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COE Mold for Fiberglass part??

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by wetskier2000, Oct 25, 2017.

  1. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Hardware cloth
    Corvette_Mold_HardwareCloth.jpg
     
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  2. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Third layer. I think that's all, but I'm not really sure what thickness I should be looking for. I'd guess it's at least 3/8 or 1/2 now.

    I hope to put some fibergl*** in this thing this weekend at the same time I am reconnecting the two FG halves of the sleeper roof.

    Corvette_FG_TEST_PANEL_3rd_coat.jpg
     
  3. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    Didn't make it this far over the weekend with all the winterizing work. (why do I live in New England?).
    Hope to give it a try this week. Any helpful hints on getting the mold off in 1 piece?
     
  4. Drive a small wedge between plug and part, them blast the seam with an airhose.
     
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  5. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    air between the form and the piece worked perfectly. It's out. The tape on the piece for shrinkage and protection, on the other hand, not so much. It left lines in the form that were not there before mudding. I put the tape on ****ed up pretty well to the previous course, but I think the moisture from the mud made it curl. Not sure how well mud will wash off the piece if I apply it directly.
    VetteMoldOpen1.jpg VetteMoldOpen2.jpg
     
  6. JOYFLEA
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 2,056

    JOYFLEA
    Member

    Sand the ridges and paint . If you have to big of a Mark use body putty. I make little molds out of body putty with gl*** in and hammer metal into last for a while . Cheap and fast hammer form . For FG spray a release agent first . I don’t do much FG work , did a bunch when I worked for a place that made FG fuel tanks for hueys . Good luck , on a side not going into town to PO today , let you know .
     
  7. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    I'd have to fill cuz the lines left in the mold are divots (female). I question how well I'd be able to fill and sand the actual fender extension molds without making them different than the intended shape.
    I also wonder how much shrinkage happens if the thing is fully dried while still on the piece. I think I'll test doing a small mold on the Vette piece directly without tape. Maybe wax the piece first.

    I'm surprised a drywall mud form can stand up to hammering for a hammer form.
     
  8. JOYFLEA
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 2,056

    JOYFLEA
    Member

    Not drywall mud but fibergl*** stranded bondo . The post office called and said my package is in . Will go get it in morn .
    Blue
     
  9. wetskier2000
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 1,849

    wetskier2000
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NH

    When you make these molds with bondo, you put a release agent on the piece first? Have those pieces been steel and fibergl***?
     
  10. Yes on the release agent. Three coats of carnubera wax followed by PVA is the recommendation. Steel or fibergl*** makes no difference, apply this to anything you don't want the Bondo permanently stuck to.
     
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  11. JOYFLEA
    Joined: Jan 22, 2013
    Posts: 2,056

    JOYFLEA
    Member

    I use seran wrap .
     

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