Fat50, That AWB cop Nova is great looking! Big Tony, I've started a tubbed '54 sedan before, but traded the project off to somebody else, who "fixed" the body and cast it in resin for awhile when Revell was only releasing the '53/'54 SD. Now the '54 Sedan is available again, and from what i hear, they've cleaned up the molds quite a bit, as they were getting tired in the last of previous releases. Fidgiter, you know I dig all that stuff. I've been making a little headway on my "Money $hot" T-rod:
Cool cop car dude!! I've been tryin' to finish some stuff and start on my next project...1/8 scale '32 barn find. Or do I work on the real car????
I should be out in the shop , but I am in my room working on scratch building speed parts for the Model A banger. I have just finnished a flathead V-8 trans conversion just like the one on my 1:1 Model A. I want to build a S10 ****** version as well. Does anybody know if any Mustang kits have a T5 trans that looks like a T5?? Is there a stock S10 kit with a manual trans? Is there a resin of a T5-S10 ******?? When I am done I will cast a mold of the speed parts and cast a few dozen resin parts, for the HAMB.
Streat freak unit, LOL! That's killer! I'm still deciding what color to paint the Jimmy 6 in my '51 chevy convert. Anyone who's read Street Rod or Rag Top, this will be my vision of Link Aller's car.
Hey Fidgiter, Gow and Fat and anyone else. Some good stuff going on. Fidge that pic of the five projects kick ****. They are all cool. Here is a 37 Chevy I saved from a bag kit under a table at a swap meet. I thought the corduroy interior was neat and made me put it back together. They had the headlights in the wrong location but I put it back that way for something different. I plan on getting back in the model car room in two weeks after my cl*** is done. Scott
Heres my sob story for why I havent built a model in a while..... Some *** monkey at VA pulled the pin on my life grenade and it blew up every where. Have to move, ****it second house I have lost this year because of them, have to sell my A model (Someone please buy it!!), sold the 38 and got shafted on it (Car has gone, money never arrived). So I havent been building for a while but heres a how to for bomber seats I promised a while ago. So much for my government looking after injured soldiers. Ok, so a little on my model building history. I started building models like most of us, a tube of glue and a kit, end result a glue bomb!! I saw a model magazine once in a library when I was about 14 with an article on a scratch builder and though "Thats so cool" so I stepped up my work trying to make things. Learned I had a lot to learn!! I found an interest in WWII aircraft and concentrated on them. Jump a few years forward and I made money on the side by building large scale modes from scratch for museums, all aircraft. My last build was a 1/24 scale DAP Mk21 Beaufighter so I have a little idea about what I do. Now I have turned back to Hotrods, my first love in life. A lot of us seem to like the bomber seat look so here goes..... Aircraft Seat How This was originally as part two, the first seat was a basic flat pan with a back and cutdown sides like this. Didn’t think you guys would want that so heres a more in depth style. This is a finished version of the one we are going to make. You can add lightening holes by somply drilling holes in the desired places. We are going to build an aircraft seat with a curved back and a ‘tubbed’ base. This type of seat is one that a pilot would sit on his parachute and therefore in the capacity of a car seat will need a cushion. Step 1 First you will need to decide on a size for the seat, measure the available space and work out how wide you need it to be. I work on an average of 25mm high for the seat back and 20mm for the base width. You will need a two plan drawing of what we are going to build. This is shown below. Step 2 To make this seat with the Tub, you will need to make a three-part template. Shown below is an ‘exploded’ view of this. Note that the seat back height should be around 25 mm for 1/24-25 scale. Step 3 You must now transfer this template to plastic card and carefully cut out the parts. I normally work in 10-15 thou card for this. It pays to lightly sand one side of the card with fine grit paper so your lines wont rub away while working. I cut out the template and use ‘Blu Tack’ (Fun Tak in the US) to hold the template in place while I mark out the outline. Use either a sharp pencil or a waterproof fine liner. Now cut out the parts, you should be left with this..... Step 4 To accomplish the curve in the rear of the seat I use one of two ways of doing this. Cut the arms off of the back of the seat. Find something with the same diameter as the curve you want, a 35mm film canister works well for this. Place the seat back up against the canister and place rubber bands around it so that it conforms to the curve. Now place the whole thing into a bowl of hot water. This heats the plastic so that it will retain the curve once removed. This may take a few goes to get it to stay curved. Or 1. Take the seat back and something hard and flat, like a steel ruler or a small pain of gl***. 2. Place the seat back half under the ruler and lift the edge up and draw up and out from the ruler, this will give you a curve. Re-do this for the other side until you have the curve that you wish. Step 5 Now we ***emble the parts. I place the seat sides back on first, with a tack of superglue and a bead of liquid poly. Next I trim the seat base to fit, sand the rear edge until it sits snugly against the seat back then glue it into place. Once this is done the small seat front can be glued into place. You should now have this. Step 6 At this point you need to add the belt holes, shown in the three plan drawing. To be authentic they need to be done even if you don’t put belts in them. I draw on where I want them to be then with a fine drill bit drill out either end of the hole. (Use a bit the full width you want the openings) Now with a new sharp No11 Hobby knife blade trim away the material in between. Finishing touches There are a number of further details you can place on the seat to make it more realistic. These seats were made from pressed aluminium, and riveted together. You can replicate this by placing small ‘dobs’ of CA(Superglue) along a join to replicate the rivets, gel superglue is best for this.. Some of these seats also have swage lines on them. The ‘bumps’ can be replicated using stretched sprue that has been sanded flat on one side, remember that these were not deep so sand more than half away! You could also use evergreen half round strip, but this would also need to be sanded down a little. Sprue is the ‘Tree’ all the parts come on in the box. To stretch it, cut of a length and heat one point over a candle, rolling it to heat through evenly. Just as it becomes melted but before it catches fire and drops into your lap pull either side away at a slow constant speed. There you go, stretched sprue, may take a few goes to get enough the right diameter. For the other side ‘dip’ I use a Squadron panel line scribe. This is a tool for scribing panel lines on aircraft models, if you don’t have one of these you could use a round jewellers file to make the dip. I first place the swage ‘bump’ onto the model, once this is dry I hold the seat up to the light and mark the position of the swage line on with a pencil. I then place a steel ruler along the line and repeatedly scribe the line until I have the desired depth. You could use the jeweller’s file in the same way. Like I mentioned earlier you can also add lightening holes by drilling them in areas that you want them to be. I normaly paint them either ‘Green zinc Chromate’ or ‘Interior green’ as most seats were that colour. Raw Aluminium is easily done with Humbrol Metaliser “Aluminium” Polished aluminium can be done with either Bare Metal Foil of Alclad II paints, this can be very difficult! But hey its your model do as you wish, black green purple pink…….. Cheers, Doc.
Hey Doc... great how-to, but there's another way to put the bead-rolls in those seats: After you cut the pieces out, lay them on top of a folded paper towel (two or three folds will do the job) on a hard surface, and scribe the "bead rolls" in with the end of an extra-fine ballpoint pen. The impressions will stay in the plastic, and can be really enhanced by either putting a wash over them after you've painted the completed seats, or by dry-brushing the seats' metallic finish over a flat-black basecoat - your choice. BTW: Those were Fidgiter's builds... not Tingler's
D'oh!! Sorry Fidgiter!! Dave, you know I never thought of that, I use that on thinner gage sheet and never considered it fir this. It would be easier to do than the way I have used. On another note, this isn't really something we would build here but its worth looking at just for the work and skill in fabricating that has gone into it. http://www.autoblog.com/2006/11/30/video-homemade-1-3-scale-ferrari-312pb-fully-functional/ Cheers, Doc.
I've been called worse.....not much worse, but worse still. The sports coupe is my takeoff of the Snot Rocket. Revell '32 frame pie cut at the firewall with a C out back. Not much done on this one yet. The Tudor is my Rollin' Bones sedan lookalike. Another Revell '32 frame, bobbed the front end and stepped the crossmember. Orange Crate body with the revell '32 cowl grafted in and the windshield leaned back.
Man, they are both VERY nice looking models. Both of them look 'Right'. I just wish I could find either of them over here. The 30 coupe hasnt been seen in years and the Orange Crate re-release is kinda rare and sells for $50 plus!
A little birdy has been chirping at me that either Stevens International or "Model King" David Burkett is comissioning a special run of either the '30 Coupe or Sport Coupe, with stock AND rod parts inside for later in '07. I just saw that we're getting the Monogram 1/32 scale Hemi Fiat and Ford Screamer altered kits from Monogram this coming year, as well as the old '49er dragster all courtesy of David Burkett.
Dang it, now I will have to get someone to import them to Australia. We still dont get the Model King releases, man what a backwater!!
Here you go doc. http://cgi.ebay.com/1-25-ORANGE-CRA...oryZ1190QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I'd really like to see the coupe come back. There are so many ways I could build it (aside from what I've got going on already). They are still fairly affordable on eBay, but it'd be nice to walk into Hobby Lobby and come out with 3 or 4 of them.
Thanks, but its still out of my price range right now. Yeah seeing it at the same price as any other kit would be great!! Thats the first Orange Crate Ive seen on e-bay Oz in quite a few years!
Hey Guys, been a while since any updates from me! . Here are a couple that i have been working on for a while. The first is something that started out as a model a cowl. The rest is completly made up from bits, ranging from 69 mustangs to 49 fords! haha From this: To this: (excuse the ****ty photo!) Obviously not everyones style of car, but sure was fun building something totally from your imagination! The Next is a 34 five window coupe, Really into the early sixties styled show rods (before they went crazy). This one is nearly finished, plans include a white roof insert, white upholstery, more chrome, not sure on headlight placement yet. Finally, this is something i have been working on for a while now. Unfortunatly lots of things kept getting in the way halting progress but it is now nearly done.
No, any thing sent to me (With my name) will be re-directed for 6 months after I move to my new address. Thanks for checking though, good to have mates out there!! Thanks, Doc.
The Jalopy Journal
