My 390 FE in my 1959 Ford Ranchero still tends to over heat. What I have: *1959 Ford Ranchero *Stock HD 4 core radiator (been cleaned/rodded just the other day) *mid 1970's Ford FE engine (not sure of base year), bored 40, heads milled slightly to clean them up, slightly dished pistons, Com cams hydraulic cam, Edelbock manifold w/ edelbrock carb and C-6 ****** What I have done: *Ensured timing is 8-10 at idle (no vacuume), total is 34 at rpm. total is 40 with vacuume and rpm. * Thermostat is 180 and works *engine block/heads are clean w/ ot rust inside *opened up all possible air flow blockage issues in front of radiator and added seal across top of radiator to hood *sealed all openings that would allow air to by-p*** the radiator *95% or more of all air entering the grill is forced through the radiator *I have added a very large electric fan that moves a lot of air. It is rated to 400 HP by the supplier. *I have added a large volume cool flow water pump Issue: even in the fairly cool weather we have been having (70's) she will very slowly heat up. Once cold, it takes forever to reach 180, even in traffic. Maybe 20 minutes of running. Kind of like the thermostat is open, but it works fine. After she reaches 180, even on the open road, she will very very slowly creep up the temp until she reaches about 200. This takes about 1/2 hour on the open road at 70 mph. After she reaches 200 on the open road and you then slow down to traffic speed, she will climb to 220. If you then get back on the open road, it takes her forever to go back to 200. If you stay in traffic after she reaches 200, she will slowly climb to 220 plus. Thoughts??????????????????????????
If I ***ume too much static compression, which it very well could be, is there a way to lower it without changing heads or pistons? Say thicker head gaskets or double head gaskets
Is it really overheating and boiling over? I only ask this because I have had quite a few FE engines and the ones over 10-1 compression tend to run 200-210 without a problem.At first it scared me to death but over the years I came to realize that these engines just run hotter than the sbc types that most people are used to .I think these "experts " are well versed in the most common types of engines out there and dont know poop about THEM OLE FORDS. I changed the head gaskets in a 65 390 from felpros(.040) to mr gasket steel shim(.012) for more compression ...that engine runs 200+ in 80 degree weather.Its still kinda hard to get used to.But it never boils over.Hard starting problem was fixed with an electric fuel pump and wood spacer under the carb.(edel 750).
We had a '59 Ford that heated sometimes, the hot air didn`t seem to be able to get out of the engine compartment fast enough. A quick way to see if this is your problem is to pull the hood release! The hood pops up at the back and pulls the air out, cooling everything down fast. Don`t try this in traffic, though, visibility is a bit limited. If the temp comes down quickly, you may have to open up the insides of the fenders to let the air out. We cut the openings around the A frames bigger and cured the problem.
I worked at a radiator shop for several years, here are some of my findings working in a shop with 30+ years experience. Overheating rolling down the road is typicvally a coolant flow issue. Too fast, or too slow. Some of the possibilities: Water pump may have an eroded impeller so its not moving enough coolant. Plugged radiator (I know you took care of this, just mentioning it) Thermostat not opening all the way. (replace it with a good napa thermostat, the cheap ones are inconsistent and in-accurate) Leaking head gasket putting exhaust g***es into the coolant. (there is a meter for checking this, call a radiator shop and have them test the radiator for combustion gases) Heating in traffic is usually caused by insufficient air flow causing poor heat transfer. Possibilities here: loose fins on the radiator. you should be able to run your hand up and down the core without any of the fins moving. They should be firmly attached to the tubes. (this will also cause heating at speed if it is bad enough) Pay close attention near the edges. Replacing the radiator/ recore is the only solution here. Flex fan. They never work worth a piss. If you have one, replace it. Pooorly functioning fan clutch. A new thermal fan clutch with a large diameter fan works wonders, the old direct drive 4 blade fans are inefficient. Blocked or reduced airflow due to small opening or grill mods. (looks like youve checked this one too) Something as simple as a loose fan belt not keeping the fan at speed. Big blocks tend to have poor air circulation not due to grill area, but due to lack of space for air to get back out from under hood and engine. While there is plenty of space for the air to get in, they lack room for the air to get back out. Louvers in the inner fenders may help this. Lastly, the dreaded head gasket again, doesn't have to be a drastic problem, just enough for it to leak a little combustion g***es. Again, take it by a radiator shop and have them sniff the radiator with a meter for combustion g***es. Hope some of this helps, its just all possibilities. Now for what I would do: Get it tested for head gasket leaks first, if it weeps, none of the rest of this will do any good until its been addressed. If it tests clean, start with a new, name brand t-stat prefferably from napa. Next address the fan. A good thermal fan clutch with a 5+ bladed fan. make sure the hot air has a place to go, t******* inner fenders or louvers work great to get that hot air out. If this doesn't get you going the right direction change out the water pump for a GOOD QUALITY rebuilt or new so you know the impeller isn't ****. Hope this rambling mess helps, Scot
I have a 390FE/C6 in a 55 Ford pickup. One thing that helped me run cooler was to run the vacuum line off of the distributor to the manifold vacuum port on the base of my edelbrock carb (driver side). Before doing this on my 390, I did a little research finding varying opinons. Nevertheless, when I switched mine for port to manifold vacuum my 390FE ran cooler (especially at idle and cruise). Fityfive Some good reading: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=314524&showall=1
Had a similar problem in a 57 Ranchero,352FE.Put in a cross flow aluminum radiator,stock 6 blade fan and shorty headers.You can drive in any ambient temp with it never getting above 200 degrees. ROY.
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