Hey guys!! Just came back from the sandblaster.... And when examined the interior saw some portion rotted inside the stud holes of the head! In two holes only! What do you think, may I can fixed them or junk the head and looking for other head? Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd think it could be sleeved. Drill and ream it oversized and sleeve it back to standard size with sealer on it.
Thats the same I'm thinking! Holes in the head are 15 mm! May be a don't need drill... Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
My concern would be what caused it and what does the rest of the head look like? I think I would look for another head. Of course when I say that there are plenty of them around in southern California. You best bet would be advertising in local clubs to save the shipping. If you are going to use it in a Model A get one of the new high compression heads. Charlie Stephens
Drill it out and hammer a sleeve in it. That is what I would do. Yes they can and should be fixed. You iba decir que me lo podria mandar mas empeze a pensar and me acorde qiuen eres. pues.
Thinking about it your holes look to large. Mine measure 11 mm (we are gradually inching our way the the metric system here in the US). A concern would be the the holes align the head. Looking at the bosses there was a lot of core shifting on my head. I wonder if someone drilled your holes over size and used the bosses for the location? Charlie Stephens
LOL we have been inching that way for 50 years that I know of. I would make the sleeves small but thick and see about alignment, if they don't align well then they can be opened up. There needs to be a little clearance to allow for heating and swelling.
Charly thanks for The reply! Thats was I thinking, The holes were enlarged! The Head was on a model A block prepared for racing in the seventies! Some studs are 1/2 size in The block! Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
A local guy! Friend of mine, have two model b heads for sale! Ok may be the holes were enlarged for align or clearance on The studs? Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Could be. I think the thing you have to watch is that there are no leaks of any kind. I have not been around a banger for a while but it seems to me that there is water in the head on those.
The size of the studs are the same, was thinking the B block uses 1/2 studs!! No! Some threaded are 1/2 in the block! Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sleeves are a temporary fix. They will expand and contract at different rates than the head it self, causing leaks at some point. If you really want to save the head, what about welding the offending holes and redrill using a milling machine. Of course the head will have to be surfaced afterwards. If its worth doing do it right the 1st time. Seems there is never time to do it right, but always time to do it over. just sayin' br***carguy
Many thanks for your reply! I'll try to get another B head!! Maybe for less billets than fix that head! Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Another thing you might consider is that the Model B head is only a slight compression improvement over the Model A head. It is not possible to mill either head enough to make milling them worthwhile. I am not sure what the final cost would be but if you were in the US I would strongly suggest one of the aftermarket high compression heads. Charlie Stephens
Charlie: I ask you! There's some benefit with the B water pump? Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Can I run compression head with a stock crank bushings! Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Instead of pounding a sleeve into the head, why not run an oversize tap all the way through the hole & then thread a length of all thread(with loc-***e) into it then drill the head to the proper size ? No added stresses from pounding the sleeve, & a(hopefully) leakless repair.
I don't know of any benefit of the Model B pump compared to the Model A pump . I seem to remember that some people claimed there was, you might try a post on fordbarn.com. Be sure you don't get a 1933/34 4 cylinder pump, they are about 1 inch shorter. The Model A pumps and kits are probably a little cheaper just due to the number produced. What year vehicle do you have? Charlie Stephens
Charly: I bought the engine as it is from a local enthusiast! They said was a engine from another guy in my town who races in the seventies with a model A Ford 4 door with wood structure over country roads... Some features are drilled crank, model B grind cam, ported, lightened flywheel, pressure oiling system, the model C head with the water pump! The said he touch 140 km/h... My goal is leave the engine as it is!! I think! Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Model A block with a system of forced lubrication , from a hole under the bolt that holding the oil pump on the block, Oil pump have some work for this, model B head and waterpump , drilled A crankshaft , reground B camshaft , has also a hole to place a fuel pump Sent from my XT1068 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
