I recently acquired a Model T, but I’m not entirely sure of its exact year. While I’m grateful to have Trevor’s expertise in sharing this project, I have numerous questions. For instance, I’m trying to figure out how to convert the distributor to make it easier to service the car. Additionally, I’m curious about any specific details or recommendations. My goal for the project is something drivable and classically tasteful. My main goal is something of the lines of this, I am uncertain about where to commence.
Lol... Saul is new to the forum thing. He will adapt. We think the car is an August of 1923 going off the engine number. In trying to get it steamed up we found all but one of the ignition coils is toast. Rather than rebuild them he is thinking about converting to a distributor for drivability, since it looks like it would cost about the same. There probably aren't a lot of T engined gow jobs running around but he would appreciate advice from anyone who has done it (is there a specific kit that is best or one to avoid?) The car will probably get a Z head if the bottom end seems healthy. He would like it to more or less keep up with traffic around town, so wheel brakes are gonna be necessary. Also, we need to lower this thing... pronto. And find a body.
Hang in there Saulman, great group of people here. I’ve gotten tremendous support and feedback on my project. I’m sure you’ll get the same support. Just remember, it’s not personal, they are all the trying to get a laugh out of you
Not many major changes during the “black car” period, but the “high” firewall and radiator along with the crowned fenders suggest ‘23-‘25. Most are made up from parts anyway, so call it whatever you want. Head over to the Snyder’s website and start scrolling thru what’s available, you will find distributors and more
Thanks. I've never known the differences within this generation, that helps a lot. We got a hood with the car but no radiator shell and no sides for the body. But what's there, including the turtle deck is in really great shape.
If you have ever driven a model T running on magneto you would not be looking for a distributor. Originally, with original switch in the dash, you start on battery, once running switch to mag. The engine immediately smooths out and gains RPM. Magneto spark is hot, thats why racers used it for decades. Its also cool that the coil box is inside the cab, so you can hear the coils clicking. if you have a weak cylinder, from the drivers seat, while driving down the road, you can pull the cover off and short out one coil at a time to determine which cylinder is weak. Also, with out a magneto system, you will never get a "free start"....that is, simply turn on the ignition of a dead motor, and often there is still a charge of gas in one cylinder and the motor starts with out cranking. Its better than sex. Join a local model T club, there are lots of old folks there dying to rebuild your coils and tune them on on their machine, you will be glad you did.
I’m glad there’s help as well I can’t wait to see where it goes I feel like it’s gonna be a lot of fun.
Model T's are a lot of fun, lots a bang for your buck. I suggest you hang out at the Model T Ford Club Of America, (MTFCA) , web site, its quite active over there and lots of folks willing to help with any questions
I can't find the thread from the guy with the white model T from the UK, really neat car. Thought it might be a good attachment to this thread. Anyone?
Google up "north west speedsters, a club in washington state, lots of pics. Also, there was a thread at mtfca , google "speedsters mtfca
Found it, quite an extensive build thread with a lot of photos. Enjoy https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-cream-t.1317906/
Whats up Saul, welcome. Its good to finally get you on the board. My neighbor is a hot rodder & has a couple of T's as well. I traded with him for a 27 roadster, he still has a speedster with a Chevy OHV head mated to the Ford block. Also has a really nice 23 Roadster too. & A blown 32 thats a whole other deal. We'll have to get you & Trevor over here eventually & you can check em out. He's may have some spare parts. He's definetley got plenty of knowledge. Trevor has my #. Welcome to the early Ford club ! Rick
Both his T's are converted to VW distributors. He said he thinks there is a Jeep dizzy that will work as well.
I have some Model T coils I'd give you a good deal on. Here's a Model T body: https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aeromodding-1930s-38-mpg-70-mph-model-t-92.html
Guess I should jump in. I second the "get it running as-is" if it can be done locally and at reasonable cost. In addition to the other sites, Ford Barn has come up also when I've done searches for T stuff. Try to understand the car first, then the mods. Lowering, for instance. Looks like it's spring and then drop axle, but with brake rods and stuff, there are important things to consider when doing this. T's have been modded for a century now, so there is a lot of Do This, Not That knowledge but it's tougher to find than the Call 1-800 route. What year? https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/347675.html?1363348179
Saul's T - what's there - is so solid and straight I'm itching just to get the damn thing going down the road for him. Kinda wish I'd let him claim the Hupp!!! We gotta get fire going one way or another. We don't have any idea if the magneto is any good in the car. To be honest, part of the inclination to convert it to distributor is informed by the fact that both of us are fairly acquainted with points ignition and neither of us know the first damn thing about magnetos. For what it costs to rebuild the coils, just to maybe then not have a good mag anyway and the car still won't run - the $300-400 distributor conversion is pretty tempting. That would make it a lot easier to get this thing going. I know from firsthand experience on those aftermarket Model A mags all you have to do is give the shaft a good spin to find out if it's good! But I'm not sure how to test the T mag with a non-running engine and original mystery wiring. All the tests I can find (with admittedly brief research) involve the assumption that the engine was already ready to run otherwise. Our rusted and stuck coils won't work for us so we can't test for spark conventionally.
this site has a page of parts places, https://www.fordmodelt.net/model-t-parts.htm including one in Weatherford. https://modeltranch.com/ I have never dealt with them, but worth a visit!
Just let me know coils would at least get it down the road and driving that be one great step, I’ll send you a pm
Oh dude, I've BEEN there, like - shit, probably before I registered here? I think he had a T RPU listed on FB marketplace and I went to check it out but I was intimidated by the metal. He was super nice about it even though I was obviously an idiot with no idea what I was getting into. Wow! I completely forgot about that.
I agree Sauls T looks pretty darn good, thats why I think you should try to make it run before throwing money at it with modern shit. Points is points. same as a dizzy, clean up the points on the coils. Then, take the timer off the front, wash it out, see that the roller turns ( if it is that type, there are lots of different timer designs) , clean and tighten all 4 contact wires, pack it with a gob of Vaseline, put a battery in and turn on the key to see if the coils buzz. You may have to turn the motor over to get to a "fire" spot for buzzing. If you are having a good day, you could also, after all the above, spin it with the hand crank, switch on MAG, and check spark at the plugs. I'm really not the expert here, thats why I suggest you sign up at the MTFCA and those guys will walk you thru all this in one day Coils are cheap to rebuild if you do it yourself. Again, its all at the MTFCA, but you pull a couple nails, slide the cover off, dig out all the old tar, save it!!!, you will melt it back in when done. then solder in a new orange capacitor from Snyders, install new points, then go to the new model T club you by now have joined and have them set up the point gap for the best performance on their machine. Cost for parts was about 30 bucks per coil last time I bought any. If you want to really be a macho man, then you get a front drive cover for a bosch magneto from the era. That'l only set you back a grand or so!
Look at it like this: A modern car has one coil pak for each cylinder. If one fails, you can still drive home and fix it in your driveway. A Model T, has one coil per cylinder, one fails, you still drive home The distributor you want has one coil, one set of points, one condenser. If any of the 3 items fail, you are stuck on the side of the road. Now days, with all the junk coming from china, condensers are often bad right out of the box when new, points are questionable too when new, and chinese coils fail too. Sauls T looks like all the wiring is intact, it will probably run
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