I've been doing some scheming and calculating around a model T frame and body I found for sale. I was wondering how safe it would be to re-use the original transverse leaf suspension in the back, welded onto a 9 inch Ford housing. I can't imagine it would be safe at 10-20x the original horsepower and 3-6x the original top speed, but I don't know these things. Pictured is the suspension. At this angle you can't see the long links that go forward from the axle.
I have a model T with a 8 in. Ford rear end and the original transverse spring and shackles. It works fine. But you may not need it. Are you going to an open drive line? What engine and transmission are you going use?
The Model T front axle with out brakes is a bigger concern. Honestly, some more real information about what you are trying to build will give us a better idea of how to help you. That ch***is is in really good shape! Someone has done some work to it. Maybe a Gow job or a speedster would be a perfect project using all the good stuff you already have? It would be a shame to cut it all up. You can make a frame and suspension for any hot rod .
I'll be using a 1962 Ford 221 and 3 speed side loader manual transmission. The 221 will be rebuilt, bored over 60, decked to 0 and use .016 copper head gaskets to raise the compression to 10:1 for using big cams. The rear end is a 2.73 or 3.00 9 inch with a posi from probably the 60s
That one is just an example to show the suspension. The one I'm looking at is a little rustier, haha. I don't want to post any pics of it so nobody can decide to buy it before I get there. As far as info goes, I want to make an interesting, peppy car for not a whole ton of money. I havr the front axle issue worked out already, I'll just convert it to use a different front axle that takes chevy spindles.
Ok. You are going to have to do some fabrication work. To use that engine and transmission, you are going to have to split the wishbone. Those are the links you were referring to earlier. They will need to be moved to the frame rails. Have you thought about a flat head v8? Then you wouldn't have to do that. Will the engine make more than a 100 hp? If so, you may have to box the frame and the model t front axle with out brakes may not be stout enough. Most guys moved to a later axle set up. There is also drive shaft fabrication to consider. The torque tube or drive shaft on the original rear end are one unit.
Is it a ford econoline van axle or an after market? You will need to split the wishbone up front too. Or do hair pins.
The front axle I'm looking at is a full kit for like a g***er or something. It comes with arms and stuff to attach on their own and its own transverse leaf spring. Here is a screenshot of it.
I'm hoping to make at least 200 horsepower. Stock this engine made like 145 so I think I could push it that far. I plan to box the frame already. Splitting the wishbone I didn't think about, but I can do it I think
Ok let's back up for a minute. What model t body is it? Can you weld? Do you have a grinder and a welder and some tools? They make kits to split the wish bones. How much money are you willing to spend? You don't have to give an amount. I'm just putting forth the idea that you have two ways to go. You can buy all the parts and ***emble or you can make all the mounts and brackets. It is cheaper but a WHOLE BUNCH MORE WORK. and time 145 hp. Is plenty for a model t. Mine only makes 110 hp. The power to weight ratio on these is great.
If you go this route, make sure you get the right width axle. The Model T frame is very skinny width wise. I have a ford engine in mine too. You have to think about engine and transmission crossmember as well.
I am content with both fabrication and buying stuff premade. I have not only two welders and various small tools but a lathe and mill at my disposal. I'm wanting to spend as little as possible while still doing what I need. The budget is basically the money I save up while I'm building the car. The body and frame is a roadster pickup, minus the bed.
Good! Sounds like you got more stuff than I do. Lol. Remember this is a traditional hot rod web site catering to pre 1965 building style and materials. Please read the forum guidelines and go do an introduction it is polite to do if you haven't done it already?
If you do buy it. I have never regretted buying mine. Please post pics and there are a lot of great people here that will be willing to help you. You will find that building a car from scratch is not easy but it may be one of the most rewarding experiences you will ever have.
We all think that a buggy spring is cool. The @raven runs 10s and lower on an original T ch***is (boxed) with a buggy spring and a 9" rear. he drives it 150+ miles to the track beats on it and drives it home and has done it for years.
I agree. Mines a 8 in. Ford with the buggy spring and a boxed original t frame. I don't think I can bust it. All though I drive much slower than that. Lol
Don’t use any of the stock T wishbones. For the rear build or buy some ladder bars like Pete & Jake make. Make sure to mount the front joints as close to center as possible. Get a P&J catalog and you will learn a ton in their tech section.
Much more appropriate to use an old Ford V8 rear end. A Ford 9” would be more appropriate if you planned on running a modern V8, and needed the extra strength. A lower strength T frame and a high strength 9”rear end don’t look very appropriate together!
For a budget build, buying pre-made parts and sub***emblies is about as expensive as you can go. It's really hard to end up with a cool traditional hotrod by just getting what is easy to find rather than what fits a plan. It takes more time to collect parts but you learn along the way and cool builds, regardless of budget, don't happen by accident. Ford 8" rear, ladder bars, early SBF with big HP plans, prefab front end with a Chevy spindle mod, a model T frame. In the end this could be a real mess. Hate to be that guy but I'd almost bet on it. With your current plan, you will dump everything from your roller except the $75 frame and that will still remain your weakest link. Why insist on Chevy spindles if going with a Ford frame, rear, engine, and trans? A model A frame might be a much better platform to start with - especially on a budget. JMO D
Agree ^^^. ditch everything except the body, and get an A ch***is to build on using both front and rear axles. cheaper too
Use a Model A front axle and 40-48 ford front brakes, gives a vintage loon and a step up from the stock T axle. Looks like you've already split the wishbone, the A axle and spring will fit and you can split the wishbones.
We are not trying to be discouraging, thesethawa, but have seen such builds. The A frame offers more used parts and useable aftermarket stuff. There’s a reason the A has long been a starting point. Your access to tools will still be useful for spacers, motor and body mounts, etc. You will still have plenty to work out but without the handicap of a T frame and random late model suspension parts forced into the mix. Each mod to such components, which are inevitable to jibe, have all been done but would require a deep dive here. Now if you have a T-bucket vision or something let it be known. We know you could do it but - Cheap, Easy, Functional - pick two. I would add in that “The Look” might fall short no matter. Gomez, That’s not his roller shown - just an example. D
Me and another guy can pick up my Model T body and carry it around without much grunt; same goes for the frame. The whole kit and kaboodle without drivetrain is probably less than 500 pounds. Your mill will scoot it along pretty good without much help.
That 's a cool one for sure - maybe the coolest. With the parts list mentioned though I don't think we are headed that direction!
I think he could build a traditional style model T inexpensively if he pays attention and gets encouraged in the right direction. I built this with a minimum of tools in a dirt floor shed with junkyard parts. 20220717_160214 by chessterd5 posted Jul 17, 2022 at 8:24 PM
I like 9 inch Ford rear axles as much as anyone,but they rob more hp than say a 8 inch.On a 400 hp engine that may not matter,but a 221 sbf may not have a lot to donate to parasitic lose.Power is robbed just to spin the flywheel ,drive shaft,rear end. The 8 inch is lighter in weight,and looks too which in a light open wheeled car may look better.Just a thought. Good torque control like the Pete,and Jakes kit,and the T spring will work great.
If I had a choice I would use an 8”. Had one in my high school car and thrashed it daily. The rear end was the least of my worries. More on topic would be a banjo but that’s just preference. I think traditional hot rods look best with a banjo rear. Plus less need for cobbled adaptation. An A spring won’t fit into the T rear crossmember. The T spring is great and will fit in an A frame but would still have to be adapted to the 8” which is more work and $$. Then still have to locate that rear with adapted/fabricated/purchased parts. Next creep due to ease is coil overs or parallel springs and round tubular mounts. Risk is Frankencar status. Consider with a transverse spring(from your pic) , center pivot front end and a T frame it would be nice and twisty. Can be done. Just trying to suggest a path to cheaper and quicker success based on known formulas.
I agree that a different rear end would be better, but I already have a load of 9 inch stuff. My dad, brother and I take the center sections every time we go to one of the bucket sales at junk yards. Whole axle sets if it isn't the bucket sale.
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