Ive been trying to get around to starting this thread for a bit now...... I pretty much will go through a bone stock torque flight 727 for big blocks and turn it into a real preformer that will handle a ton of torque. Will show how to modify the internals, valve body, and servos. you can go the way i do or you can purchase the necessary components to convert standard 727 to hemi or sixpack configuration, this also used by chrysler during the trans am program for the t/a & aar 340-6 727 torqueflites. consists of 1964-1970 factory hemi wide front clutch drum 5 clutch discs, special snap ring to secure front clutch spring retainer, relined hemi/ 440-6 2 ½" wide kickdown band second gear, 5.0:1 hemi kickdown band apply lever, special 20 lb. kickdown servo inner release spring, special factory hemi rear clutch drum to clear the wider front drum and a new bronze thrust washer no. 03 position which installs between the input shaft and output shaft. conversion also requires a 1970 or later front pump housing. either way you'll get a tough tranny....
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this will cover a build that i did a while back before i left for deployment, basicly this is a TCI Master rebuild kit, with the addition of kolene steels & Alto Red clutches and a kevlar front band, 5.0:1 kickdown lever. i will cover how to add more clutch stack ups in the front and rear drums and whats needed to make it work. how to modify the valve body to full manual shift capabilities and how to make the front and rear servos hit harder for firmer shifts. -to start with dissasembly remove your oil pan, disconect your park rod and remove your valve body and set the assy asside, -next pull the front pump, now this can be a bit tricky there are two threaded holes at the 3 & 9 oclock positions, use two of the pump housing bolts and thread them in the holes and once they bottom out they will push the pump out of the case. -then pull all the guts out through the front. this includes the input shaft & front clutch drum, front planetary assy and the rear clutch drum and the rear planetary assy held in by a snap ring, be really careful not to damage any of the thrust bearings and composite thrust washers, basic dissasembly done......
before i begin with this segment i jsut want to say that this portion of adding more frictions is only for race trannys, for stock & mild engines omit this and just use upraded frictions (Alto reds & Kolene steels) with a 5.0:1 kickdown lever & kevlar front band, with the shift kit and you'll be happy with the results. still here?.....once you have the tranny guts pulled out of the case you can start modifying the front and rear clutch drums. the stock front drum has four and the rear three, i will show you how to shoe horn five into each. first dissasemble the front drum, once you have the old clutchs and steels out, inspect the clutch basket for excessive wear from the old steels, then inspect the bearing in the center of the drum for wear patterns and excessive wear marks. if its worn replace it with one from the kit using an arbor press, i use home made tooling i made out of aluminum on a lathe. next and this can get a little tricky but your measuring the new stack ups and cutting the difference off the retention plate. i acomplish this by measuring from the piston in the drum up to the retaining ring groove, then i measure the new clutch & steel, add 0.001 oil clearance for eash new stack and total them up to include the extra ones. then subtract the new friction stackup from the drum measurement and take difference from the thickness off the retention plate. your going to need a liquid cooled surface grinder with a magnetic base but when your done cutting them down they will shine like mirrors. once you have the retention plates cut down, assemble with the new and extra friction stackups and thats it. i would give you measurements but the factory was not that accurate the first time fourty years ago and they are all a little different but you should'nt have to take more than 0.060-0.080 off. now again this really will not make a difference on a stock motor and you wont even notice a difference with the extra clutchs unless your making more that 500 HP, i do this for race trannys only, simply put the more surface area in the clutch drums, the more torque they will hold and less likely to slip. next ill cover valve body shift kit install and modifying the servos....
next will modify the front and rear servos and replace the kickdown lever, most stock trannys came with the 3.8:1 or the 4.2:1 kickdown levers depending on what year and vehicle the tranny came out of. i prefer to use the 5.0:1 lever that was used on sixpack and hemi cars. now start by removing the plug in the front of the case to remove the front serov kickdown lever, once the plug is out remove the lever pivot rod and the lever will drop right out, reinstall the 5.0:1 lever and plug. next remove the snap ring holding in the front servo valve in place and pull the valve and discard the old spring and seal ring, reinstall the front servo in its bore with the new heavy duty spring and seal ring supplied with the kit. now moving to the rear servo, remove the snap ring and pull the valve out and discard the old spring, then dissasemble the the valve and add the two shim washers to increase the spring rate to 20lbs and reinstall the servo valve with the new seal ring and heavier spring in its bore. and thats it as for modifying the servos this will help out alot with firming the shifts up and sliping less durring shifts.
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