I’ve asked on some Mopar sites and nobody has really helped me out. This is my 1st 4 speed conversion. I did the 360 swap and 4 speed. A standard a833. I used all stock parts including the factory bell. I went with a RAM Borg and Beck pressure plate and their street disc. I have the air gap at around .070” and freeplay is around 1” or so on the pedal. I have the return spring on the fork and it’s pulling the throw out bearing back about 1/4”. When I get over 2,000 rpms the freeplay is a bit stiffer. When it comes down to 2,000 rpms the freeplay goes back to normal. Nothing is binding up, but that freeplay tells me something is touching that throwout bearing 2,000 and up. With only 300 miles on a new motor, clutch, trans etc... something’s off. I get a bit of normal engine harmonics back through the clutch pedal as well. I can hear the throwout bearing or something sounding like a squeaky belt now. What’s going on here? I feel that I have adequate tolerances for everything. Why is the freeeplay tension changing with RPM? I’ve eliminated engine torque binding the Z bar up by neutral at a steady 3000 rpms and it feels the same. So it doesn’t even have to be in gear or even moving to feel this. I’m at a loss. Anybody? Is this new RAM clutch messed up somehow? Seems like freeplay tension shouldn’t change with rpms. It’s the same freeplay travel, just stiffer. Again indicating the 3 fingers are moving back into the TO bearing. Thanks guys.
Sounds like the pressure plate has centrifugal assist, causes the clutch grab harder as rpm increases. I'd call the support line for the clutch manufacturer.
Google is your buddy, their description says the exact same thing I wrote a moment a go. http://www.jegs.com/i/RAM-Clutches/798/403/10002/-1
I've had 2 throw out bearings fail right after I got my coupe together. Both bearings were part of new clutch kits. Both sounded and acted just like yours. The first one the bearing itself failed, when I pulled it out, you could barely turn the bearing. This bearing failure was when the car had about 500 miles on it. Since it was a kit, I had to replace everything. The parts house handed me a replacement clutch and I had to return the entire replaced kit. I suspect they wanted to verify I didn't do anything wrong. The second bearing failure was the bracket the bearing was attached to broke an ear off! That bearing holder was plastic, and it broke. This bearing failed with about 1,000 miles on it. When I took the bearing in and showed the parts house the problem, they gave me a 3rd kit, but didn't require me to return the remaining parts from the old clutch. This clutch has about 40,000 miles and 6 years on it. New parts are not as good as they used to be. Gene
So do they expect me to run 4” or pedal free play and have 1” between the throwout bearing and the fingers? Not being a jerk, just want to know how they expect that to even work in any situation. I’ve never heard of fingers coming back towards the TO bearing.
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