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Technical More sponge than a cake stall...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Leary, Aug 22, 2020.

  1. Leary
    Joined: May 19, 2015
    Posts: 6

    Leary

    So, I am at a compete loss as to where to go from here.

    Situation: 47 dodge coupe. Brake system has been replaced Stock pedal hooked up to what looks to be an eBay style 7"dual diaphragm booster and master cylinder with remote reservoir. All round calipers from OT Aust cars (Front: 1990 VN Commodore, rear from an 1995 EF Falcon).

    Problem: No matter what I do I can't get a firm pedal, let alone lock up the brakes.

    All new rubber hoses. System bled with a vacuum bleeder.

    It feels like air, but there isn't any present. No visible leaks. I continue to suspect air as, every so often, fluid will spurt out of the breather on my small Moon alloy remote fluid reservoir and F#ck up my paint…

    Apart from that, I'm all outta ideas. I did not install the system, but the work appears to be of a pretty decent standard. No random high points for air to get stuck.

    Thoughts?

    Leary
     
  2. onetrickpony
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 838

    onetrickpony
    Member
    from Texas

    Verify the calipers are on the correct sides and that the mounting angle allows all air to be bled out. If that's not the problem, then most likely a bad master cylinder.
     
    scrap metal 48 and X38 like this.
  3. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,262

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Master bench bled?

    Pics help.

    Chris
     
  4. TCTND
    Joined: Dec 27, 2019
    Posts: 703

    TCTND
    Member

    Sounds like the components aren't properly matched. If the master cylinder doesn't have a large enough bore the symptoms are just what you describe. Often you can find the "same" cylinder with a different bore for a simple bolt in fix.
     
  5. Brake bleeding is as much art as it is science....... and sometimes a little bit of witchcraft when dealing with homebrewed brake systems. Somewhere in my travels, I've heard tell about the "Hillbilly Brake Bleed". As the story goes, it was born out of frustration of multiple, failed bleed attempts. It entails pumping the brake pedal 10 or more times as fast as the return spring lets you. I believe the point is to move any bubbles in the fluid column forward into the reservoir faster than they can roll back into any high spots.
    You all know how honest I am, so........ though I've got my fingers crossed, I swear I've never tried this. :rolleyes:
     
  6. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,599

    54vicky
    Member

    sure sounds as if the master needs to be bled properly.only takes a little time and does not cost any money what have you got to lose
     
  7. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 3,677

    panhead_pete
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Being Aussie components have you tried posting on Ozrodders? What brake fluid are you using to damage your paint??
     
  8. I assume the master is under the floor? Residual valves in line?
    Calipers on correct sides with bleeders at the top?
     
    panhead_pete likes this.
  9. Mimilan
    Joined: Jun 13, 2019
    Posts: 1,232

    Mimilan
    Member

    The way to fix it is to fit a VT Commodore master cylinder ,
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2020
    Sandgroper likes this.
  10. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 5,288

    gene-koning
    Member

    Throw that Ebay master with the 7" booster in the trash! I've built 20 cars, the one I had a problem with the brakes on had one of those ebay master cylinder & booster kits with the pedal and bracket assembly. A master cylinder that matched the front disc brakes solved the problem.

    Install a booster and master that match your front disc brakes. Gene
     
    Mimilan and gimpyshotrods like this.
  11. Sandgroper
    Joined: Jan 20, 2019
    Posts: 307

    Sandgroper
    Member

    Got VN front n rear disks. Used VN master and booster. Can stop on a dime.
     

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