’t maintain vacuum in my system and so I blocked the two carb holes, and traced the leak with windex. After about 45 min I was able to lock in to the area... I rechecked everything and continued on... Here is the vacuum tested set up. Another hose was clamped to the PCV set up... The other end will connect to the T-fitting under the manifold Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Worm clamps and heat shrink in place... I needed to block off the side of the intake... 1/8” NPT tap and plug Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also finished the plug... Polished up real nice Next I moved onto preparing the block to accept the manifold and also getting the manifold ready for the block. Anti-seize on these bolts... I don’t really like stainless but that’s all I could find. I pre-threaded each hole in the block with a grade 8 SHCS and anti-seize... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I then taped off the block The block was cleaned with acetone The manifold was also taped off The manifold was thoroughly prepped... even though it looked clean, after wiping with acetone a good amount of dust came off I then laid down the gasket spray. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Then the manifold Unwrapped the lines on both parts to be mated This part was tricky as the lines needed to be hooked up, tightened, and heat shrunk. It didn’t help that the manifold is heavy and the copper gasket spray was tacky. I torqued the manifold down to 25ft-lbs. I don’t like using an extension but really had no choice due the distance... The tape that got ripped off looked like a salamander! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
