Purchased a 1948 Dodge 2 weeks ago and wanting to explore my options, should it turn out the flat 6 engine, trans or rear axle is in need of major repairs or replacement. Seen 318s, 360s, even larger Mopar engines being suggested as good V8 swap candidate for these cars, even Chevy 350s, but no mention of using a Ford V8. Why is that? They would all require about the same amount of fab work to install, (unless I'm missing something). The reason I'm asking is because I have a newly rebuilt 70 model 302 and C4 trans. I'm a firm believer in using what you have on instead of spending cash to get what others have. Any V8 upgrade is going to make it non stock car, (Ford, Chevy, even Mopar, right?). If it turns out that a V8 is the way to go from a cash standpoint, I plan to use what I have as I know it's in good condition! Seeking your feedback on this idea, ( be it positive or negative).
I think it has to do with the oil pan sump. It is usually in the front on a Ford and the rear on a Chevy and Mopar. I think an early bronco pan is a rear sump, and that may work. You will need the ***ociated pick up tube and screen. Like I said, I think. The experts on here will know for sure
The Ford 302 has three pans from the factory available for it front 60s, double sump fox body and rear pickup. You should be able to find something that works.
Ignore those people who insist upon using a Mopar engine. Your car doesn't recognize the difference anyhow.
I like to swap what fits well, probably the opposite of using what is on hand. I put a 302/c-4 in my ‘53 Dodge truck because the long/narrow Ford engine is well suited for the 6 cylinder engine compartment. The only drawback was the criticism from MoPar diehards.
Hotrod 1948 is on target. with stock front clip you need a rear sump pan. Broncos had them, check Bronco specialty suppliers.. fairly sure the double sump ones won't work. 318/360s out of Vans & Pick Ups are rear sump if you decide to go Mopar..
Suggest you keep the flathead six if possible. They are rugged and long lived, easy to rebuild and parts are available cheap. They are not an easy car to swap a V8 into because of steering interference and other problems connected with being designed for a narrow six cylinder. They will tell you to go all Mopar but a Chevy V8 fits better and easier. Don't know about the Ford, I believe they are a fairly narrow engine, if the starter and exhaust manifold do not hit the steering and you can find a suitable oil pan it should work ok. With the Mopar A engine you have to offset the engine an inch and a half or 2 inches to the right and use a mini starter. Use the Ford engine and trans and you will have to swap the rear axle too. Your car has the hand brake on the transmission, change the trans and you have no hand brake unless you swap rear brakes and you might as well change the whole rear axle. Fords use the same wheel bolt pattern as Mopar and the same wheels will fit.
To be brutally honest. If you are worried about cash, sale that nice old Plymouth (even money or at a loss) and you'll be ahead in the long run. To go to a V8 means changing everything and I mean everything. Rear axle Brakes which means doing something with the fronts Wheels wiring Mounts work to the donor engine and transmission driveshaft it just goes on and on. For that car, just fix it or send it down the road. It is what it is and what it is ain't bad.
Go 4 it. Get correct pick up and pan. 1941 to 54 Mopar products pluses, IFS far ahead of the compe***ion, stock dual WC drums up front swap to disc $500. Rear ends are super tough, gear ratios from. 3.21 to 4.30 yours is most likely 3.73 or 3.91. These diffs are like the Mopar 8 3/4 with a 3rd member. Or swap in Cherokee, Explorer, Mopar 8 1/4. Engine to be mounted offset 1.5 to 2 inches to right to clear steering, no big deal as ma Mopar did this with many future V8 cars. Lots of underhood front of engine clearance. Swap in all from donor engine trans diff and driveshaft. The front suspension is more than enough for 302 and C4. Modern 302 and C4 a helluva a lot lighter than 230 flattie with fluid drive coupler and trans. Other things to consider but these are the big items.. Good luck whichever way you go.
If you are going to pull out the 6 to rebuild it or replace it just go ahead and take a weekend and pull it out, bolt the ford engine to the c4 trans and lower them into the car and just look it over. It shouldnt take long to tell whats gonna be in the way and what your gonna have to change or fab up. Im a use what you got man myself! Love the idea you have goin! Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for the replies! I have planned to wait and see how the stock drive train holds up. Just wanted some input on my "possible", back up plan.Lots of goof info from you all. Some I knew, some got me thinking! I know that in the end, it's my call. Vehicle, although old, is still, new to me. So we'll see!
Suggest you do a compression test and check the oil pressure. Compression, ideally 120PSI but 90 -100 enough to be going along with. No or low compression probably just a stuck valve if the car has been out of commission. Oil pressure 30PSI @ 30MPH hot. If it p***es these tests and runs without knocks or bangs it is probably ok. An oil change and tuneup can't hurt. I have fired up old Mopar sixes that have been off the road for up to 30 years that came back to life with a little work and some gentle driving.
Just an FYI, if someone hasn't already said it, all '72 and up Dodge pick-up's had rear sump pans. Big or small block. And 360 pans will not fit 318's or 340's. The front and rear rubber seals are a larger size on the 360. Gene.
Well to start with if its a hot rod or a custom it should not sound stock. I got an idea that someone restores those but we don't. The Ford V8 will fit, you will probably need to source a truck pan (rear sump) and pickup. Most of us don't know that you can do that. The MOPAR option comes from the brand conscious guys and the SBC comes from us guys that are cheap *******s. Ford motors are a little more pricey to build, but if its built why not use it? Like I said you will probably want to source a truck pan.
As said, any V8 will need a rear sump oil pan. The front cross member is in front of the motor, but the steering runs behind the cross member and will be under the front of the motor. You change the motor, you will be changing the trans as well. If you change the trans, you loose the original emergency brake which was located on the trans tail stock. If you want or need an e brake, you are farther ahead to change the rear axle as well. Changing to disc brakes is easily doable. The master cylinder under the floor is bolted to the frame and may cause issues. A firewall mounted master can crowd the V8 and adds extra fabrication. If you want or need power steering, that is a pretty big challenge. Adding a power rack & pinion requires replacing everything in the steering system. An electric power steering is another possibility, but a lot of work. Possibly finding a power steering box that can be installed may be another possibility. Flathead 6 motor parts are pretty easy to find and are pretty cheap (as engine parts go). One in good shape will pull the car along pretty good. You will appreciate that 3:70 something rear gear when you leave the stop light, but you (and the flathead) won't like it well at 65 mph. An OD is very helpful on the highway. If your car has the fluid drive trans, the flathead becomes pretty powerless. Which ever drive train you go with, move the upper shock mount on the front shocks from the upper control arm to the frame, and if you don't have a front sway bay, add one for a CJ Jeep. Both will improve the handling to feel more like a modern vehicle. Gene
This is backwards, the 318/340s have a larger rear main and pan seal. 360 is the smaller one. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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