hey von.. i use 3m spray tack to hold them gaskets in palce and black rtv on the ends.i just spray the 3m on both sides of the gasket. as far as the gasket numbers not real sure..
Just around the water ports and on the end tabs on both sides,not too much,you dont want it to squish out.let it set on the heads for a while and apply it to the intake side.I use the permatex black that comes in a cheeze whiz looking canister,it lays down easy and is really high temp quality shit,I know alot of mechanics who use it also.Just some advice from this old parts counterman here.Speaking of intakes for a 260-302 I jsut picked up a super cherry 1966 cast iron 4 bbl intake from a 289,and a brand new completely professionaly rebuilt Autolite 4100 4 bbl carb,its the one off the 390's the 600 CFM,I mean it this intake is cherry all the gaset surface have been cleaned as well as the carb base.They dont get much better.Let me know if you can use it,I sold the 64 so I dont need it now!! hahaha!!
Dont put any on the intake gasket. Maybe a little around the water ports if you want. I dont use the cork endrail gaskets. Just build up a bit of silicone RTV. I'm trying out a product by Permatex called "The Right Stuff" - my machinist swears by it. Little more spendy than RTV though. The head gaskets create little tabs that will hold the intake gaskets in place. The 1250 gaskets are made to fit mulitple water outlets. Fit it to your heads and intake and you'll see. Trim the right areas so that the gasket wont hamper the water flow. The instructons mention this. Make sure the intake fits good. Didnt realize my Weiand was drilled wrong the first time around. When you tightened it it cocked the intake to two corners. Filed out the appropriate holes and now it fits fine. Make sure not to get any coolent or other crap in the motor when you change intakes. I got a little coolent in there once. then I realized that oil floats in water. So I cracked the oil drain plug, and the small amount of water dribbled out.
Did you mean "Assumption is the Mother of all Fuck-ups!"???? That was from Under Seige 2, Dark Territory! Small block Fords are easy...notice them vertical intake bolts? I got four long bolts with the heads cut off...I put one at each corner to serve as alignment studs to hold the gaskets in place on the head and help me position the intake down securely without upsetting the gaskets! Put the rest of your bolts in, remove the four studs and install those bolts...torque to spec in the suggested sequence! As for sealer...I used to coat all my gaskets with that goopy black brush-on Permatex stuff...works great, but comes back to bite ya in the ass when and if you ever take it apart...makes clean-up of the surfaces again a real motherfucker! Now, I smear a LITTLE BIT of blue or black RTV around the coolant passages with my finger...just a very light, tacky coat, and then put a dab at the corners where the end seals meet the intake gaskets. Done!
Not to hi-jack the post,but THE BEST stuff I`ve ever used is YAMABOND #4! Fuel and oil resistant,brush it on and wait about a minute and put the parts on.Remains plyable and no more LEAKS! You can get it a Yamaha dealers,bikes or boat. Try it,you`ll like it....JR
Always used Gaskacinch - yellow goo in a can w/ a brush in the cap and some cool old-school art on the tin label. Sounds like similar yellow gooey products, but Gaskacinch was in all the race engine shops I worked at and it always worked.
whatever you use, if you're swapping out to a different intake do a dry fit first, with all bolts just snug. almost every aftermarket intake I've ever set needed at least one manifold hole filed slightly, or something else altered. also if the head is aluminum make sure all the threads can take the torque. it's a pain in the ass to have to take the manifold back off to fix a hole. Paul
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