I know there are many ways to go. I’m just looking to get a suspension that will accommodate a 5.0L motor, 5speed box and rear end, modern wheels, tires, and brakes. Basically, get a modern driver that still looks like a 1940 Ford pickup but with a slightly lower stance and wheels/tires. Preferably, a kit. Not something I have to do a lot of fabricating on. But, I am a moderately good welder, teachable and not opposed to cutting the old frame if necessary. Any paths to this goal jump out? Thanks, in advance. S
Well the path you are taking won't be "Traditional" except the body and advice people will give you will fall into the "off topic" area. So I'm moving this to Off Topic area. Moderator
Gosh! The 40 suspension set up is what so traditional. You will be advised to subframe your car but, it will never be the same again.
I had the privilege of driving a buddy's '40 sedan delivery with a dropped axle, disc brakes and split wishbone. It was 350,350 with a 9" on coilovers. It drove and handled great. @Weedburner 40 has all the suspension kits you need.
Well, I'll throw my .02 worth in here... Ignoring the whole 'traditional' thing, there's no reason the front beam axle will preclude installing a SBF motor. Use a rear sump pan (which you'll need in any case) and it's in. This has been done hundreds if not thousands of times, the parts and expertise is out there (and here). The only thing you'll give up IMO is a bit of ride quality because of the higher unsprung weight compared to the ubiquitous Mustang 2 conversions offered by the aftermarket. Less work, and probably less overall cost at the end of the day depending on your scrounging ability. As to the M2, I have one in my avatar (installed by a PO) and being perfectly honest, I'm not impressed. Ford sourced the M2 off the Pinto, and the aftermarket 'reengineered' it so now it's used in everything. I don't hate it, but don't consider it as much of an upgrade. It does have a few traits I don't care for, but by and large it's OK. The one plus is if you want to go really low, it's easier to get there. Other suspension swaps? There's very little aftermarket support outside of the M2, and in any case most newer suspensions that can still be easily found are too wide for the early cars. There is one possible exception however; Jaguar. And no, parts aren't expensive, rebuild costs are in line with more 'common' suspensions, and Jaguar built them nearly unchanged from '68 to '96 (the matching IRS dates all the way back to '61). The parts well is deep. Both ends come on removable subframes, so less fabrication is needed. While Jags definitely have their faults (I've owned multiple Jags), the suspensions aren't one of them. They actually supplied them to other car makers including Aston Martin and AC Cobras. The rear axle uses a British copy of the Dana 44, so strength isn't an issue and all XJS came standard with posi. Donor cars are all Series 1 through 3 XJ sedans and all XJS coupes and convertibles. The XJ40 won't work, although those can supply a better rear disc setup for the IRS. Wheel bolt pattern is the standard GM 4.75"-on-5. Wiring/motor issues is what usually kills these, they can generally be bought cheaply (the last one I got for free as a stripped hulk but the suspension was still all there), but even if you go to a Jaguar dismantler I've seen both ends go out the door for $1K. The one fly in the ointment may be track width; depending on the wheels/tires used it can be as narrow as 66", most come in at about 68", outside-of tire-to outside-of-tire. That may be too wide for a '40. But if very good handling, excellent ride quality and disc brakes are must-haves, this will give you by far the best bang for your bucks. If I ever get caught up, both ends are going under my avatar... Anyway, food for thought. Good luck!
Almost all aftermarket ifs's have a weld in or bolt in crossmember such as the Chassis Engineering version if it's still available. If that's more than you want, I would look at a frame trade such as any of the modern builds are using. Morrison, etc.
Havin just finished "fixing" a 39 Deluxe coupe with an axle and SBF, if you insist on using a SBF, do yourself a favor and go to an aftermarket IFS, such as our unit. You will be able to move the engine approximately 3" forward of where it will sit with an axle in it. Plus, if you use the short waterpump conversion, you should be able to get in without modifying the firewall. Feel free to contact me for any help I can offer.
No matter what direction you end up going, be aware that you are putting a suspension under a vehicle that it was not designed for. Therefore, in order to truly optimize the ride and handling characteristics, you will need to tune the suspension. This means adjusting the dampening profile of the shocks and changing spring rates and motion ratios as needed to dial it in.
Also, should you decide to put an IFS in, box the frame. It will make a big difference in how the IFS works and how solid the car feels. When a chassis twists, it is basically an undamped spring. This makes it hard to tune and doesn't allow the suspension components to work as designed. I boxed the frame on my 49 Buick, did not on my 41 Plymouth. The Plymouth works OK but the Buick is head and shoulders better.
Whatever you do, don't do a frame swap. Flared fenders covering positive offset wheels is not cool. @Weedburner 40 has a good kit to IFS the front end, Heidts makes a nice IFS kit as well. A lot of options out there without tearing a used mustang apart and using 50 year old conversion parts. I like your idea of SBF and a 5 gear. How about a picture of what you have? I get bored without pictures.
funny comments here. how long has MII been a thing here in HotRod world and people still talk about Pinto's as if the design of the MII aftermarket suspension is somehow flawed because of its origins. Pintos and Mustangs have the motor on top of the "axle" centerline. our old relics the motor is behind that centerline. 49-54 Chevrolets use 4 cylinder springs. the Fatman Fab MII I have the only actual pinto/mustang parts are the rack, spindles and ball joints. if there were flaws in the aftermarket MII suspension we would all be aware of it by now.
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