That pulley looks like it's made for a 39 and older fan. You have a later fan. The earlier ones come in different lengths, usually the later the shorter. I'd think you need short. As for your linkage, that looks really screwy to me. Why have two different length arms on carbs that should be equally linked? And, are you sure you put the spring on the correct direction? I like to buy my linkage stuff directly from Stromberg, through their favorite dealer Uncle Max Musgrove.
I didn't even watch your video. Charlie's Price is not the guy I trust to supply good parts or information. You have such a widely spaced intake manifold that I don't believe using a carb clear on one end to supply both ends will give an equal mixture. I'm no hydraulogist or pneumismotist, but it seems to be counterproductive to me.
Ok I’m just buying the stromberg one, where do I measure from and do I buy a progressive one like the one I have?
That is the proper type fan, and it seems on the short side. But that one looks really rust pitted. Never trust a suspect fan. Too dangerous to have risky steel spinning in your face. Ford made millions of them, and there are still good ones out there. To measure for the proper linkage, string a rule from the shaft on the front carb to the same shaft on the rear carb. You need to know the spacing apart they have. That is the number the manufacturer will want.
That is not the short fan. See pic. This one is nice and available, PM me if your interested. Also as mentioned go with the straight linkage on your 2x2 set up, not the progressive.
Penn, that gray fan is for a 40 and won't fit the pulley. Note the mounting surface has a protrusion, not an inward bore. The next one shown by 30A should mount up just fine. I personally don't like aluminum radiators, but as you know I'm a purist. It should be just fine for a run-in stand. If you are using an electric fan as shown on that radiator, why worry about a mechanical on the alternator? The two small fittings on the radiator are for an automatic transmission coolant connection. Wait til you have your parts assembled, stretch a tape measure around the pulleys, and take that measurement to your local parts store and buy a belt. Also buy one an inch shorter and an inch longer. Take back the two that don't fit. Kinda dumb to buy a part meant for a stock engine while you are switching around a bunch of parts, expecting it to fit. And paying shipping on top of it.
After my flathead cooling book it said you can't get enough cooling on a flathead... I was going to run both as per the information. More to follow after some break-in runs. I also like the look of the fan for nostalgia...
OK, well then I would say a flat front crossmember with a reverse eye spring will get you another 2-3" down in the front. That or ditch the spring over, add a piece of 1x2" box tube between the horns, and run a spring ahead setup to get LOW. Here is my AAV8 where I have a setup like I am describing. My axle is an old one and not as low as yours. My crossbar also needs to come up to the top of the rail still (I tacked it to the bottom jic I went too low; I did not), and I am not running a reverse eye spring. On your car, this would drop your front end WAY down from where it is now. I will drop down another 1.5"-ish when I move the crossbar up. A reverse eye spring would make that drop between 2 and 3" more on top of the 3ish inches a spring-ahead gets on its own. You can get down around 9 or 10" iirc. Also bear in mind a couple other things, you are not on a 32 frame, so getting that look on a Model A frame is not really going to be easy. And I also wanted to mention that if you channel your body down, your grill shell should come down also, which determines what radiator you will need.
Ok a 32 frame? That's my next project then! I need to just finish this one out with channeling... What chopped radiators for a 32 shell and 53 flatty? @patmanta
There are a lot of options and I am not familiar with them all. But "chopped" 32 radiators are readily available online for short money. I suggest making a few mockup templates out of cardboard based on measurements of what you can get. I wouldn't go down more than 4" which you can do with that cowl you have there if you trim the firewall. Once you get that down you will be able to get a line on how far down the shell needs to go and how you want to get it there. You can section it or just cut some out of the sides on the bottom and drop it lower (which is what I suggest you do if you want to use that chromed 28/29 shell). But I would focus on stance first really. If you want to get down LOW, the easiest (LOL) way is what I said with the spring ahead and flat bar (or a piece of channel to get even lower!) crossmember in the horns. You retain your existing crossmember and wheelbase so you keep your radiator mount too. You would want a set of 35 to 48 wishbones, with, I believe, 35/36 being closest in length to Model A bones. IDK what your axle is, so you need to figure out which one will fit on there. Once you get a set of split bones on the car with the correct geometry, you will need to heat the perches and bend them so the spring and shackles sit perpendicular/parallel to the crossmember. On my truck, they bent the bones themselves which is another way to do it (though it may be a controversial one).
Measured the carb linkage distance and it came out to 9 5/8" I also got the other linkage figured out! However I'm still going with the direct.
I don't understand what you mean "why the two openings"? There are two hoses top and bottom on a flathead Ford. Have you looked at your engine? Make sure to measure what diameter your hoses are, as the radiator might be wrong. Early and late flatheads had different measurements. And I've got no idea if that cap will fit that radiator. You should probably contact the manufacturers.
On the top bulkhead of the first radiator picture there are 2 openings… is one the filler, if so what is the other one fit? Is it for an overflow tank?
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