1” drop front crossmember from p and j... needs to be welded in at a 5-7 deg angle Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Peripheral oil filter... I used to use these on my chopper builds... www.whiskycityleathers.com “gold finger” build. This is a nice chrome Harley pile filter cover too! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sooo Excited! Feel like Hansel and Gretel! It was under there... That’s a lotta instruction for 12 bolts. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Plus these gaskets aren’t really for my application. Option 1 Option 2 Option 3 Kinda like 1 ?? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
You gotta give a reason man! I might just drill 3 spots to have multiplicity of locations... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So I’m about to order my driveshaft. I need to know whether I have a 6 or 10 spline rear. I’m pretty sure it’s a 6 spline from all my reading. Any insight would help. @alchemy Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Doesn't matter, you have a yoke on it already. They will need to know the size of yoke, and the measurements to the trans. Most driveshaft builders have a worksheet to fill out with all the key measurements they want.
I had to search through ten pages to get a glimpse of the yoke. Show me a closeup of it and I can tell you. Some F-1 pickups had open drive stock, but vendors are now making conversions. Did you buy it like this? Eitherhow, the driveshaft builder won't care where it came from, he only needs to know what size the X is.
These are the 7.8 mm suppression core. Unfortunately they won’t squeeze into this little beauty. I guess I can use it on the 33... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So as I went to measure for the driveline I noticed the first line said “ride height, supported rear end” obviously with it being on jack stands I said maybe another day! I was curious to see if the engine would spin. I grabbed the correct tools and the first go was tough... it finally spins with nice compression. Should I shoot some oil down the plug holes? I’m going to flip it and fill up the oil pump/pick up to prime it when I follow the break in procedure, with 3 hot/cold cycles and head-torques. Should I take the heads off? Or am I over thinking this. I’m going to build an engine test stand to break in all of my engines. It’s been sitting for close to a decade... @alchemy Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Yoke... @alchemy The steel 2” drive lines start at $320... the engine is well under 250hp... if I do solid burnouts will I be ok? Will my rear end hold up? I’m going to beef up the ladder bars. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The drive shaft won't be the weak link, it will be the axle keys. I really doubt you could ever break a driveshaft. When you are ready to start the engine, fill all the oil through the port on the back of the engine, topside of the bellhousing. It will take a large funnel attached to a hose and fitting, and a lot of time and patience. This will allow it to fill the gallery and pump from the top. Then turn the engine over slowly a couple times before lighting it up.
SECONDED^ Your tires are skinny too so you should get a lot of miles out of your keys and axles with that flathead and 5 speed. What is the measurement you need to get? Have you checked it against stock Corvette shafts? IIRC you can get an aluminum Vette shaft close if not dead on between a T5 and a rear end in a Model A chassis but don't quote me. I had one when I was messing around trying to tie a Ford 3.03 to a 47 Ford open drive rear many moons ago now. I paid like $50 for it.
Might want to wait til you get the generator and belts in place before you remove all the slack from the plug wires. Sometimes those fanbelts don't end up where you planned, and you need to go around them.
The Jalopy Journal
