That makes it a '62-63. While the generator survived into '64, the timing cover fill didn't... There was a surprising number of people who mistook the 221 for it larger brothers. Years ago a local kid was complaining to me how his '289 '62 Fairlane' literally wouldn't run after he installed a 2-4V intake on it... It was a 221.
The factories hooked those to a vacuum source below the throttle blades, some to the carb, some used a dedicated spacer under the carb. In your case, you need a hose connection into the plenum because of the dual carbs. You'll have to readjust them.
Yes there is a small 1/4" port on each carb. The hose for the PVC valve is 7/16" should i connect both carbs with a tee fitting to get about the same volume that the PVC is looking for?
Your pcv should be 3/8" I'd hose , you might be able to drill & tap for 1/4" npt in the manifold f!ange directly below the port in the picture . You could also. With an adapter ,run off the pictured port , as long as its below the throttle plates .
I know it’s probably too much trouble now but in your case I would drill and tap a 3/8” hole between the carbs. In stall a 90* fitting and a V100 PCV valve (Standard for early and mid 60’s Fords and Chevrolets) the run the hose to the closed valve cover with a baffle. Leave the other side alone. The V100 is threaded and the threads go to the intake. Look at 64-65 Chev 283-327’s and 62-64 Ford Y-blocks. Very efficient and work great.
I don't think those ports will offer enough air flow for the PCV to work properly, particularly if manifold vacuum is down due to a large cam, etc. Here's a pic of a typical Ford PCV spacer, this will give you an idea of what's needed... Those aren't small notches, showing how much air volume is needed. In a way, you're lucky with having a single-plane intake; a vacuum source anywhere in the plenum downstream from the carbs will work fine. It's more work, but I'd pull the top half of the intake off and drill/tap the plenum for a 3/8" NPT nipple and connect there. Locate it at the back/underside, it'll almost disappear...
We never did get any cam spec's or vacuum reading's from your combo, so maybe you don't have a good enough vacuum signal for a PCV valve to work correctly. You might be better off with a vacuum restriction fitting like the 327/365 Vette's had, and rejet for the small vacuum leak that it creates.(if at all) A PCV valve is nothing more than a controlled vacuum leak anyway, and all you're looking to do is keep a breeze going through the crankcase. If you have low vacuum this might be a better option. The restrictor fitting's had a .090" orifice in them; 1/8" pipe thread on one side and 3/8" hose on the other.
Amen! I found some rust on rocker arms when I did first valve adjustment, was a bit puzzled until I found some previous pictures of the odometer from past years from previous owners. The engine only had 200 miles on it in previous 3 years and I suspect that occurred when last PO drove it home over 3 state lines. IOW- drive that thing! Joe
"You shore gotta purty mow-der!" PCV is the answer and.........regular extra-cise with all 8 barrels in the full open position! I hope it has a full-on snotty idling camshaft too! 6sally6
By engineering specs the vacuum at idle on a closed/ sealed engine with PCV system should be between 1-3 inches of vacuum. Easy to test thru the dipstick tube and covering the rocker cover vent. The 365hp 327 was the only one I ever knew that used an orifice in a hose. Like said above a controlled leak of blowby vapor.
Point taken. I could drill and tap a 3/8" hole in the back side of the top plenum . At this time i will install a PCV and plug into the two small ports under the carbs and see if this problem goes away. If see this again i will tap into the plenum.
I don't have the specs on the cam. The original builder of this car told me he purchased the 289 in 1965 new as a crate motor from ford and only used it as a show car. When i took the engine apart i checked the main bearings and they were very clean so i left the short block alone. I will put a vacuum on the engine and get a reading.
Notice the port on the side of the plenum , notice also the area is thicker to withstand a fitting being tightened in to it , the plenum walls are very thin.
Careful what you wish for... The '62-65 timing covers used a different water pump that's only available with a passenger-side inlet. They also had a design flaw that Ford corrected with the '66-up design. The later water pumps have a sheetmetal plate that seals the back of the pump, the early ones used the timing cover as the back wall of the pump. That wall is known to corrode, sometimes to the point of dumping coolant into the oil pan.
That won't work very well because you won't have enough volume of air moving. One of those ports is ported vacuum, meaning there is only vacuum on the port when the throttle plates are open. The other is manifold vacuum (what you want), but it is too small to effectively operate the PCV valve. You are probably going to need to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold.
If the small ports at the base of the carbs don't work then i will drill and tap into the rear of the intake
You may want to tig weld a bung to the back of the plenum if the wall is as thin as I would expect it to be.
yeah, if you start and run, no extended real operating temp, you will have this. Blowby consists of a byproduct of combustion ...water from air. PCV will address as mentioned. Normal operation getting oil temp above 212F will force it out. I had a run stand with fresh engine, high humidity region. Started engine 3x times, maybe 15min run time, open breathers. Removed valve covers to adj valves, milky oil on top of covers where condensate formed. Nothing wrong with engine.
Yep, Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion, humidity doesn't have that much to do with it as far as that goes, there's no way around it. The correct thermostat temperature rating will help a lot to minimize crankcase oil contamination.
Humidity has everything to do with it. Condensation is formed as the air temperature inside the engine cools down below the dew point. If the engine does not reach sufficient operating temperature to evaporate the water and expel it via the ventilation system, than the water begins to build up. The higher the humidity, the faster the water will collect.
No, the point is water vapor is produced by the combustion process of the fuel and oxygen, without regard to the humidity. It's still going to be problem even in Utah or Arizona. The classic example is the old duffer who drives his car 1/2 mile every morning for coffee, and then complains about his muffler and exhaust system rotting out.
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